O'Neills Fabrication/Quincy Salvage

SteveCuster

KKarns

Love the roof, simple yet effective and the extra step Brett takes with all his kits...the sagging ridge line built into the roof card! Your finish on the roof is perfect, not over done and looks purposeful. Like it...Ken

SteveCuster

Thanks Ed, Thanks Ken.

admin

Lighting adds so much, great job!

SteveCuster

Thanks Brett

SteveCuster

I added the roof sign today. I built it the same as the main roof sign on O'Neills. I was torn with how it would sit on a sagging roof, I'm still not sure if it looks right to me.



With the lights on.


The rear framework for the sign supports.

Thanks for checking in.

-Steve

SteveCuster

I ended up taking the sign off the roof, it didn't look right to me.

SteveCuster

That was the problem with it in my eyes Ed, the sign looked bad against the sagging roof.

CarlLaskey

Steve
Why not put it right over the door that way people can read it before they enter the shop and know what to expect the sign looks great.
Carl

Wes

Perhaps put the sign rusting away in the grass somwhere Steve. Leave a rust stain or 2 and a bracket on the roof to show where it once stood before the roof started to sag.

SteveCuster

Carl, I may add it to the siding. I think the roof won't work but maybe the siding or on a fence. I plan on adding the small sign above the front door, I don't want to overdo it with signage. I'll play with some ideas tonight.

Ed, you're right I don't really want to cover too much siding, I'm going to try to break up and weather the sign a bit and see what it looks like.

SteveCuster

I was thinking that as an idea Wes. I think I may change the sign to say Quincy Salvage if I'm going to really weather it up and leave it as scrap, implying ONeills was purchased from Quincy.

admin

Steve, I would remove it from the roof. It is competing (in a bad way) with the sag in the roof and neither the sag or sign is winning... I would temporarily tape it on the wall and see how it looks. That long empty space above the door is perfect. The sliding door track is providing a horizontal "anchor" that the sign can take advantage of. Yeah, it sucks to cover over such awesome siding but at least give it a try, take a pic and post the results!

SteveCuster

I removed the roof sign, I played with it on the front but I think it's too similar to the sign on the side of the building and too close. It looked unnatural to me. I added the small sign above the door and the chimney on the rear. I also had the challenge of covering up my glue marks from the roof sign.


I think the sign above the door is one of my favorite details in the kit. It's a simple detail but really helps make the building look real. I built the sign off the instructions but in the kit it was to be done with a Quincy Salvage dry transfer, I made a small sign in Serif Drawplus to replace it.




I added the smokestack on the rear roof. It's made with a piece of styrene tubing. I will add some support wires later I think.

Thanks for checking in.
-Steve

Wes

Nice one steve. I love that sign.

Is that serif drawplus an ms word font?

SteveCuster

Thanks Wes. No it's a free program I've been using to make signs.

nextceo

Looks awesome Steve. It has a nice dusty look to the building...

KKarns

Well done Steve, I like the smaller sign and the way you mounted it. Looking mighty fine...

SteveCuster

Thanks Ed, Alan and Ken

brownbr

Looks really good.

geoawelch

Nice save, Steve

SteveCuster

Thanks Bryan and George

SteveCuster

A little update today, I started moving along with all the castings.



I sorted everything based on what type of base coat I wanted. I like to use Rust-Oleum Camouflage Sand for castings representing wood, Camo Black for any resin castings representing metal and I use JAX Pewter Black to patina any castings representing metal that are white metal. Several hundred castings here, Brett's kits always have a ton of the highest quality castings and since I'm combining 2 kits for this diorama I have twice as much. I may not use all of them but I will paint of them and pick and choose what I will use.



I put all barrels and drums on toothpicks. I just drilled a small hole with a dremel, I didn't glue the toothpicks in, the taper held them in place good enough for me.



Here is an overall shot after priming everything. It took me quite a few hours to get to this point. I let everything dry overnight.


I'm still getting the hang of photographing the smaller detail parts clearly. This drum was painted with Boxcar Red and Bone from the SW paintset. After a few coats of paint I dipped the casting in alcohol and smacked it with a wire brush, I followed Brett's video on the website. The casting was dusted with a few different rust shades of chalk. The technique is very easy to do.


This casting was weathered the same way.





