like old heavy weathered paint. I then take my #11 blade a pick and scrape off the paint as I wish. More paint removed the more weathered it appears. Here's an almost finished wall utilizing this

To get more rotten look, I just pick and remove small amounts of wood at the edges and areas of interest with my #11 blade. Then the areas I want to look more deteriorated I go at it with browns and

Tom, I switched over to #17 and #18 chisel blades, you'll see these recommended in my newer manuals. #11's work great, you just need to be careful not to tear the wood, use light passes and a new blad

new #11 blade, several easy passes.

Agree. #11 blade. Steel wool on fuzzies.

picked and rounded the edge of the hole with my #11 blade. I then took a bigger pipe and placed it over the smaller hole and rocked it back and forth to make round indentations around the small hole

bricks. The left 4.5 bricks I used my #11 blade and defined each brick. Can you see this difference in a close up?...sure...could you tell in the finished model with just looking?...probably not.

For the two windows and door I first made sure I had windows that would fit the opening once I created it. I then took a new #11 blade and cut the outline as deep as I could then switched to a chisel

Hi Chris, I used very small dabs of epoxy on the ties every 3rd or 4th tie or so. Once the epoxy was dry but not cured I used my #11 blade to clean up any the squished out...tedious work of course in

This is a picture of the Tempering Oven stack. I first took the supplied styrene tube and used my #11 blade to make the simulated joints and then a pointed awl for the spot welds. Spray painted blac

I just finished up a fun little detail. I had overlooked putting in a hanging light above the "people door" leading from the concrete transfer dock to the Foundry. Rather than do the traditional "go

I took the light shade included in the kit and "dished it out" with my #11 blade to create a concave shade and then added an Epoxy light globe, not a bulb.

the sign base. I then use my sanding stick and #11 blade and pick and sand feather the edges and re-chalk the exposed paper. This gives a very blended and weathered border which is key to the impre

of the door and the side walls, I then took my #11 blade and forceps and removed some chunks and pieces along the edge that would show and painted the chipboard SW Concrete, dusted lightly with black

simulated wood grain on the Laserboard with my #11 blade. I then put in subtile nail holes. Over time I have gotten away, for the most part, from just plain round nail holes. They appear too unifo

place the mylar on a piece of wood and with my #11 blade cut the various pieces out that were previously marked with the scribe. I then lay the mylar on my chalk paper and dirty up the side sprayed

with detailing the board ends mostly with my #11 blade and a pointed awl. Various imperfections such as gouges, cracks, pieces of wood missing, knot holes, etc. are done both to the board ends and s

Terry, ohh very delicate. I supported the entire frame other than the one side I was working on and grained it very lightly with the tip of my #11 blade.

I decided to see how much I could make the kick plates at the bottom of each door look like wood. These plates are installed separately so I was able to use my #11 and cut and create grain and nail h

most of my detailing with a pointed awl and my #11 blade which of course creates no "fuzzies" at all. The board ends you see on my walls that are highly weathered/rootted are not created with the wi