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HO Scale Brass & Iron Foundry Official Forum Build

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Comments

  • Nice weathering not overdone.

    Jerry
  • Brett, thank ya sir...the enthusiasm for this kit is building with every board I glue down, and I think those following have the same feeling.

    Thanks George for your perceptive critique...Brett thinks things through and to provide laser cut wall studding for those that may want to detail the interior is just plain excellent customer service. He didn't have to he wanted to. Love the choice and as I get the Repair shop walls done and the foundation going I'll decide if I'm going for a bit of interior work...hmmm...much more interior wall detailing to come if I decide to detail the interior. certainly don't give up the "P" word!

    Right Bill, I also am stoked on how these three structures in the east complex (my designation!) are shaping up....then of course you have the Stone Foundry and the west complex of three structures all seamlessly integrated into one killer diorama...Oops, getting carried away here...

    Thanks ED.

    Well Dave, thank you very much and so nice to hear that going along methodically with updates that appear trite are actually useful and meaningful. as an example, rather than wait until all the walls are done and post an update, I decided to post one completed wall to allow followers to see where I was going with things. Such an enjoyable project with you guys out there offering up such purposeful discussion...thanks.

    Back to the bench...Ken
  • Completely agree with you Dave,

    Seeing a master at work is wonderous to watch, but then to see the step-by-step they used is inspiring to us all.

    As yourself and Robert note, those extra steps make the difference.


    Karl.A
  • Finished up the Repair Shop walls featured here. Next I will be installing the doors, window and the Foundry sign on the right wall and building the foundation for the shop...

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    Front wall of the Repair Shop...

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    Rear wall...

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    Left wall, unsided portion covered by the Tempering Shed...

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    Right wall featured previously...this is the wall where the large Foundry sign goes...

    More later...
  • I think the rotting wood at the base of fences and buildings with vertical boards, is all too usually missing on models except your of course. It looks totally realistic, appreciate your work. My kit should be here early next week but I shall have to content myself with reading your posts and the manual until I return from overseas. Trust assured whichever continent I am on I shall read your latest update at soon as I see it posted it gives me so much inspiration. I feel sure your build, together with the detailed SW manuals, give new Sierra West hobbists the momentum to make a start on their kits.
  • Thanks Michael for the very nice note and appreciate your thoughts. The board end detail you mention is a subtile but important detail in my mind as well. Thanks again and be safe in your travels...Ken
  • ken,
    just curious about your wood detailing technique. do you use something other than (in addition to) the wire brushes to get your graining?
  • Thanks for your inquiry Kevin. Wire brushing is just my first step in detailing my boards. They all get an initial wire brushing for the basic grain, then I follow with detailing the board ends mostly with my #11 blade and a pointed awl. Various imperfections such as gouges, cracks, pieces of wood missing, knot holes, etc. are done both to the board ends and strategic places along the length of the board and where two boards butt together. Check my Dr. Grunge Wood Clinic thread for more details...

    Here is a good close up of one of my walls of my HO/HOn3 O'Neills Fabrication official forum build I did two years ago...it illustrates all the details I mentioned and only the base graining was done with a wire brush!

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  • i've been through the dr. grunge tutorial several times, and use all the same techniques, but yours show up so much better than mine.....
    it could be the lighting at my bench. it kinda sucks. my wood treatments look so much better in person than in the pics...
  • Another great tutorial I refer to often is Kevin O’Neill’s work on painting castings and details
    Terry
  • Very likely the lighting if its looking good to your eye Kevin.

  • edited July 2018
    I sanded down the large paper Foundry sign to almost "see through" thin and mounted on the stripwood sign base, weathered and attached to the right wall of the Repair Shop. Added four bolt head castings and done. Note a couple of the "cracks" between the boards don't look quite perfectly straight upon magnification. I went back and fixed that but either way wasn't noticeable on the model...

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    The foundation and floor for the Repair Shop and Repair Shop front porch is done. The cracks between the boards was filled with dirt colord chalk and the front edges of the porch boards were slightly rounded from wear. Hard to make this look interesting without the Repair Shop sitting on it!

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    The manual calls for a mitered joint on the corner of the foundation timbers and a butt joint where it meets the Shop foundation. I decided to have the timber ends visible with end detail as I like the look...

    More later...Ken
  • You are on a roll. Sign looks good. How many did you tear until you got this one?
  • As usual, just right ! The bolt head castings make it more real than printed ones. I also like your decision of showing the ends of the foundation timbers. I believe construction in this way is more used than in a mitered way. Ether way, it are those details that keep the whole build interesting to look at and to discover when finished.
    Thanks Ken for posting all these beauties...
  • Lights out on that sign man,,just Wow,
  • As I went back and reread the "Build" I finally recognized the assumption that affects many of my own viewpoints. I tend to see the model from the viewpoint of my railroad in 1916. In some cases that affects the use of certain details. Someone else may be seeing the appropriate amount of aging from the eyes of the 1950's. Certainly barn wood would vary considerably over those decades so the question of what's appropriate is still dependent on knowing the "when" during the building. On the other hand I've also begun to notice that a number of hobbyists just build the most interesting building possible for the sheer pleasure of the build. Talk about an eye-opener.... Ken told us what he was going to build but I've been asleep at the wheel. Another confirmation that SierraWest builds kits that can make everyone happy.
  • Thanks Bryan, got it sanded down and glued down on the first try!

