along the board ends. Previously I would use my #11 blade to split and wether the ends. I didn't care for the result as the blade was so sharp the cracks didn't show up and if I tilted the blade it

I experimented with imparting a wood grain into the laser cut window frames. The material has a grain that goes perpendicular to the long measure of the frame. I went over the frame with my #11 blad

The "peel" is created by scrapping away the paint with a #11 blade. I like it as it is completely controllable. Leave it where you want it, scrape it away where you don't.

I wouldn't pick up a #11 blade until tomorrow Rick!

NO clean up! I'm serious, I have not picked up my #11 blade once when detailing these parts. As an example, the various highly detailed bottles come on a sprue attached at the bottom of the bottles.

Steve…I think you’re referring to the boiler/welding shop. The stripwood was “primed” with a/c 408.3/408.5/234.3…then drybrushed with Reaper SW Bone White then with a #11 blade and scratch brush

Did you drill out from the bottom or the back? If you drilled out from the back, you can use your #11 blade to scrape away material and enlarge the hole towards the top. Not as easy as drilling, but

Did you drill out from the bottom or the back? If you drilled out from the back, you can use your #11 blade to scrape away material and enlarge the hole towards the top. Not as easy as drilling, but

What tools do you carve with.....a #11 blade?....

at the floor pretty hard with the wire brush and #11 blade, going after a rotted appearance, and I like how that turned out. I had to shorten a few boards vertically to get everything to fit, which

When cutting this material, it is very important that you use a new #11 blade and use light pressure and make multiple passes.

so i ended up drawing a level line across a sheet of thin chipboard and tracing the letters on the damn chipboard, and then cutting them out with a #11. this took me two hours.

kind of like karl, i'll use a #11 stainless steel (i buy stainless blades due to the hardness of stainless, i think it's worth the extra money) xacto to cut round tube, roll the tube back and forth un

Rick, Looks really good. Think you achieved a very natural peel. The only thing I would do if it were mine is take my #11 and run it down each grain line on the vertical door frames. There are a fe

glued joint. Let it loosen the glue then use a #11 to pick the glue out.

for missed spots and re-do them. Gently run #11 blade down each space between shingles in case it got closed up by the gunk. It's about like sand paper at this point. If I had to guess, I'd say ab

Just a word on how I did the stencil. I had not quite the results that I wanted with the stippling brush...it worked great on the large Blacksmith stencil....but I think the more fragile smaller separ

For the round signs, I use a very sharp pair of Fiskar scissors. First, with an a #11 X-Acto blade I cut the sign out from the sheet in a square. This gives me something to hold while I cut. I then cu

I think Mountaingoat is on the right track. I found some pics on Railroad Line but no information on how it was made. It looks like he used square brass tubing for a handle. A stack of #11 blades so

My thoughts about the "#11 Exacto blade" tool. I wonder if the grain lines would be really fine and tend to disappear after we treated the scale lumber wit A & I due to minor swelling.