Great work Karl. I really like the close up of the wall. I hope that when I get my water tank I will be able to get my wood to look half as good as yours. Would you be able to add a little more how to to your posts. Thanks Randy
Karl, I've seen the tarpaper used in previous builds, but have thought it would be a lot of work, but after seeing how you cut the strips, then the various sections, and knowing the accuracy of the pre-cut wall framing it looks to be an easier process that anticipated. Looking forward to your weathering process.
My kit is enroute...due here no later than Monday...but since I just got deployed to the Carolina's for the "next" landfall of Ian....it will sit unopened for a wee bit....
FEMA is doing the Curly Shuffle with other teams..moving 3 from Florida to SC.....so we are now standing down...and since I go "off call" at midnight....I'm still going to be headed to Florida but for a short work/road trip gig on Monday....I may have it in time to take along and oggle....
I’m very much like MuddyCreekRR, in that I bounce from one kit to another depending on what medium I’m working with at the time. Also on what my brain is suggesting what I do. I have no control over my brain, usually my wife controls that somehow.
I’ve recently been able to continue on with my layout and a lot of that has been marking out where all the wonderful Sierra West kits are going to be placed. Next week, there is going to be a lot of wiring for track power as I just recently purchased a new Digitrax EVOXD set. Then it’s back to constructing the structures.
I thoroughly enjoy following Karl’s construction methods as well as Brett’s great manual techniques.
Well OK, so, back to the build... I spent a couple of days away working on another modelling project (or two) while also thinking about this one. I knew I wanted to adjust my tarpaper a little, the technique is awesome and does just what it should, however, as with any technique there are a thousand variables. So, mine needed a little adjustment, I didnt feel my black paint 'bled' through quite enough, so here's how I adjusted it.
I simply dulled down the contrasting white by carefully using a small brush between the studs and applying a little A/I. I was careful to use a very little on just the paper so that it didn't 'leak' through to the front side, I did several light applications letting it dry in-between. (This could obviously have been easier done with the full sheets before cutting and applying.)
I wasted about an hour trying to get a good pic of the wall, but still couldnt get one. However, you can hopefully see the difference between the right wall which was adjusted and left wall which is not done yet.
So, I guess the purpose of the post is, adjustments can always be made.
80% of the walls will be hidden by details anyway, and it's the interior side, but, there it is. Now I can move on to building the window frames and windows.
Great work Karl. I really like the close up of the wall. I hope that when I get my water tank I will be able to get my wood to look half as good as yours. Would you be able to add a little more how to to your posts. Thanks Randy
I'm really just following the outlined steps from the manual Randy, so that anyone who has the kit, and is building the kit will be able to see my actual results from following closely the detailed explanations in the manual. As always, I'll be more than happy to answer any specific questions you may have.
Karl, I've seen the tarpaper used in previous builds, but have thought it would be a lot of work, but after seeing how you cut the strips, then the various sections, and knowing the accuracy of the pre-cut wall framing it looks to be an easier process that anticipated. Looking forward to your weathering process.
I had the exact same thoughts Tom, but once I read through and got started it was amazing how simple and quick it was, the accuracy of the walls, templates and instructions made it so simple. I think it was about 15-20mins each for the three main walls from start to finish. Really easy.
Glad to hear the tarpaper was so easy to do. I'll have to try it sometime. Would the use of black chalk made the darkening of the tarpaper easier? Instead of worrying about the A/I bleeding through to the outside of the wall would the chalk worked?
Karl, do you have any idea why Brett make individual pieces of "tar paper " between the studs as opposed over the outside of the studs? To me over the outside of the studs would be a less tedious process. Maybe Brett can chime in with his reasoning. Thanks again Randy
Karl, do you have any idea why Brett make individual pieces of "tar paper " between the studs as opposed over the outside of the studs? To me over the outside of the studs would be a less tedious process. Maybe Brett can chime in with his reasoning. Thanks again Randy
i asked that earlier. karl said he didn't know but would check with brett.
