HO Scale Brass & Iron Foundry Official Forum Build



  • Ken,

    Grunge and old go together.
  • Mike, rest of it I would call "seasoned"!

    Thanks Karl...we'll leave it at "old in modeling"

    Appreciate that JP, I do give the basics a fair amount of attention, good or bad, that's for sure..

    Right on Stephen...
  • edited July 2018
    I primed all the window and door components for the Pattern Shop with the Rustoleum khaki Brett recommends.


    This is a very fine mist, dead flat paint, excellent for this application. While the paint is dry and now curing, I turned my attention to detailing and trimming out the 3 freight door openings.


    This is the rear door that has the split dock doors and track. Brett has you use the same wood used for the siding for the threshold sill. This is great as this wood is thick and perfect for a dock threshold, while the other trim is thinner...well thought out here. I sanded down and rounded the front edge of the threshold for all 3 doors. This would naturally occur over time from continuous use.


    The right wall dock opening, note the tickness at the far left and how the wear has thinned out the section in the middle.


    Right wall edge damage from loading and unloading freight and materials.


    Right wall edge details...


    Left wall...


    The header of the right wall freight door opening that has the trim installed. After placing the trim I used a small brush and some diluted white glue and ran it along the top of the trim. I then took another small brush with chalk and brushed the chalk onto the area with the glue then blew off the excess. This gives the effect of dirt and grunge accumulation.

    More later...
  • I love the level of detail and the stories it tells. I am following along avidly. So much to learn so little time.
  • Good to focus on the artistry of "AGE". Whatever its called, these photos show that Ken does it well!
  • Dust and accumulated grime on the door header...Ken seems to have no limits....makes me wonder if a pile of rat droppings will appear inside in a viewable much to learn and honor indeed to be following along
  • i totally agree. ratshit. hmmmm
  • sdrees said:


    Grunge and old go together.

    Odd coincidence, my wife has said that many times while commenting on my wardrobe...

    Build question--to what extent should the splits/cracks in the ends of abutting boards line up? I have seen quite a variation in this and wonder to what extent it happens with real boards (I have little direct access to prototype examples of this).
  • edited July 2018
    Glad you're here Joel and thanks.

    Thanks Bill, and I guess there is a bit of art to "the grunge"

    Have to draw the line somewhere don't we Terry!...the honor is mine, to be knocking elbows with you guys.

    I'll pass on the rat crapola Kevin...I will not bend under the peer pressure...

    Thanks Ed. Working hard...hardly working...or something like that

    Mike, there you go...that's why the women folk are way smarter than us.

    The splits and cracks on the board ends would not necessarily line up as it would depend on the individual board grain, what type of wood was used, where the nails were put in, how much moisture each board had when it was put up etc...on the other hand, damage across boards of course would line up and areas of rot tend to involve more than one board. With the scale we are working in with The Foundry (1:87), the splits and such on board ends is very subtle unless magnified.
  • edited July 2018
    The Pattern Shop windows and 2 of the 3 freight door sets are finished. The roll up freight door is being worked on and is treated with a different color and weathering than the others.

    What can I say about Brett's laserboard windows and doors other than they are simply wonderful. So easy to work up and the look is amazing. remember when you review the pictures here that these windows and doors are not wood and are cut to such thin and exacting standards that the look is so prototypical. They take paint, chalk, and weathering just like wood...


    Here are the split rear freight doors. I followed the manual and was a bit skeptical on the final step that calls for the scuffing of the doors with fine steel wool...not anymore! That step was the ah..ha moment...a little scuff and the doors look newer, more scuff and you age the door right in front of you...genius Brett.

    I decided to see how much I could make the kick plates at the bottom of each door look like wood. These plates are installed separately so I was able to use my #11 and cut and create grain and nail holes in the laserboard. Nail holes are a bit strong but without magnification, they are can just tell they are there. I finished off the weathering by applying a tiny amount of diluted white glue along the bottom ledges and brushed in dirt colored chalk to simulate accumulated dirt and debris.


    This is the large single left wall freight door. I purposely varied the mix of paints to give it a bit darker shade than the split doors. This door is assembled just like the split doors with the front etched side glued to the base. It mounts on the inside of the left wall, open as you desire. Just remember if you open it too far you'll be able to see the lack of floor on the inside!...but hey, who wants to have very much of this beautifully designed door behind a wall!


    The rear wall windows that are postioned on either side of the split freight doors. The lower sash is designed to fit from the inside tilted inward as desired. This will be done just before the walls are assembled so the wall can be laid flat for work on hanging the freight doors and track...

