O'Neills Fabrication/Quincy Salvage

Joel

Great work. Love the individual shingles.

SteveCuster

Thanks Joel

djdutch

Wow I just step in to your build, once in a while I visit the forum to see al the wonderfull new builds and progress. I like it a lot, what di you use for the shingels and what did you use for the hoses ? I love your shingeld roof keep up the good work

DJ

SteveCuster

Thanks DJ. The shingles are from Sierra Scale Models(no affiliation with Sierra West) they come as sheets of cedar these were .018 thickness. The hoses are made from wire provided in the kit and finished following Brett's direction. The wire is bent around a paintbrush then squeezed into a oblong shape, after that I painted them with the SW paint set from Reaper and weathered with chalks.

I made a bit more progress this week, finally got to experiment with some coloring on the shingles.


I finished all the hip shingles, I let them dry for 24 hours before I did anything to them for fear of disturbing them. All the shingles were glued on with Franklins Titebond II.




I wanted to avoid coloring the roof with any washes if I could help it. I believe the Titebond II glue could hold up to the solvent or alcohol but I was concerned about the roof card warping. I started with 408.5 Raw Umber.




I applied 408.5 to the entire roof with a little 408.7.



I drybrushed some Apple Barrel Granite Gray on the shingles.



I liked the color of the shingles until I placed the colored roof on the structure. I didn't like the roof against the color of the wall, I thought the roof was too light to me and it looked wrong.





I went over the roof with 409.3 this time, a darker brown color. You can see the color shade difference in this picture.





This color looked much better to me. I think it gives a more subtle transition between the 2 colors.



I wanted to add a copper roof peak cap before I added the finial to the roof. I see this detail a lot on some of the older buildings around my town. I used the copy I made earlier of the roof card, I cut out the peak and folded it together.



For the copper color I painted the paper with Rust-Oleum dark gray automotive primer, followed by these 2 colors combined to make a lighter whitish green. The paint was applied with a stiff brush dabbed on, I wanted a consistent paint color.



I painted the finial the same as the paper. I didn't blacked it because I wanted the base colors to match. I brushed it with some random brown chalks to tone it down. I need to touch up the glue joint between the paper and the casting, the epoxy is still drying in this shot.

Thanks for checking in,

-Steve

admin

I love the personal touches you keep adding to the kit. The shingles look wonderful and the cap/finial in green fit the overall coloration of the model perfectly. Very well executed. I would suggest a little more weathering and even highlighting a few individual shingles with a slightly darker color. Not necessarily aging the roof, just giving it a little more contrast to make it pop more...

nextceo

The roof looks really good. Some guys struggle with dry brushing...me included...but you nailed it.

SteveCuster

Thanks Brett, I should get some time this afternoon to work, I'll add a few more shades to the shingles Brett. You think I should just dust a few with darker chalk or a different shade of dry brushing?

Thanks Alan, means a lot coming from a master of textures and details like yourself.

-Steve

KKarns

Great work Steve and I can tell you're enjoying this build as it shows in your creativity and great modeling skills. Your decision to bring the roof in more with the siding was a sound one. Brett's suggests are always spot on and I have learned so much from him and the rest of the group here...Ken

brownbr

Shingles look really good. For the other colors you are thinking of adding, I would go with a darker color that is streaking down.

SteveCuster

Thanks Ken, Bryan.

Ken - It's a great kit, lots of fun. I'm excited to use some of the techniques from this kit on my Quincy Salvage.

Bryan- I ended up adding some lighter and darker shades to the shingles using chalks. I tend to favor darker shades so I did end up using more of those.

-Steve

ironmountainlumber

Steve,
The roof looks fantastic. I tried using pre made strips of shingles but they are too thick.
These look just right and color compliments the overall build. How long did it take you to do this? I have been thinking of trying the sierra scale models shingles but am not entirely clear about time to add them to a build. The cap looks great as well it definitely has that old copper feel.
Jim

SteveCuster

Thanks Jim, it definitely took longer to do these than it would have using the sheets provided with the kit, if you look at some of the other builds those shingles look great. I used these mainly because I wanted to try them out and this kit only has a few small roofs with shingles. Once I got a system down I think it took me a few hours to do the whole roof, 2 hours maybe. I've spent almost as much time trying to straighten and weather Campbell's roll shingles. This was my first attempt using these, I believe I can apply them quicker next time. I have a stone engine house on my list I plan on using these on, it's a large roof so we'll see how long that takes.

-Steve

KCSTrains

Steve, I really like your addition of the copper roof cap. It really adds to the roof and appears to be really easy. I'll certainly use it in the future. As for the individual shingles, I used them on my Woodcutter's shack and Backwoods Water Tower. I prefer this over the normal shingles and it's not that difficult to do. BTW we use the same supplier of cedar. When weathering them, I used a technique that Bill used when he was constructing Quincy Salvage. He talks about techniques for light weathering and heavy weathering. Check it out. It's towards the beginning of his building thread.

Jerryrgs

I love how your shingles are on the roof. When you installed the ridge cap shingles over the 4x4's, are they one piece folded over the edge?

SteveCuster

Thanks KCSTrains - it's really not terribly difficult, I just read Bills thread and I think I'll try his method for the next one. I've been trying to figure out where these sheets come from, I believe something with cigars but I haven't found a non modeling source.

Thanks Jerry, I tried to fold them but they mostly just broke. I ended up up just gluing them together.

