My first SierraWest model



  • It has been a frustrating few days with the lights. First I had to get the bolts to wrap the tubing around which I finely found at a local Ace Hardware. Which was a blessing in disguise. I found two cans of the black camouflage paint. Then bending the tube was a challenge. On the third try I came up with this,
    I t turned out the bending was not that big of a problem compared to getting the wire through the goose neck. I found that twisting the wires together in a tight twist and then sliding them into the tube helped. I would push the wire in a little bit at a time until it stopped. Then I would pivot the goose neck on the wire. Then try to push more wire into the tube. If the wire did not move I would pull a fraction of an inch out and pivot the tube again and the try to push more wire into the tube. I kept doing this until the wire made all the way through the tube. Then with some paint and chalk it looks like this,IMG_1008resized
    After about four hours of fiddling I now have two of these goose neck lights for outside the truck repair.
  • I feel your pain Randy. After spending way too much time and ruining alot of tubing, this is why I bought them from EvansDesigns for about 8 bucks each.
    I give you credit though... yours look super nice!!!
  • Glad you got it worked out Randy! Those are gonna look great all lit up!

    For those unfamiliar with this kit I wanted to mention the lighting and lighting products are not part of the kit and are not SW products.
  • Bryan, I took your advise about the floor. I started with a wash of IA. Then some thinned adamantium paint. I followed with brushed on 408.3 and 408.5 chalk. This is what I ended up with.IMG_1004resized
    I glued the interior wall in place. The two boxes and yellow jack are now glued to the floor. The little spot of glue in the interior doorway has been scraped off and re chalked.IMG_1005resized
    The workbench on the other side of the floor had some details glued under the bench. I am thinking about replacing the door on the cabinet. It looks to heavy in these pictures.IMG_1006resized
    I think the next project will be to run wires up behind the boards at each of the two corners yet to be glued and the end of the interior wall. Again all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Randy
  • Beautiful work Randy! Love all the details, so much to take in. Floor looks good, well done.
  • Randy
    May I suggest that you put the wire through before you bend the tubing.
  • edited March 2022
    Looking great Randy, the floor is suitably 'nasty' and fits well with the surrounding grime.

    I echo Carls comments on the wire insertion, it was my first thought, but, I've never done it myself so I initially held my comment back.

    As you stated you are open to them, so, I only have two minor suggestions,

    1 Eliminate the door on the cabinet, as you said, it 'feels' too heavy. I dont think it's needed as it subtracts more from the visual than it adds. If you really want a door there personally I would eliminate the bracing and just have a single 1x12 or an offcut 1/64 ply cut to size... for me, the bracing is the visual distraction, not the door.

    2 Dust some 408.3 along the bottom edge (on the floor)of the bench and up where the details meet the floor. Do this with a tiny detail brush to blend the verticle items down into the floor, this will eliminate the 'stark' line between, ... such as the yellow gas tank, and the boxes, even the red jack to the floor. It will give a subtle flow between them and give a slight shadow effect.

    Some superb work you are displaying and my suggestions are just ideas for you to think about.
  • I echo Carl's suggestion. Insert the wire in the tube before you bend it. Much easier. That is how Evans Design does it also....Rick
  • The lights will get easier the more you do them. The suggestions above will help. You are right to always twist the wires as this will make the entire process easier. I also tie a knot at the end of the wires so I know which wires are a pair when connecting to the board...avoids potential confusion.

    Floor is nice and dirty. If you need to add footpaths, a light sanding in select areas can do that.
  • Cark and Karl, I thought about that. However, then I would have to cut the tube to length first. flair the ends, and put on the lamp shade and escutcheons first. This might make things even more difficult.
    Bryan, at this point it a mute point for this build as I only need two goose necks and I have them.
    Karl, I am going to remove the door to the cabinet. It is just a distraction. I also will take your suggestion about the 408.3 chalk. The yellow gas tank may need a little piece of wood that was "trapped" under when it was set in place. I did not get it all the way down on the floor and it is glued to the other tanks. Thanks every body for the comments and suggestions, they are appreciated. Randy
  • I've never done it Randy but, this is the way I would do my first attempt.

    Cut the tube about half inch too long, thread the wire (with the bulb attached) through the shade first and then ,starting from the (future) shade end of the tube and just enough to poke out the (future) wall end.
    Bend the tube to shape having any excess tubing at the wall end. This can either be pushed deeper into the structure or cut off.
    Once bent continue to pull through the wire until you have the bulb and shade in place, superglue or epoxy to secure.
    Job done.

    One day I'll get around to it, haha.