I have papered the interior of my walls in a few builds and this is my take on it. The main reason to tar paper after the siding is put on is to ensure the tar paper is solidly glued to the interior siding boards in a thin prototypical appearance. I actually burnish the tar paper down to the boards with an old short bristled paint brush. It's more tedious that way but gives a really nice appearance. the interior boards then actually ghost through the tar paper...unobtainable if the paper is put on first. Sorry to junk up your thread Karl.
As i replied to Kev on the other thread i too originaly had the same thought.
However after personally completing the process i can attest that it is very simple and not a tedious process at all. I discovered that the benefit of being able to ‘seat’ the individual pieces down onto the siding snugly allowing the texture and individual boards definition to show through was worth it.
With Bretts instructions and templates it was a quick, easy and satisfying result that i’m very happy with.
Could it be done the other way as mentioned, sure, but then you run into the problem of the paper sagging and stretching as its wet over the studs with no support, and then gluing the boards to a ‘blind face’ of the framing. Then to get the tar paper to stick and conform to the siding youd have to soak the glue through the paper from the inside to get it to attach to the siding. Any manipulation would further be limited as the ‘sheet’ would be attached to the whole frame reducing manouverability.
As i said, It was a quick, easy and effective process.
Thanks, Ken and Karl. Your explanations make sense. The only other SW kit I have built was the Truck Repair. With the vertical boards, boards showing through the tar paper wasn't that big of a consideration. Again thanks, Randy
I haven't touched this build for a couple of weeks due to my work schedule and some other projects I wanted to get finished up. I know Brett has been working his ass off and getting many of these amazing kits out to a good number of you to enjoy. So I'm looking forward to seeing those build threads appearing soon and following along.
So with that said, I had time this morning to make some progress, I got the window openings framed out and then built the windows themselves. A couple of cracks, one or two broken, but, nothing too dilapidated as it's a working structure.
The manual doesnt say to glue the windows in yet, so, I set them aside until called for later in the manual. And that completed this section of the manual.
The next section of the manual jumps straight into painting and finishing the amazing detail parts.
This is because of the incredible interior detailing that is part of this kit. MANY details need to be finished and installed into the structure as the walls are being 'raised'.
So, for now, as directed I'll be putting the walls safely away and my next steps will be all about those details. I think I'll try to get them prepped and primed tonight, and then tomorrow (with fresh eyes) I'll get to working on paint and finishing them, ready to be installed.
Oh, the picture is crappy because I had to upgrade and install the new Photoshop version to post it. I'll set it up tomorrow. For tonight, it's time to unbox these jewels, put them on sticks or toothpicks and spray some paint on them and get them ready for the next steps tomorrow.
Laser cut windows in SWSM kits are always a joy to work with! Finishing off the walls nicely thus far. Look forward to your wizardry on all the detail parts...
Time to move forward with the castings... two whole boxes of them. I'm going to start with the larger box .
As noted previously box 1 contains two bags full of 3DP details, plus the large resin shelf units, (so you still get that great smell when you open the box).
I put the smaller and the 'un-drillable' items onto the sticks.
Next I drilled out the details that I needed full access to and inserted the 'clipped off' tooth pics. (WEAR A MASK !! )
That was bag 1 from box 1 completed last night. I moved on to bag 2 this morning, to be shown in my next post.
Moving on to bag 2 I continued the process in the same way as last night. Bag 2 again contains a great assortment and quantity of perfect SWSM detail parts.
A closer view.
The variety and number of glass jars and bottles included in the kit.
Not just a few couplers, brake shoes, etc ... but plenty to fill out and detail the scene perfectly.
Such a beautiful sight...
After a busy afternoon inside working on other things it's time to grab a beer and head outside into the sunshine. Along with a couple of cans of primer and all of these beauties to get them ready for the next steps in the process.
I think I'm insane putting that many castings in one kit...
Hah, just joking. I will never skimp on castings to save time or $$. There's nothing worse than buying a kit and finding a teeny, tiny baggie with 5 poorly produced casting inside!
Comments
My love to you and the girls.
I’ve recently been able to continue on with my layout and a lot of that has been marking out where all the wonderful Sierra West kits are going to be placed. Next week, there is going to be a lot of wiring for track power as I just recently purchased a new Digitrax EVOXD set. Then it’s back to constructing the structures.