    More later...Ken
  • Oops, forgot to show the outside window frame laserboard window pieces. Once again, detailed to look like wood...


    Note the subtile nail holes and graining.


    Reality Check! Just to show how small, thin, and to exact standards Brett's window materials are...
  • edited July 2018
    Apparently the window sash/frames are not to delicate to apply wood graining?
  • Doors and windows look fantastic Ken
  • Nice update Ken. I appreciate where you show what is standard according to the instructions and where you might vary it a bit. I'm enjoying the build. Phil
  • edited July 2018
    Terry, ohh very delicate. I supported the entire frame other than the one side I was working on and grained it very lightly with the tip of my #11 blade.

    Hey Thanks Stephen...can't wait to get them "hung"...

    Right Phil, I will try and do this throuhout the build and that's the enjoyment of Brett's kits, making them your own...
  • Fantastic work. What an amazing eye for colour and texture.
  • These are great "details" and I appreciate seeing them at this stage of the assembly. I like the fact that you mentioned that that multiple paint and chalk colors were used because each of us will probably need to match slightly different shades of aged wood by this point. This might also be a spot to add a window or two that a worker attempted to clean with a rag. (the smeared glass still wouldn't reveal the interior.)
  • Thanks much Joel. Colour and texture...the first verse in the SierraWest bible...

    Glad the intermediate pictures and descriptions are helpful. I like to vary the colours used within a determined pallate. The glass pane cleaned by hand detail you mention is a good one and one I have used previously and may do here based on your suggestion. This detail can be added at anytime so I'll see how it goes together and what areas are the most visible.
  • Last of the Pattern Shop freight doors. This is the really nifty roll up style door. Brett suggests making a handle out of flattened solder and that's exactly what I did. Looks to me slightly out of scale but again, without the camera and magnification it looks perfectly fine. On to putting all the cool doors and windows in...

  • Terrific update Ken... Colours and textures are wonderful and that added element of "accumulated dirt" is one of those 'small things with a big impact'
    Very nicely done my friend, great modelling.

  • Ken, what a treat. The textures and colors are just unbelievable. I am loving watching you bring this to life.
  • Thanks much Karl. The windows and doors are a real treat to work with as you know. Keep in touch...

    Appreciate that Vince, and nice to see you following along here.
  • Like that handle on the Garage detail.
  • Ken some fine work on the windows and doors.

  • Are you sleeping at all Ken ? Such a nice detailing . Wear on the right spots. It becomes hard sometimes to believe this is HO. This would be to small for me to work on so I am full of awe to see this. Good we have these photos because when one looks at a finished build, all those details get a little 'lost' just because they are so tiny.
    You are doing a super job Ken. Thanks for taking all that time in posting.
  • Beautiful as always! Makes me want to work on my stuff.... soon enough I can/will. Until then I will just continue to be awestruck!
  • Ken, Just a technique question about your roll-up door construction. Do you use a folded paper joint-reinforcement to keep the seams closed during the glue drying? (since the back side of these seams remain invisible in a closed building)
  • Hi Bill, the roll up style garage door is a two part door, as are the other doors on the Pattern Shop, with a base piece and the top piece. Both pieces are scored so the fold is easy and stays put. I folded the base first then the top piece and made sure the bend was the same then glued the two pieces together. They are staying put just fine.
  • Alan, the handle was a nice addition and easy to construct albeit small...Brett made the suggestion in the manual to fashion a handle out of flattened solder wire and it worked perfectly.

    Jerry, thanks much and next to the stripwood detailing, one of my favorite things to work on. So much you can do to individualize the build by working with the windows and doors.

    Appreciate that Robert and you have intuitive insight regarding the smaller details. As more and more small details come together they make a significant impact on the look and "feel" of the entire diorama. I love doing the details that are tucked in behind things that a viewer would only see if they peeked behind a barrel or behind a door, etc...

    Hey Mike, good point...this forum not only brings great modelers together but we motivate each other to do out best work. I'm the same way...I'll get a bit off modeling and then I'll see someones post and I'm all fired up again!
  • Ken, Thanks for providing the responses to all of the questions/ interruptions that that we raise. We are trying to absorb all of the construction details that you, Brett and so many others have already mastered. I was considering reworking a N scale grab iron but using thin solder from electronics is interesting.
    Now I'm wondering if I can use a thin copper strand from flex wire and a touch of solder to mimic a 1/87 padlock when we chain a set of doors closed.
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