-Steve

Jerryrgs

SteveCuster said:

I've been trying to figure out where these sheets come from, I believe something with cigars but I haven't found a non modeling source.
-Steve

They used to come in cigar boxes. But no longer. Unfortunately. I have not found a non modeling source and I have been looking for four years. They are some places on Amazon and ebay. But rarely have want we are looking for. And much of the time you can't be sure what you are getting from the description. And are more expensive than ordering them from Sierra Scale Models

KCSTrains

I get mine from Sierra Scale Models and am very pleased with them. BTW I forgot to sign my comment. Phil

SteveCuster

Those are the ones I used Phil

SteveCuster

Good afternoon everyone. I finished a few of the subassemblies over the weekend, soon I will at a standstill with the O'Neills portion of the my diorama and I can start on the Quincy Salvage portion. I spent some time with the layout sheets for both kits and I believe I have a good idea how I will lay everything out. I also cut a piece of MDF as the base, it will be 27"x16".


I finished detailing the tarpaper roof over the rear freight doors.


I mocked everything up, I won't be securing anything together till I get some of the details added and I finish the base layout.


I semi-finished the corrugated metal roof over the side of the welding shop, I will detail and weather to roof more once I add it in permanently.


I added the small porch next attached to the tower. I get now get a feel for how everything will fit together.

Thanks for checking in. Next step is the tank.

-Steve

admin

Wonderful Steve. These O'Neills builds look awesome. I am so pleased with the results! Nailed the coloration. Subtle but interesting. Love your take on the drive through roof. Can't wait to see you tie O'Neills and Quiny together!

SteveCuster

Thanks Brett. I plan to add a few textures to the roof, some patchwork and boards.

-Steve

KCSTrains

I can't wait to see your Quincy build. It's been a while since Bill did his and he's still not finished!!!! Phil

SteveCuster

I finished the tank and platform today, it's a very cool and easy detail.




I had to spray the tank twice. I had a few runs when I sprayed it the first time so I sanded it down and repainted it. The whole thing goes together very easy, the hardest part is not touching it once you add the chalks.






I put all of the subassemblies on the shelf. I'm switching this thread over to the Quincy Salvage portion.



Workbench is clean and ready to go. I hope to get started on it tonight.

Thanks for checking in.
-Steve

KKarns

Coming along great Steve. The patch on the tar paper is a nice detail. That's an odd color on the main building drive under canopy corrugated, not saying bad, jut appears to me to be a bit yellowish brown. The third pic from the bottom sums it up...terrific!

SteveCuster

Thanks Ken. In the photo is does have a yellow/orange tone, its more brown in person. I may add a bit more chalk to get it closer to the welding shop metal roof in color.

I see examples of gray colored corrugated metal roofing all the time in the real world but I never like how it comes out when I try it on a model. I always end up making it very rusty. Maybe someday I'll figure out how to model a metal roof that isn't completely destroyed.

-Steve

KKarns

Hey Steve, you bring up a great point that not everything prototypical looks good in 1:87! I thought maybe the color was bit yellow from the picture. Got it now and like your going with less rusty panels there.

My comment above came before your latest pictures were posted.

Wow Steve the tank looks wonderful! Stenciling and the support assembly are a joy to look at. Well done. Love the picture of O'Neills components poised on the shelf...nice work space...Ken

nextceo

Tank looks awesome Steve...I can't tell...are there weld joints on that platform?

SteveCuster

Thanks Ken, I love the tank detail and it was very easy to assemble and color.

Thanks Alan, I'll leave the HO scale welds to Ken.

-Steve

SteveCuster

I made a bit of progress on Quincy's this weekend.




First step was taking everything out of the box, I also read the instructions before I got started. As with any Sierra West kit, the contents are the highest quality. This particular kit comes with some large resin junk pile castings along with a whole box of individual castings, several retaining walls and mine had 2 different railroad cars, one empty and one full of junk. Instructions are very clear and easy to understand.



I'm going for a color and weathering similar to this garage in my neighborhood.


For this particular building I was going for a more gray colored wood so I only colored the wood with A&I. (5 Tsps per 32 oz bottle). This was my sample piece, I always test out any colors on some scrap first.



I added texture to all the board with a wire brush, then I dunked all the pieces in my bottle of A&I. To get the base color I wanted I added another coat of A&I after the first dried.




I was having a hard time getting the red color I wanted, they all came out pink. I went to Michaels and purchased every shade of craft red I could find. They only cost $1.29 a piece. I ended up using the 2nd from the right, Americana Deep Burgundy.







Once I got the colors locked down I started framing out the walls. I was spoiled with the laser cut framing on the welding shop for O'Neills, this one I need to actually build the framework.


It really didn't take me long to frame it out. I made good use of my NSWL Chopper and precut all the pieces for each wall before I began. I used stripwood guides provided to make sure the top and bottles were straight.

All 4 walls framed out and set aside.



I colored all the stripwood in the same manner as the walls for O'Neills. I didn't want much color on the walls so I went pretty easy on the boards. I cut a whole pile of boards with my chopper and I mixed them up in a pile. I used a wire brush the chew some of the ends up, I also used a #11 blade to chop at them a bit.



I needed to tone down the red on the walls so I dusted them with dirt colored chalks. The lighting gave it a pinkish tone but it's more dirty red in reality.

-Steve

KKarns

Great tutorial so far Steve. Love this kit and you're off to a great start. Paint peel is terrific and I like how you toned down the red color. Your board ends are really nicely done with the nail holes just big enough and not just round holes on every one but some split boards ends where the holes are. Will be following along closely...Ken