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Terry and the O scale Sawmill

edited November 2022 in O Scale Builds
The final package of the three part O Scale sawmill arrived yesterday….the machinery. Even tho I’m an HO scale builder, I’ve had my eye on this kit from the first time I “wandered” into Brett’s website.
I’ve got a couple of builds to finish up and then the sawmill moves to the top of my to-do list….maybe late spring
Terry
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Comments

  • The final package of the three part O Scale sawmill arrived yesterday….the machinery. Even tho I’m an HO scale builder, I’ve had my eye on this kit from the first time I “wandered” into Brett’s website.
    I’ve got a couple of builds to finish up and then the sawmill moves to the top of my to-do list….maybe late spring
    Terry

    you and me both!

  • edited November 2022
    Terry...what are you doing! You start working on that beautiful O Scale Sawmill and I'm afraid we'll lose another HO scale modeler to the dark side.lol.
  • Cannot wait to see your build of the sawmill. Oh, and I absolutely love the title of your thread!
  • Terry,

    Fear not! There is plenty of light on the dark side,

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • Love this kit. Looking forward to your version.
  • Fantastic news Terry (and Kevin), cant wait to follow along with you (both) as you build this amazing kit.
  • I just looked at mine which is in progress....but stored away as I am not ready to plant it on the layout.....I'll be watching
  • it's gonna be a while for me.
  • Can't wait for the start.
  • Looking forward to this build!!

    Jerry
  • Jerry said:

    Looking forward to this build!!

    Jerry

    I second that. Randy
  • Ken…. Good one… that brought a smile to my face.
    I’m gonna go “out on a limb “ here. I know you’re working your way thru Brett’s HO kits in the order they were released but when you finish those up your modeling fingers will grab onto the O scale sawmill …just sayin’
    Terry
  • Terry, Putting my hands over my ears and….lalalalala!!!
  • you know he's right. you won't be able to resist. especially after i start butchering it. you'll be like, "NO, NO, NO. you should do it like this." and you'll proceed to show us all on your very own o scale saw mill.
    cheers.
  • So….I’ve started reading Brett’s construction manuals and several build threads from the forum. I’ve come across (5) builds:
    Another O Scale Sawmill (Bill)
    Most Ambitious So Far thr O Scale Sawmill (Robert G)
    Sawmill Complex On30 Module
    (MoganHillRR
    SierraWest O Scale Sawmill Kit 308
    (Karl A)
    The Sawmill Project Kit 308
    (brownbr)

    Will take me awhile to digest this info but some great modelers have gone before me to break the trail
    Terry
  • Have fun with it, old man.
  • It’s great having my son interested in the same hobby as me….
  • You're very lucky "old man"... hah!
  • no kidding. i got into this hobby so i could have something to share with my boys. they couldn't care less about it.... oh well.
  • So...in preparation for building this kit later this spring, I'm spending a lot of time studying the templates and construction manual, as well as several previous builds posted on the forum (Bill, Bryan, Karl, Robert and Joe). A question has arisen that maybe those who have built this kit can answer.

    The manual/template calls for the carriage risers/rails (the log carriage travels back and forth on this) to be installed as the non prototypical length of around 63 feet. Wouldn't it be more realistic to install the wood risers in sections of 16-20' lengths (depending on spacing of underlying supports) and the rail in the neighborhood of 33 feet. Also, the manual calls for the rail to be adhered to the risers with epoxy glue (which I agree with) but also shouldn't there also be rail spikes used (purely cosmetic)?

    Or am I being too much of a 'rivet counter'...thoughts and opinions please.

    BTW, when my build finally kicks off it appears it will be a concurrent build with another one of our members so perhaps he will also be interested to the response(s) to this question

    Terry
  • Most rail sections in the day were 39 feet long, to fit on a 40 foot flatcar.....at the actual Sturgeons saw mill ( I've been there) they are secured with spikes, and also some metal underbracing to maintain the "guage" (distance between the rails). You can add details everywhere...but most won't be seen on the actual model....I have NBW castings in places that are really hard to see, but I am happy in my own mind that they are there....
  • edited January 2023
    Good info Art.