I thoroughly enjoy following Karl’s construction methods as well as Brett’s great manual techniques.
I spent a couple of days away working on another modelling project (or two) while also thinking about this one.
I knew I wanted to adjust my tarpaper a little, the technique is awesome and does just what it should, however, as with any technique there are a thousand variables.
So, mine needed a little adjustment, I didnt feel my black paint 'bled' through quite enough, so here's how I adjusted it.
I simply dulled down the contrasting white by carefully using a small brush between the studs and applying a little A/I. I was careful to use a very little on just the paper so that it didn't 'leak' through to the front side, I did several light applications letting it dry in-between.
(This could obviously have been easier done with the full sheets before cutting and applying.)
I wasted about an hour trying to get a good pic of the wall, but still couldnt get one.
However, you can hopefully see the difference between the right wall which was adjusted and left wall which is not done yet.
So, I guess the purpose of the post is, adjustments can always be made.
80% of the walls will be hidden by details anyway, and it's the interior side, but, there it is.
Now I can move on to building the window frames and windows.
As always, I'll be more than happy to answer any specific questions you may have.
However after personally completing the process i can attest that it is very simple and not a tedious process at all.
I discovered that the benefit of being able to ‘seat’ the individual pieces down onto the siding snugly allowing the texture and individual boards definition to show through was worth it.
With Bretts instructions and templates it was a quick, easy and satisfying result that i’m very happy with.
Could it be done the other way as mentioned, sure, but then you run into the problem of the paper sagging and stretching as its wet over the studs with no support, and then gluing the boards to a ‘blind face’ of the framing.
Then to get the tar paper to stick and conform to the siding youd have to soak the glue through the paper from the inside to get it to attach to the siding. Any manipulation would further be limited as the ‘sheet’ would be attached to the whole frame reducing manouverability.
As i said, It was a quick, easy and effective process.
“If it aint broke, dont fix it…”
Thanks for your experienced input and great explanation/result of how the technique works.
I know Brett has been working his ass off and getting many of these amazing kits out to a good number of you to enjoy. So I'm looking forward to seeing those build threads appearing soon and following along.
So with that said, I had time this morning to make some progress, I got the window openings framed out and then built the windows themselves. A couple of cracks, one or two broken, but, nothing too dilapidated as it's a working structure.
The manual doesnt say to glue the windows in yet, so, I set them aside until called for later in the manual.
And that completed this section of the manual.
The next section of the manual jumps straight into painting and finishing the amazing detail parts.
This is because of the incredible interior detailing that is part of this kit.
MANY details need to be finished and installed into the structure as the walls are being 'raised'.
So, for now, as directed I'll be putting the walls safely away and my next steps will be all about those details. I think I'll try to get them prepped and primed tonight, and then tomorrow (with fresh eyes) I'll get to working on paint and finishing them, ready to be installed.
For tonight, it's time to unbox these jewels, put them on sticks or toothpicks and spray some paint on them and get them ready for the next steps tomorrow.
Time to move forward with the castings... two whole boxes of them.
I'm going to start with the larger box .
As noted previously box 1 contains two bags full of 3DP details, plus the large resin shelf units, (so you still get that great smell when you open the box).
I put the smaller and the 'un-drillable' items onto the sticks.
Next I drilled out the details that I needed full access to and inserted the 'clipped off' tooth pics. (WEAR A MASK !! )
That was bag 1 from box 1 completed last night.
I moved on to bag 2 this morning, to be shown in my next post.
A closer view.
The variety and number of glass jars and bottles included in the kit.
Not just a few couplers, brake shoes, etc ... but plenty to fill out and detail the scene perfectly.
Such a beautiful sight...
After a busy afternoon inside working on other things it's time to grab a beer and head outside into the sunshine.
Along with a couple of cans of primer and all of these beauties to get them ready for the next steps in the process.
Hah, just joking. I will never skimp on castings to save time or $$. There's nothing worse than buying a kit and finding a teeny, tiny baggie with 5 poorly produced casting inside!