My first SierraWest model

edited January 8 in O Scale Builds
I have always liked the looks of Brett’s models. Even though I model in S/Sn3 when I saw the Truck Repair kit I knew I wanted to build it. So I asked another local modeler here in St. Louis, Rich Rands, if he would like the model on his layout. Of course he said yes so I ordered my first SierraWest kit.

As of now I have the castings primed, the sidling colored, three of the wall frames built, and about a dozen casting painted. The only problem so far is the pewter casting came out of the Rio Grande pewter oxidizer gray not black. Any suggestions as to why or what to do would be greatly appreciated.

Once I figure out how to get pictures on the forum I will post some pictures of my progress. Thanks Randy


  • IMG_0820

    I hope this works. Here should be a picture the colored siding for my Truck Repair..
  • Great start on the wood.

    Are you happy with the color of the metal castings? If so, no need to go darker.
  • Thanks brownbr for your nice comment. I am not sure about the metal castings they are powdery. I have not tried buffing them yet. I hope that helps. Here is a picture.IMG_0817
    Some of them have a brown cast rather than gray.
  • edited January 2
    Nice grey colour variation on the boards.

    PCB echant will turn them really black, I've used it before. I dont think I did it on the little hammers and wrenches but bigger things were fine. Do a test one and make sure to put it straight into water afterwards to stop the reaction.
  • edited January 2
    Randy, we must have cross posted at the same time earlier.
    The powder is just a residue, they look fine.
    As I take them out of the water I usually scrub them with an old toothbrush to clean them off and eliminate the residue, when dry it works ok too.
    The buffing will also make a big difference.
  • Randy, keep going your doing great!
    Many great modelers here if you need help.
    But so far you are on the right track
  • Karl, again thinks for the comment. i will give them a good scrub and let you know what happens. I also want to thank you for your post " Painting those Details. the Basics " and posting Advanced Painting and Weathering of Details by Kevin O'Neill. Here are a pair of pictures of castings I have painted from the Truck Repair. Thanks Again Randy
    IMG_0831 (1)
    IMG_0830 (1)
  • edited January 3
    Great looking effects on the ramp and barrels Randy, love the way you have the diamond tread effect showing on the ramp, nicely done, and the scratching and weathering on the barrels looks great.
    Fine, sharp, distinct, scratches and the rusting is not over done.... I went too far on my last set of barrels and wasn't happy, I need to back it up to where yours are.

    Looking forward to more.

    Thanks for the thanks, I hope those two threads are helping you, and others.

  • Those look good. As said by Karl, the ramp tread and barrel rust look great.
  • Thanks Karl and brownbr for the kind remarks. I now have all the outside walls framed and tar papered. I had a few glue blobs that I had to scrape off that left a white spot. these I colored with a 90% warm gray Prismacolor art marker. I also used a lite umber marker to touch up the color of the wood. I have used these markers for years to color wood. The second picture shows two wall sections from a roundhouse colored with the art markers.

    I think I will try to start on the siding today and maybe paint a few more castings. Thanks again for your comments. Randy
  • edited January 5
    Walls are looking good Randy.
    I love the look of the tarpaper waterproofing on the inside of the walls that Brett put into this kit.
    Good save and good advice for others on the prismacolour markers for touch up, great tip.
    I've used them in the distant past to colour board ends but find chalk easier on them these days.

    Keep the updates coming...
  • Thanks for the comment. I am going to have to agree with you about the chalk being easier. The brownish wood in the second picture in my last post was the result of using six different colors of markers. It took a lot of time and effort. Also the markers do not work well if the wood has been distressed. The wood for the crane took about ten or fifteen minutes.
    Here are two more pictures. The first is the siding on the right wall of the truck repair. Of course I need to add the battens and the gable end. I did all of it with the ends of wood that I accidently broke while I was wiping off the chalk.
    The second picture is the new toy I got last year. It has a protractor so that any angle is able to be sanded repeatedly. It also has a knob that can be used to set the length of a board. I used that on the studs in the frame work. Will I am going back and work on the left wall. Thanks, Randy
  • edited January 5
    Seems like you are on a mission Randy... keep up the momentum, I for one am enjoying it.

    (Great job on the knots, perfect size and 'K'not overpowering...)
  • Outstanding Randy, love where this is going.
  • Great job! Wall color and texture looks great. I got that sander last year after a discussion on this forum, and have used it extensively. It has become an indispensable tool.
  • Welcome aboard Randy. Excellent start.
  • Thank you Brett, Karl, Tom, and Emery. Yes Karl I am on a mission. I want to do my best work but I also want to have it finished by the last of April. I want to take it and show it off at the SLANG meet ( St. Louis Area Narrow Gauge ). Tom, I agree about the sander. I also have a Jarmac and have not touched it since I got this one. I will work on another wall later today. Thanks again everyone, Randy
  • I have three more pictures of my truck repair kit. A few posts ago I said that I used Primacolor art markers to hide glue blobs on the tar paper. This first photo shows some white spots where I scraped off some glue.
  • Now then the second picture. This is the back of the same wall after I use the Prismacolor art marker to color the white spots.
  • For some reason the second picture will not load. I will try again tomorrow. randy
  • Randy great work on the details and the walls. You are just motoring through this build.
  • Thanks Joel, I just followed the instructions in the manual and yours when you did the official Truck Repair build. The wood color chart that you made was a great help. And I must say you and KarlA have to much time on your hands. Between your key ring and his eye glasses.
    Brownbr, the derrick was a Rusty Stumps kit. Again I built it for Rich Rands. I will post some pictures later.
    IMG_0840 rwsized
    Ok, here is the second picture as promised. the marker got rid of the white spots.
    I guess the old saying is correct. When in doubt read the instructions. I went back and read and followed the instructions about posting pictures by Bill.
    Now for the good side of the ends of the two end wall of the truck repair.
    IMG_0841 resized
  • For the third time here is the picture of the glue spots. hidden with the artist marker. if this doesent work I give up. Thanks Randy
    IMG_0840 rwsized
  • Tarpaper turned out nice.
  • Thanks brownbr, I am going to do the front or back wall today. Randy
  • Tarpaper came out great!
  • Thanks Pappy
    My third wall siding is shown below. However, I think I am going down to the workshop and start doing some painting of castings. I will reread KarlA's posts on painting some of the shelves. Thanks for looking, Randy

  • Catching up on your superb work here Randy, and welcome to the forum. Your wood work and detailing are terrific. Love the saw banding and your board color variation. Great stuff.
  • Thanks KKarns, I appreciate your kind words.
    Here is what I did tonight. finished up three trash cans and two boxes. I did several other castings with CA. I wand to do a few of the castings now so that I don't have all of them to do at once. thanks Randy IMG_0863resized

  • I get that Randy. I started out many years ago doing all my castings at once and have since changed my strategy somewhat. For some time now I will work up my castings and details as I need them for each "mini-scene" as I go. The reason for this is that I like the scene to dictate the finish of the various details. I will place the details that have been primed in a staging fashion and then decide many of the colors and finishes for that scene or area I'm working on. Some of this may be very subtile and also contributes to how slow I model! Lol. In other words...I prime in mass and detail in minutiae!

    Am enjoying your thread here, well done.
Sign In or Register to comment.