This barrel was weathered with A&I and dusted with chalk. The band was painted with Burnt Umber craft paint. I used SW Grimy Black for the gears followed by a drybrushing of SW Tarnished Steel. In the past I painted details representing metal with Old Silver or similar paint, I was never real happy with the results, I found painting them gray or black and drybrushing silver on the edges makes them look much more realistic to me. I think I learned that from Karl Allison. The bottle is SW Meadow Green.

I'm getting some good practice painting and detailing castings. I hope by the time I'm done with this batch my skills will have improved a bit. I've built many kits, all different manufacturers and nobody really comes close to the quality and quantity of castings in Brett's kits.

Thanks for checking in.
-Steve

MitchN

Steve,
I did not have good results using the SW paint and the wire brush tapping method. Had to use craft paint. Your results are very good. That first barrel you have pictured on the cap looks great.

Mitch

KKarns

I echo your take on the generous, high quality casting Brett provides in his kits. Nothing else even close. Your work on them looks great and well organized. Brett's kits are constantly evolving to provide the molder innovative techniques and details more realistic and prototypical than ever before. His shift to more individual castings, allowing scenes to be constructed uniquely and individualized to meet the style and needs of the modeler, was a visionary and sound decision. His laser cut detail parts, which are so evident in the O'Neills kit, are wonderful to work with and the results are amazing...sorry you got me going Steve!

Again, castings are looking great and I love your workshop space. That helps to explain your excellent modeling...Ken

KKarns

Mitch, you may have let the paint dry too long. I use the SWSM/ Reaper paints to good effect and although I prefer a sharp tooth pick and at times my #11 blade to distress the casting, if I let the paint dry too much it is more difficult to remove. I usually start working the paint just after it's dry to the touch. Just a thought, and if I appear to be full of it...just disregard...if not sure how to do that, text my wife!

SteveCuster

Thanks Mitch and Ken.

Mitch, I had a hard time working the castings until I dipped them in alcohol, that softened up the paint enough that it made them chip easily. I also had to experiment with a few different wire brushes. I ended up using a very stiff toothbrush style wire brush from Home Depot in the welding aisle. I prefer a round brush for pipes when weathering stripwood. I did find a bit of white paint transfer if I wasn't careful but I scraped it off with a toothpick.

Ken, I can see a definite difference between castings from the old Quincy and the new O'Neills. The quality is great in both kits but Quincy includes quite a few bulk junk pile castings Brett seemed to get away from in the newer kits. Lots of individual details in the new kits. I haven't really touched any of the laser cut details but I saw your results with them and they look great.

I try to clean my work area as much as I can during projects, especially now that I'm using a lot more chalks. The chalks get everywhere if I'm not careful. Half of my basement is my workshop and half is the layout room. Each room is about 40x 25.Too many pipes and ductwork to close the ceiling in on the workshop side. The basement has enough centipedes and spiders that my wife wants nothing to do with it, works out well for me.

KKarns

You'll love working with those laser cut details. As an example, I didn't like detailing the white metal wood pallets and to model them broken was difficult. Brett's new pallets are a joy to work with and modeling them broken and well used is a breeze.

SteveCuster

Just the hand truck alone looks great. I agree about the pallets, they can be hard to make convincing when they are white metal.

SteveCuster

I've been making a bit of progress on the castings. I have most of them painted except the larger bulk piles. The castings supplied with both of these kits are incredible. I wanted to take my time and do them justice. All castings were painted using the SW paint set from Reaper.


Here is the different piles of finished castings. Lots of cool details here. I took a few close up shots of some of my favorite castings.



This tall water tank is one of my favorites. The wood grain detail in the casting is unbelievable. The casting is resin, I primed it with khaki spray paint. I added a wash of A&I, painted the bands with SW Roof Brown and the metal paint was done with SW Grimy Black. I dusted everything with brown colored chalks of various colors.



The scale face was done by downloading a picture of a scale from the internet, making it super small and cutting it out.


This is the picture I used.



I plan to have this one sitting outside so I added extra grime on the bottom. I figured a wooden cabinet outdoors in a salvage yard would be pretty grimy.










I'll post more pictures as I get some of the mini scenes completed.

Thanks for checking in. I plan on starting to finish the base this weekend. Maybe even get a building or 2 glued down.

-Steve