    Great work so far.
  • I don't know what kind of wire you're using but a small gauge magnet wire (the type of wire used in windings of electric motors) pushes through the tubing pretty easily. These wires look like there is no insulation on them, but they have a clear coating on them that acts as the insulator. The coating needs to be scraped off (with an X-acto knife blade) or sanded off at the tip to get to the conductor for soldering.
  • Thanks Karl. Next SW kit I will try that. The rest of the lights for this kit will all have straight hangers. Jim, I am using magnet wire #38 AWG from Ngeneering. I was just having trouble getting it to go around the bend in the tube.
    Karl, I took your suggestions about the floor and the cabinet. Here are two pictures to show the results. The first shows the yellow gas tank with the piece of scrap wood caught under it. The second shows the doorless cabinet and the details under the workbench blinded in better with the 408.3 chalk. Again, as always thanks for all your comments and suggestions. Randy IMG_1009resized
  • Nice bench details Randy. That's going to work out to a really nice interior when its all said and done!
  • Thanks Ken. I am trying to not make too many mistakes.
  • No mistakes that I can see in those pics Randy,
    everything looks superb, beautiful work.
  • edited March 2022
    Oh, an I like the little wood 'wedge' under the tank... it's something I would (and have) done in reality to stop something from falling over due to an uneven floor. So, it looks perfectly practical and rational, at least to me. Great solution.
    The blending worked out well, subtle, but you have eliminated the sharp lines and things now look like they are 'together as one', nicely done.
  • A very impressive interior
  • Randy, it's looking good. I wanted to ask you what size is the tubing you used for your lights? My kit is missing some parts but I'm trying to make do with some things I already have on hand. I got one light anchor so I'm trying to figure out some way to replace that for the other light. The light anchor I have looks like it will receive a 1/16-inch tubing, but I didn't have any wire that size in my kit. The picture you posted of the light looks like it is smaller tubing than 1/16 but I've never seen a smaller tubing than that. Maybe it's just the picture. Thanks in advance.
  • Jim, none of the things I am using for the lighting comes with Brett's kits. Lighting products come from Tim at Ngineering. The tube is .025 outside diameter. He also has several other sizes from .018 to .095 inches. It is very thin walled and made from stainless steel. I hope this helps. Randy
  • Yes it does, thanks
  • Randy, I guess I understand better why you had so much difficulty threading that wire through the tubing. That's some pretty small gauge wire (.004 in. diameter) and small tubing. I've been using 30AWG (.01 in. diameter) magnet wire but have always threaded it through 1/16 K&S tubing (the smallest tubing I could find), so that is much easier. When I order the tubing, I'm going to get some of the 38AWG too once I figure out the current draw of my lighting project.
  • Jim, The wire from Ngineering is more than enough to handle the current for one LED.
  • Bryan and Karl, thanks for the nice comments.

    I had hit a snag the last few days because I am waiting for some things from Brett. I have been doing some prep work for the roofs. I cut the corrugated roofing material for the main roof, cut the tar paper for the shed, cut and stained the purlins for the main roof, and finished and installed the front and back wall goose neck lights. I also decided that since I was going to use purlins for the main building and not the cardboard supplied with the kit I would make a wood under layment for the shed roof.IMG_1015resizrd
    This is the under side of the roof as I forgot to take a picture of the top side. The wood was stained with gray and white chalk with a little blick on a few boards. I wanted to keep the color light as the boards would be under the cover of the tar paper.
    I then installed the tar paper tearing it in places to expose the boards underneath. I then used a sanding sponge to lightly sand the top of the tar paper. this helps to bring out the wrinkles and seams. IMG_1013resized
    I then used 234,3 and 408.9 dry chalk to dust the roof and brushed down from top to bottom.IMG_1014resized
    I may go back with the sanding sponge and take off a little more of the black at the seams like the seam that shows up just under the large tear on the left side. I like the wood showing through the tears in the tar paper. I am also thinking about adding a patch of a different color tar paper somewhere to add a little more interest. May be a dark green. Or do you think that might be to much with the tears and boards showing through?
    The last two things are the goose neck lights. I drilled two #71 holes, threaded the wires through, then pushed the tubes through, straightened up the tube, and then glued it with a little ACC. The shade is an O scale 18 inch stamping from Ngineering. The escutcheons are N scale 18 inch lamp shade. I am using a nine volt battery to power the lights at this point.
    The front wall light.
    The back wall light.
    The lights should be brighter when I get all of them hooked up to the twelve volt power supply. Thanks for taking your time to read and look. All comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Randy
  • edited March 2022
    fantastic progress Randy, and results. that last pic is terrific. I like the way the lower sash is tilted from where it is supported on th right but sagging on the left.
    Hinges and details on the door look great. Really nice work.
  • Looking good. I like the wood showing through the tarpaper also.
  • Thanks Karl and Bryan, for your kind comments.
  • Question for all. I've never seen "tar paper" or "roofing felt" used as the primary roofing material, only as an underlayment, and I've also never known it to be any coloring other than black. Is "tar paper" just what different locations use for "rolled roofing" or am I mistaken? Curious, thanks.
    Randy, your technique looks great. I don't think I'd add a different color patch. The lights turned out great, nice job. I love adding lights to the structures, it adds so much and brings the scene to life.
  • Jim Thanks for the comment on the lights. It is nice to hear especially after all the time I have spent on them. You are right normally it would be used under shingles or some other roofing material. Just tar paper would be used on a shack or shed where time or money were a consideration. Get up quick and keep at least most of the water out. Thanks, Randy
  • "Tar" paper was used as roofing in many locations in the northeast. Most are familiar with 15 or 25 pound felt tar paper for underlayment. There are heavier weights that had been used as main roofing, up to 50 pound felt that was overlapped and possibly tarred to seal the roof...wooden battens were also used. There was also rubberized rolled roofing. The red color we occasionally see is rosin impregnated....all would need regular replacement every few years to keep weather out...
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