O Scale O'Neill's Fabrication build thread

kebmo

meant to say i know the vents look crooked, but they were checked with a square while installing them, and they're sraight.

KKarns

Nice looking walls Kevin. I love working with Brett's window and doors, so easy and the ability to customize and detail each one is what fine scale modeling is all about. Can't wait to see that tower go up. Nice looking work area.

Jerry

Nice job Kevin.

Jerry

Karl.A

Looking great kebmo., walls look great and windows by Brett are a pleasure to work with as Ken says.

From the picture of the windows I would offer the opinion that you need to ease down on the paint.
You say that this is the 'first' stippled layer, implying that you intend to add more? From the picture it looks like if you add any more then they would be completely painted.
Of course this is hard to judge from the distance of the pictures and the angle.

Looking forward to the next progress shots.,.. keep up the good work.

Karl.A

kebmo

karl, that pic was taken while the paint was still wet. seeing it now that's it dry, i'm going to stop with the paint right where i am.

kebmo

just so nobody thinks i've been sittin' on my ass doin' nothin'...
i got three tower walls glued.

call me crazy, but i just went through the manual 4 times looking for info on the tower roof and i didn't see it. if anyone can point to a page i'd appreciate it. i must getting punch drunk.....

admin

looking good! I love this part as the components start coming together.

page 74...

kebmo

4 tower walls glued and sitting on the foundation. sure enough...page 74. i don't know how i missed it 4 times, but i did.
and i wasn't drinkin'....

foundations have not been epoxied yet. just sitting there.

KKarns

All right Kevin!...she's going up nicely.

kebmo

@ed...there's the meds.....
@ ken. thanks!

Karl.A

Looking good Kebmo, walls look great..Its coming together now, and very nicely.

Cant beat the smell of resin from a SW kit to get you hooked.

Karl.A

brownbr

Looking great. The white window under the sign sticks out just a bit. Might want to tone it down when doing final weathering on walls.

Jerry

kebmo said:

4 tower walls glued and sitting on the foundation. sure enough...page 74. i don't know how i missed it 4 times, but i did.
and i wasn't drinkin'.... RIGHT!!!!

Jerry

kebmo

brownbr-thanks for pointing it out. i'll kill the 'glare' when i dust up the walls
jerry-seriously...
ed-thank you sir.
working on the dock awning this afternoon. temps are going to be in the 90's tomorrow, so i'm probably gonna cut the lawn tonight. tomorrow a graduation party (law school grad) and sunday we're gonna go to the cubs game so i probably won't be able to get back to the bench for a couple days.

kebmo

i think n-b-w's are a great detail to add. my question for the pros:
how do you cut the little buggers flush?

brownbr

I usually leave a bit of the stem on (enough to grab with tweezers). Drill a hole where they go and push the stem in.

To cut flush, I've used a razor or #11 blade to cut, then sand the back smooth.

admin

I use tweezer style sprue cutters. Makes a nice flush cut. Simple one-step.

Karl.A

To cut flush I use a razor blade like Bryan if I'm doing a lot or...
straight edge toe nail clippers if theres only a few, but generally I just grab the blade cos its always close by.

Karl.A

kebmo

when i tried it with the blade, i did it with everything down inside a 4" deep tub, and it still launched into the ether.
when i tried it with a straight edge toe nail clipper, it left a nub on the nbw, which leads me to ask....do you remove the nbw from the sprue at the sprue end and then clip the nbw off?

brownbr

I cut them inside something like you described. I usually grab some kind of cardboard box...like a SW parts box. Remember I like to keep a bit of the shank on... I put a finger across the row of NBW, then put the razor across the shanks on the sprue and push down. Cuts through almost the whole sprue at once. I can then pick them out of the box one at a time for installation.

kebmo

do you drill out holes to accept the shank?

brownbr

kebmo said:

do you drill out holes to accept the shank?

Yes. I just always done it this way. If you drill the hole the right size you really don't need glue. But if you want to glue, just put a tiny amount on the shaft and push it in the hole. If it pokes out the back of the board, I trim it with a razor. I've done a few of the "bigger" NBW without the shank just because the hole I need to drill is too big. I usually got some glue oozing out doing it this way.

brownbr

Here's an example of how I do it. The hole looks big, but it is almost exactly the diameter of the shank, and you will never see it once you insert the NBW.

Be sure to paint them before removing from sprue.

kebmo

i learned a grim lesson yesterday. i don't have the steady hand needed to attach the guy wires to the tower overhang. i spent 90 minutes getting one of them glued, and after another hour of trying to get the second one attached, i still haven't been able to. i just shake too much. if i'm not able to get it attached tonight i might have to enlist my son to do it for me. this doesn't bode well.....

kebmo

my father's day present was wilco tickets at the riverside theater in milwaukee. but i got 'em from my wife.....
great show too. best version of impossible germany that i've ever heard 'em do.

texts from the kids. go figure.
waiting to hear back from the 20 yr old rock star to see if he can come by one night this week and attach a guy wire for me.

kebmo

i figured out a way to get the guy wire attached. i bought some locktite fast setting super glue, and put just a trace of it on the ends of the wire, grabbed the wire in a small clamp that i could set down on the wall (that was laying on its side on a couple of blocks to keep from knocking off the large elbow vent), put it in place and let it sit (after many test fits to get the angle right).
here's my next dilemma...after the roof is installed (i just finished cutting the ribbed aluminum) comes the rafter tail installation. i'm debating not epoxying the tower to the foundation until after i add the rafter tails for no other reason that i think it will be easier to hold the model upside to install them without the tower and it's many details getting damaged. keep in mind i basically model with one hand. my right hand absolutely sucks for holding things steady.

kebmo

though it probably seems like it, i haven't been slacking. I screwed up and attached the ribbed roofing to the roof card and skipped the baking of the paint, so brett is sending me another roof card and a couple panels of the ribbed aluminum. i've also been waiting for a dick blick order, which came yesterday. I needed the orange chalk for the roof coloration. of course, blick won't let you order just one, so i had to order 5 other colors as well. i ordered backups for the browns because they were getting pretty 'nubby'. i did start on the framework for the main roof sign while waiting and hopefully i'll be able to finish off the roofs for the main building this weekend.

kebmo

i finished the sign this morning and my new roof card will probably be here tomorrow so i can redo the roof. til then...i gotta brag a little.
i scratch built a model of a friend's victorian that she turned into a bed and breakfast. shortly after deliver the model to her i got the o scale resource ezine. on the cover was a "what's on you bench" feature so i clicked on it and upload a few pics. he emailed me back and asked if i wanted to write up a little something on the build so i did.
it was published last week. the article is called "scratch building with styrene".
http://oscaleresource.com/

kebmo

oh ed, don't.

kebmo

stop