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By Way of Introduction

I've waited my whole life to build a kit like Brett produces. As I teenager I drooled over the SS Limited cast offerings during the 1970s, unable to afford a single one. But now I feel as the mail will soon rain railroad modeler's joy. Looking forward to beginning my kit. I've been working on some structures and on my 3rd floor pike, which is set on the Maine Coast in a defeated and broken town. It has been called "a drinking town with a fishing problem." Cheers! Ec
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Comments

  • Welcome Eric. Please post pictures of whatever you're about to build. We're all very exited to look at new buids. Whatever scale.
  • Welcome Eric, glad you're here on our forum!
  • edited August 12
    Thanks, guys. And a few photos. Note: the railroad is not even close to being finished. Really rough at the moment.

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  • And a few more photos, some just showing weathering ideas. The wood stove is meant to look over-fired. That is when it gets WAY too hot. Not a good idea. Do not try this at home! I'm from Maine, so we know about these things.

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  • Welcome aboard Eric. Very kind of you to share photos of some damn nice modeling.
    ed
  • Thanks, Engine. The modeling I've seen on this site is superlative. Delighted to be rolling! I rode freights from 1974 to 1985 and that puts railroading deep in your heart.
  • Welcome aboard...all the pics look great but I especially am drawn to the water tank
    Terry
  • I cannot take credit for the cab. This is my buddy Lee T. (I've been advised not to share last names.)
  • edited August 12
    Eric,

    Welcome to the SierraWest forum. Your photos show some great modeling ability and attention to detail. The sort of stuff we all thrive on here. Several nice builds you have shared, like the 1942 Ford. the elevated crossing tower, the signals and water tank to mention a few. Sweat stuff!
    What scale? My guess is 1/48th scale based on the vehicle in the last photo. It looks like a build of a Tamiya 1942 Ford staff car kit. The perfect kit to make into a taxi. Love the chair as well. I can just picture the occupant taking long draws on a cigar and listening to the radio on a table next to him (kinda like my Irish grandpa). Looking forward to seeing more of your modeling here.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ (The heart of the Sonoran Desert)
  • Great to have you with us. I too love to receive notice when I'm about to receive a SW kit, but in the meanwhile I find myself reading all the previous construction articles on Brett's site, researching old "glassplate" photos from the era which I model, and trying to save a few $s for the next gem that will be just over the horizon. Looks like there was enough coffee for the entire crew in that pot!
  • I only model in 1/48th scale. Frankly even HO makes me a bit dizzy it is so small. But as a teen I scratch-built HOn3. Some of my might like this article: https://www.penbaypilot.com/article/eric-green-fathers-wing-foils-and-model-contests/48069

    Dave, I'm mostly Celtic myself. It comes with its flaws, but I think the advantages outweigh those. The chair is an old narrow gauge passenger car seat. I still love narrow gauge and since I'm a Mainer how can I not love 2-foot? I do however model in On30. If something look right, I could care less about the rest of it being EXACTLY correct.


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  • I do like what I see !!! Thanks for posting.
  • Love that stove casting and what a great finish on the metal chair.
  • edited August 12
    The most recent photos. I just added the long oil tank. In 1956 every Maine structure had at least one. Who did the saw mill machinery painted an acid green? Really great weathering. I keep trying to find it again and I can't. Thanks!

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  • Welcome to the forum Eric, some nice pics of nice modeling shown already.
    Looking forward to seeing your build of the SW kit. Which one is it?

    Thanks for the intro and keep us up to date with your SW kit progress.

    Karl.A
  • Karl, I will be building the Irish Celtic propane tank iron yard. BEYOND excited. One thing I might do is hire a builder who is a master carpenter. Ha, ha, ha!
  • Karl, this is a photo I pulled from the same batch of work. This really appealed to me.

  • Photo is reluctant to load.


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  • edited August 12
    Thank you. That's in my thread Eric.

    Karl.A
  • Karl, simply spot on in my opinion. If you don't mind, since I've never modeled machinery, may I copy your method? Are there any other colors besides green, although I love that acid green right out of the Edward Hopper song book. Which thread is that in, please?

    My buddy here in Maine is Earle Michell who logged the Maine woods for 20 years. He is 70 and still has the back! Lovely guy who would answer any question.
  • Thank you Eric,
    its in the second thread I listed up above for you.
    I'm pretty sure I outlined the 'method' in the thread.

    Any questions just ask, there are many great modelers here,
    happy to answer or assist.

    Karl.A
  • Am I to presume you mean the "O'Niells Fabrication" kit in O scale ?
  • Of course! Not sure what I will call mine yet. Do you live in England?
  • Actually, unlikely unless you go to sleep late.
  • What do you use to polish the castings?

    How and when is the green paint applied?

    Would other colors like orange be correct for the era.

    A lot of people do not understand the gradual advancement of colored paints. Base pigments for certain colors were too expensive to make until chemistry found a way. Not sure bright greens were offered until about 1960. Note the change in car paint, kitchen paint, house paint, etc. Look at paint in the 1850s. Do you see bright colors used extensively? Paint is mainly the binder to which ground pigment is added. Artist paints are the same. Certain blues for instance were extremely expensive because precious stone was being ground to create them.
  • Eric, you are a refreshing addition. I along with others look forward to your contributions.
    ed
  • The very detailed instructions of Brett's manual will guide you through every step of when to polish, how to polish, what to use, when to paint. Have no fear, read the instructions, follow them explicitly and you will have no problems. The manual is your bible for the build.

    Indeed you are correct Eric, bright colours were used as a display of oppulance during the 1800's, red especially. Due to the transparency of the pigments.It was therefore much more expensive.
    Hence the fact that most wealthy estates, palaces and such are decorated with deep red walls and red linens/fabrics... to show their wealth. To make the statement.

    Into the 20th century, advancements were made, most machinery I have seen from that period is either black, grey or green. They seem to be the predominant colours, although by no means exclusive.

    Personally in my modeling I prefer the green because primarily it creates a good contrast with the metal base/oil marks/rust etc. It dulls down really well to scale and doesn't jump out, it provides good modeling opportunities without bein garish or overpowering in a scene.

    Black just is hard to get any definition or contrast, grey was a very 'period' colour and I don't like to limit myself to a timeline... yellows/oranges etc for me are too bright and over power a scene, maybe one or two small items, heavily dulled down, but that's about it.


    Karl.A


  • edited August 14
    My buddy Earle's explanation of the small wooden disk on the double bladed saw: "The log passes by the saw on this side and above the nut holding the lower saw blade on the arbor. That disk separates the newly sliced board or slab from the log."
  • edited August 13
    Yes Eric, that's exactly what I had said. and how I had explained it in the thread.
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