O'Neills Fabrication/Quincy Salvage

Bill

Steve-
I'm just getting caught up on your build. O'Neills turned out great--especially the individual cedar shakes. While it's not a difficult task, it certainly requires a level of finesse and patience in order to get the results you did! The copper flashing/finial really complete the look.

The barn from Quincy's looks well constructed and weathered and I REALLY like the color of the wood on the little shed. Very convincing!

If I could point out 1 minor thing…take a look at the signs on the left side wall (especially in the close up shot). Those look a lot thicker than the ones on the side of the barn. It could be that the signs on that wall haven't been hit with a final dusting of chalk, perhaps.
But the white edges are the giveaway and indicate how thick the material is. some grayish chalk will help tone that down, but here are a couple things I like to do on my signs:

-after cutting them out, I'll take an emory board and sand the back side of the paper. This thins the edge of the paper (almost down to tissue paper thinness) and makes the transition less abrupt.

-after sanding, I'll color the edge. Even after sanding it, the stark white will still show and draw unwanted attention. I use rust colored chalks or weathering powder, A/I, or even thick paint--depending on the desired outcome. I posted a little SBS on pg. 1 of my Quincy's thread about signs.

Hope you don't mind me mentioning it!
Bill

SteveCuster

Thanks Bill. The signs for the main red building were made using a copy of the original sheet printed out on thinner paper that's why they appear thinner. I lost some clarity from the original signs when I copied them so I just used the original sheet for the shed. I thought they may look a little closer to metal or porcelain signs if I kept them the original thickness. I will touch up the edges tonight and see how it looks. Thanks for the input. I spent a good amount of time reading your Quincy build to get an idea how I wanted to do mine. I stole a few of your ideas as you will see as this build unfolds.

I made a good amount of progress this week on the roof for the shed.




I spliced in some random boards to give me an area to leave some shingles off. I wanted this roof to look beat up more than the 2 O'Neills buildings.



I used the same technique I've used for the other roofs. Slow and steady, even on a beat up roof I wanted them to be mostly straight.






The cap shingles were the most challenging. I think it gives it a nice prototypical look though.





First application of color. I used chalks and alcohol to wash the shingles. Obviously this color will not do but it's a good base.



I added some dry chalks over the base color.



The other side.



I added some drybrushing of white and gray. The camera is not picking up the subtle color variation in the roof but it has several shades of brown/brownish gray.











I need to dirty it up a bit and maybe add some more drybrushing but overall I am happy with how the roof turned out. This was my first attempt at doing a more weathered shake roof. I really like this little shed, I will attempt to take some outdoor shots this weekend if it's nice out.

Now that I have all the main buildings roughed out I can lay them out and figure out how this diorama will come together. Hopefully I will get some time to do that this weekend. I'm also going to have to paint about 1000 castings at some point soon.

Thanks for checking in.

-Steve

SteveCuster

This is a little better picture of the roof after drybrushing.

brownbr

The shingles turned out great.

KKarns

Looks terrific Steve. Love the worn areas and the sub-roof planks showing through. Your shingles are worn and out of alignment just right, not overdone as you so often see...well done there. Bill's advise is sound and he is a wizard at scale signage. Great color on the siding as well, really enjoying your work...Ken

SteveCuster

Thanks Bryan, Thanks Ken.

Ken, your photos of your O'Neills diorama put a fire under me to get the base and scenery going for mine here. I spent some time trying to wrap my head around the configuration of these buildings together. I drew a sketch but I can never really visualize it until I start putting buildings down and moving them, so I did that a bit this morning.





Obviously the elevations aren't in place yet and the trestle hasn't been built but you can get an idea of the placement of the structures.

The area between the drive-under on O'Neills and the left side of Quincy will be the retaining wall/junk pit area. I have a whole area in front of O'Neills on the other side of the tracks I need to fill also, probably more junk details. The area in front of the welding shop and the Quincy barn will be a concrete road. I decided on this placement so you can see into the interiors of both the barn and the welding shop.

Let me know any different suggestions for building placement. The track has to be where it is so it can be dropped into my layout.

Thanks
-Steve

Geezerbill

Steve, I echo the comments on our shingles. They are laid just right with excellent color. Very nice. I look forward to your continuing scenery.

SteveCuster

Thanks Bill.

ironmountainlumber

Hi Steve,

The faded red wood on the main barn looks great. I have got to try that. Very unique look. The shingles are fantastic. It really adds another dimension to the total feel and age of the building. I am really looking forward to seeing how all this comes and together.

Keep it coming!

Jim

SteveCuster

Thanks Jim

KKarns

Really a great phase of the build isn't it Steve, when things start to come together and you get a feel for the "traffic" flow, wonderful work so far. I'm waiting to see how a concrete road is going to look with the structures...with you at the helm, fantastic I'm quite sure. I haven't done any concrete roads so I'll be particularly interested in following you here...Ken

Geezerbill

Steve, I apologize for my typo in my above post. I meant to say "YOUR" shingles not "our" shingles. You did a fantastic job on them. Very, very nice indeed.

