in faux joints....light pressure with a dull #11 blade will look like two joined boards or beams...just don't score too deep. This gives you a chance to brace the joint with bolts and gussets....the
stove pipe at the angle by carving it in with a #11blade, wood floor just visible inside the cracked open door, rear covered area and electrical service connection (viewable in subsequent images). A
The next item to add is the Sawdust Collector. This is a cast metal item that was cleaned up with a combination of #11 blade, file and brass brush mounted in my Proxxon rotary tool.
Thanks Karl....might booger up a board or six....but I don't want to do all that work...then have a pallet, shelf or tank covering it up...I also add some additional graining later with a #11 blade...
Here is a "toothpick" knot under construction. Rather than using a #11 blade to drill a hole, I used a small drill bit in a pin vise to make a small hole first, and then inserted the toothpick. I mixe
I score the paint by running a #11 blade with the grain of the wood. Multiple scores where I want a lot of paint gone, few scores everywhere else. Mist with water and wait 30 seconds or so. Then t
NO clean up! I'm serious, I have not picked up my #11 blade once when detailing these parts. As an example, the various highly detailed bottles come on a sprue attached at the bottom of the bottles.
along the board ends. Previously I would use my #11 blade to split and wether the ends. I didn't care for the result as the blade was so sharp the cracks didn't show up and if I tilted the blade it
I experimented with imparting a wood grain into the laser cut window frames. The material has a grain that goes perpendicular to the long measure of the frame. I went over the frame with my #11 blad
The "peel" is created by scrapping away the paint with a #11 blade. I like it as it is completely controllable. Leave it where you want it, scrape it away where you don't.
NO clean up! I'm serious, I have not picked up my #11 blade once when detailing these parts. As an example, the various highly detailed bottles come on a sprue attached at the bottom of the bottles.
Steve…I think you’re referring to the boiler/welding shop. The stripwood was “primed” with a/c 408.3/408.5/234.3…then drybrushed with Reaper SW Bone White then with a #11 blade and scratch brush
Did you drill out from the bottom or the back? If you drilled out from the back, you can use your #11 blade to scrape away material and enlarge the hole towards the top. Not as easy as drilling, but
Did you drill out from the bottom or the back? If you drilled out from the back, you can use your #11 blade to scrape away material and enlarge the hole towards the top. Not as easy as drilling, but
at the floor pretty hard with the wire brush and #11 blade, going after a rotted appearance, and I like how that turned out. I had to shorten a few boards vertically to get everything to fit, which