    You could cut the risers down to length, just ensure you keep them straight.
    Another thing to do would be to score them at joints just to give the appearance of separate pieces while still giving the ease of assembly meticulously designed into the kit.

    With a 63' length you would only need two joints for each riser anyway and they would be towards the center of the mill and essentially hidden.
    Once you add the machinery, walls and other construction and then add some sawdust and all the many, many details around the scene, the joints would likely never be noticed.

    The spikes for the rail would be a nice addition. Especially visible at the open end of the carriageway, depending on where you put the carriage.

    The joints would be visible at this very early stage.
    mill
    But even at this early second construction stage they would be hard to notice.
    And I haven't even got any sawdust, details, walls, rafters etc. in place at this point yet.
    mill2

    Most importantly, make it your own and enjoy the build.
    I know we are all going to enjoy following along with you.
  • Muddy….thanks for the info on the rail lengths and the encouragement of placing details even when they’ll be hard to see
    Karl… great idea on “scoring “ in faux joints in the rail risers. A concern I had was cutting the risers and then getting the pieces aligned….(head slap) why didn’t I think of that
    Terry
  • Hey Terry, you are talking to a bunch of rivet counters on this forum.
  • <<Shock>> !!!
  • edited January 2023
    Another tidbit...you seldom find a length of dimensional lumber longer than 20 feet..not that you can't find them longer.....so the same concept Karl put forth....you need to either cut your wood no longer that 20 feet scale feet ( 5 inches).....or...as Karl says....put in faux joints....light pressure with a dull #11 blade will look like two joined boards or beams...just don't score too deep. This gives you a chance to brace the joint with bolts and gussets....the possibilities are endless...As stated...it's your world....build is to your liking
  • edited January 2023

    Another tidbit...you seldom find a length of dimensional lumber longer than 20 feet..

    What ?? 24ft is a standard size available at HD, Lowes and any lumber yard.

    Besides, this is a logging operation from well over 100 years ago. They could cut down a 150ft tall old growth redwood.

    They cut what ever lumber they wanted or needed and built the mill out of it with only practical limitations.
    The lumber was cut to the required size for construction in either a temporary mill on site or in one of the other mills the company had elsewhere.

    If they needed a 30ft beam they didnt order 2 20ft beams from Lowes.com and brace them together, they just got a 40ft log and cut what they needed out of it, in one piece.

    It's a sawmill operation, they made their own lumber, in whatever practical size they needed.

  • edited January 2023
    I'll not argue...but I've never seen any cut dimensional lumber over 24 feet... how could they fit a longer piece down the log ramp and onto the carriage....
  • No argument from me Art, sorry if it came across that way.

    I was just trying to say, that the ramp and carriage wouldn't be there yet to limit them, during construction of it.
    They would be able to cut lumber to any practical length they needed in a temporary situation, so, no need for us to be overly constrained.

    I hope that clarifies what I was trying to say.



  • Terry.

    I encourage you to detail the rails. As pointed out by Steve, "You are talking to a bunch of rivet counters." We model Sierra West Scale Models because we love the fine details associated with the build. Not only do the kits make it possible for a modeler to create extremely realistic models but in fact fine art.

    About a dozen years ago I came across a great publication, "Detailing Track" by Mike Cougill, Techniques For Modeling Prototypical Looking Track. [ISBN: 978-9746143-2-8]
    The soft covered publication, published in 2010, is 125 pages of great inspiration. While it may take a bit of searching to find a copy you may find yourself referencing the information found in the book for different scenes and dioramas, not to mention layout modeling.
    Detailing Track by Mike Cougill  Front Cover.enh.resize
    Detailing Track by Mike Cougill Back Cover.enhresizeTsrc="http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/uploads/im

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
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