Bill

SteveCuster

Thanks Ken, Im not sure if I will do a concrete floor for the barn as well. Might be too much.

Thanks Ed and Bill. The cedar shingles are a ongoing experiment for me. Still getting the hang of them.

SteveCuster

I played with the building configurations and added a floor to the barn this week. I also built a car to be worked on inside the shed.


This is a little bit more how everything will sit, I think I'm going to raise the Quincys storage shed up 1/2 inch and the area around it. The elevations are too extreme to me.



I added the flooring to the main barn, I also added some oil stains on the floor. I just used floquil graphite paint spread out in a teardrop pattern, I dirtied it up with some chalk.






I built this Jordan 1928 Model A kit to go inside the barn right over that oil stain. This is the first Jordan I've built in a long time and the first plastic kit in a long time. I forgot how challenging these kits are. I was using the wrong glue in the beginning, I pressed on the car and it feel apart. I ended up getting some Tamiya plastic cement and things went a bit smoother. This is the first rag/towel I've ever done, I used the technique I learned from a few guys on this forum and it was very easy. I separated a Kleenex to single ply, cut it to size, then I added a drop of paint thinner and a drop of Floquil Oxide Red.


This is a mock up of how it'll look once it's installed in the barn. The jackstands are Brett's castings left over from The Shipyard I think. This whole area will be a huge mess of tools and rags. I was a mechanic for 10 years, I know exactly how this mess should look.

Thanks for checking in,

-Steve

nextceo

Steve, looks awesome! You should consider using some of the Pearl Colored Gallery Glass on at least one of those headlights.

SteveCuster

Thanks Alan. The kit came with little clear plastic lenses but I dropped them on the carpet and I'll never find them. I was looking for something to fill them in, Ive heard good things about Gallery Glass I'll pick some up.

-Steve

KKarns

This is going to be one nice diorama Steve. Love the combination and what you're doing with it. Great detail on the Ford...Ken

SteveCuster

Thanks Ken. I'm having fun putting it together.

admin

I really like the config. The below grade junk area looks perfect in that position next to O'Neills...

SteveCuster

Thanks Brett, I raised the rear area up 1/2 inch and moved the track back 2". The junk pit will still be at the same level.

Ed, Alan is full of useful info and techniques. He's a real pro.

SteveCuster

I started moving on finishing the details for the interior of the shop. I've had some challenges taking pictures of the interior, I need to do some research how to take a clearer overshot picture. I can't seem to get both the front and rear details in focus. My details are coming up pretty dark as well. For me painting and adding the details is always the slowest part of a build, I added some of the details but it's far from finished.


Here is the workbench casting, so much cool detail on this one. Everything is painted with the Reaper SW set and weathered with chalk and/or A&I. Brett has some of the finest castings in the hobby.


I added some legs with scale 4x4s and the cross braces are scale 2x4s.



This is one of my favorite details. I added the small drive belt using masking tape painted black. The oil stain is Floquil Graphite. Most of the castings in the interior of the barn are from my castings bin, I didn't want to use any of the SW castings from the kit on the interior due to the fact I plan on closing it up. It will only be visible from the door openings. I believe this is one of Brett's castings but it didn't come with this kit, maybe a left over from The Shipyard or Foss Landing.



The other workbench casting, painted and weathered the same as the other.


Here you can see the long workbench in place. I still need to add some details to the walls and under the workbenches.



Here is the other side view. The floor jack is from Evergreen Hill Designs I believe.


The other workbench installed on the back wall.


Here is a overhead shot. I added some debris to the top of the car, the canvas tarp was made using a Kleenex and colored with Floquil Depot Buff. I wanted to make the car extra dirty and give the impression it hasn't moved in some time. The second floor will not be visible once everything is put together.

Thanks for checking in.

-Steve

brownbr

The belt on the compressor really makes it look real. Great overall scene in the works here.

nextceo

The little scene you created looks awesome. I really like the jack you added as well as the tarps.

Alan

KKarns

Great scene Steve. Love that first shot looking through the door. Well conceived and beautifully done...Ken

Geezerbill

I agree with everyone here Steve. Very convincing scene and wonderful modeling! Everything looks so real. Thanks for the update.

Bill

SteveCuster

Thanks everyone.
I plan on using your tips for lighting the interior Alan. I had to order some shades from ngineering.

admin

Coming along extremely well Steve. Love the car up on jacks. So simple yet so effective.

SteveCuster

Thanks Brett.

SteveCuster

I spent some time today reading about how to actually use my camera. It's a Canon EOS 600D. By manual setting the aperture way up I could pull everything into the field of depth. I also set the focus to manual and shot off a tripod. I really know nothing about photography but now is a good time learn I suppose. Let me know what you think.




I haven't come close to finishing detailing the interior, this is just for the photos.
Thanks
-Steve

KCSTrains

Steve, great continued progress. Thanks for reminding of how to make an oily rag. I also like the other details you include along the way. It's very helpful. Phil