so i ended up drawing a level line across a sheet of thin chipboard and tracing the letters on the damn chipboard, and then cutting them out with a #11. this took me two hours.

kind of like karl, i'll use a #11 stainless steel (i buy stainless blades due to the hardness of stainless, i think it's worth the extra money) xacto to cut round tube, roll the tube back and forth un

Rick, Looks really good. Think you achieved a very natural peel. The only thing I would do if it were mine is take my #11 and run it down each grain line on the vertical door frames. There are a fe

glued joint. Let it loosen the glue then use a #11 to pick the glue out.

for missed spots and re-do them. Gently run #11 blade down each space between shingles in case it got closed up by the gunk. It's about like sand paper at this point. If I had to guess, I'd say ab

Just a word on how I did the stencil. I had not quite the results that I wanted with the stippling brush...it worked great on the large Blacksmith stencil....but I think the more fragile smaller separ

For the round signs, I use a very sharp pair of Fiskar scissors. First, with an a #11 X-Acto blade I cut the sign out from the sheet in a square. This gives me something to hold while I cut. I then cu

I think Mountaingoat is on the right track. I found some pics on Railroad Line but no information on how it was made. It looks like he used square brass tubing for a handle. A stack of #11 blades so

My thoughts about the "#11 Exacto blade" tool. I wonder if the grain lines would be really fine and tend to disappear after we treated the scale lumber wit A & I due to minor swelling.

I finally found what you are looking for. It is known as the wood wrecker. It is made with either 5 or 6 #11 Exacto blades press fit into the end of a K&S 3/32 X 3/8 brass tube. It is shown in a worki

somewhere on the forum, buried mid thread, someone describes making a scratching tool for detailing wood out of used #11 blades and a piece of tubing. if anyone remembers it and knows where it is, pl

somewhere on this forum someone explained how to utilize old #11 blades by inserting them into a piece of tubing and making a scratching tool out of it, and i have a bunch of used #11 blades and would

Thanks Robert...right you are my friend, that's how I do it as well. I use thin tissue paper though not Kleenex type as that's too fargile for how I work it, more like the kind used for gift wrapping

like old heavy weathered paint. I then take my #11 blade a pick and scrape off the paint as I wish. More paint removed the more weathered it appears. Here's an almost finished wall utilizing this

To get more rotten look, I just pick and remove small amounts of wood at the edges and areas of interest with my #11 blade. Then the areas I want to look more deteriorated I go at it with browns and

Tom, I switched over to #17 and #18 chisel blades, you'll see these recommended in my newer manuals. #11's work great, you just need to be careful not to tear the wood, use light passes and a new blad

new #11 blade, several easy passes.

Agree. #11 blade. Steel wool on fuzzies.

picked and rounded the edge of the hole with my #11 blade. I then took a bigger pipe and placed it over the smaller hole and rocked it back and forth to make round indentations around the small hole

bricks. The left 4.5 bricks I used my #11 blade and defined each brick. Can you see this difference in a close up?...sure...could you tell in the finished model with just looking?...probably not.