    You bet Robert and appreciate that. I enjoy the subtile personal modeling choices that make a build personal and unique. I never change anything for the sake of change, but rather for my style of modeling and what I like based on my overall plan formulated early on.

    Thanks Alan, I was happy with how the sign turned out and as I mentioned to Bryan, got it the first time. Brett includes several copies and two choices of sign layout so those building this kit can jump in and get it done without worrying about messing one up.

    Good point Bill, and to further clarify I'm modeling The Foundry around circa 1921 or so with the Blacksmith Shop originally from the late 1800s. This also is the same vintage as my O'Neills Fabrication diorama that provides the used oil for the Foundry and...well you know the back story...
  • Finished putting up the walls and the roof of the Repair Shop. I'll be getting some pictures this evening. Prior to putting the walls together, I lighted the end of the floor that wopuld be under the covered porch outside the building. I used some fine steel wool to lighten it a bit then hand rubbed in real dirt to get a worn ground in dirt look.

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    Note the end of the floor planking has been lightened, this section will be outside the building under a covered roof.

    Brett stresses the need for the rear and left walls to be perfectly plumb and at the exact edge of the foundation as the rear wall butts up against the Pattern Shop and the Tempering Shed butts up aginst the left wall of the Repair Shop.

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    Here I'm making use of various steel stock to brace the rear wall perfectly alligned with the foundation and plumb vertically. Plumb walls and tight corners is a must...
  • Repair Shed with walls and roof installed.

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    The covered porch and associated details yet to be installed...

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    Love the look of this wall sitting on the timber foundation...well designed Brett!

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    Some scale perspective. Rear and left wall. Unsided rear wall butts up aginst the finished Pattern Shop and the unsided left wall has the Tempering Shed butted up aginst it.

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    Full frontal...on to the Tempering Shed...Ken
  • That's Fantastic! Your walls are so square that the use of machinist's plates are obvious. I assume that you've collected quite an assortment of weights, magnets, and machined edges over the years.
  • edited July 2018
    Love the high contrast in those walls, also the specific, and well thought out/planned, 'more weathered here than there' factor, and still it all blends together beautifully and naturally.
    Superb!

    Karl.A
  • As always amazing work. Love following this thread.
  • Looks great.
    What material are the shingles supposed to represent? They look more uniform than your usual roofs.
  • Wow. Fantastic. All that great texture and color -- hard to imagine it's HO scale. The big hand helps :smiley:
  • Just amazing, and this is only the beginning.....
  • Thanks Bill and yes, I have a large assortment of metal stock for just this sort of thing.

    Appreciate your thoughts Karl as always...

    Hey Joel, nice hearing from you and thanks much.

    Thanks Bryan and your attention to detail is obvious! Brett researched and developed these prototypical classic 3-tab asphalt shingles, correct for early 1930s, just for this kit! They are so easy to install, weather effortlessly, and look fantastic. This is such a refreshing development from the standard shake shingle roofs we have all been modeling for years. This is just another example, which there are many with this kit, of Brett's innovative design and manufacturing philosophy that elevates SierraWest as a patriarch of the modeling community.

    Thanks Terry and sorry about including the "lunch hooks" in the images, I should have my wife do the honors!

    Right Robert, just getting started and appreciate your thoughts.
  • Finished up and assembled the walls of the Tempering Shed. The Tempering shed is tar paper and batten and is such a cool little build. The tar paper is applied to the chipboard templates and I put in some horizontal base siding in strategic location as before by cutting out portions of the chipboard template and replacing with detailed stripwood. The hinged solid wood door is a killer little feature. Brett has provided so many innovative door designs in this kit. The roof and the corrugated metal Workbench Awning are yet to be installed.

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    Note the added horizontal wood base siding and missing tar paper in strategic locations.

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    Although the rear of the Tempering Shed butts up aginst the Repair Shop a portion where I added the wood siding and missing tar paper is visible...

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    What is with me and needing to get my hand in the image!!! I need my wife Cathy to stand in here...her hands are much more acceptable than mine!
  • Ken

    Great little structure indeed! Like you, I am admiring the latest assortment of doors that Brett designed for these neat structures. Of course no structure would be complete without the signature "KKarns" treatment. In this case, the horizontal boards "peeking" out at strategic locations from underneath the tar paper. Nice work as always. I might be tempted to add a 2" x 4" interior frame to the structure so that a few 2" x 4"s could be peeking out from underneath some of the horizontal wall boards. But that will only be if I get a chance to build this structure in O-Scale some day (sigh!).

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • edited July 2018
    Terrific treatment and effects on that tar paper, so much interest created to something
    that could be so 'plain'.
    The 'up and over' door looks perfect, such a great design by Brett that fits perfectly
    where it is located.
    Your weathering of everything is superb as always.

    Karl.A

    (hi to Miss Cathy)
  • Ah, The partially open windows. Very nice Ken.
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