HO Scale Brass & Iron Foundry Official Forum Build

brownbr

Or dual gauge

KKarns

Thanks Joel...

Appreciate that Bryan. All my builds have been narrow gauge except for a couple very early ones. I think I only used standard gauge only on my Water Tank and Storage Shed and Duluth, all the rest were narrow gauge.

Dave_S

Ken,

Nice tutorial on detailing track. After all, "Track Is A Model Too." Prototypical ties and tie spacing along with rail size and details like rail joiners, ballast type and color are also models in their own way.

Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ

Wes

Wow Ken. So much detial in something so small. Blows my mind.

That coin was also minted the year after I was born HAHA

KCSTrains

Ken, I would have gone completely bonkers if I put this much detail into my track work. I'm glad you do it so I can admire, but I'll stick to the basics. Can't wait to see your finish work and scenery. Phil

KKarns

Hey Dave, right you are about the track being a model in itself.
Here are the pictures that I was sending you in case you didn't get them. These are from my Loco and Service Shops build.





Wes, thanks my man...I see you're taking a jab reminding me how old I am or how young you are...either one I loose...lol.

Thanks Phil. One of my favorite parts of a SWSM build. When all the structures are done and you sit back and pull it all together!

Dave_S

Ken,

Thanks for posting those photos.

For those interested in modeling track more prototypically I recommend a book by Mike Cougill, "Detailing Track". [ISBN: 978-0-9746143-2-8]

I have also included an example of different tie spacing used by the PRR. Each RR had their own specs, so this is just an example of one practice.





Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ

vietnamseabee

Thanks Dave....I’m going to do an Amazon search for that book
Terry

KKarns

I have completed the hand laid track work save for final detailing once the diorama is well under way. Being a foundry, I felt a dark, sooty and oily track would be appropriate. Rail joiners and spike heads make all the difference...

vietnamseabee

Very nice

Terry

Robert.G

Very Well succeeded.! What a nice thread to follow.

brownbr

Suitably grungy.

sdrees

Hi Ken,

What do you use for the oily look? It must be more than just black chalk.

Joel

Love the care and detail that goes into every step. Feels oh so guilty about using flex track.

KKarns

Thanks much Terry.

Appreciate that George, glad you enjoy checking in.

Dr. Grunge thanks you Bryan...I can now rest satisfied that I have grunged something once more!

Hey Stephen, it's just chalk but the application may make the difference. I put down the first subtile layer of chalk then dribble some alcohol over the area so the chalk kind of "soaks in"...then when that's dry I go over it again with a bit more without the alcohol, I then run my finger down the center of the ties to give it a slight sheen like oil...sort of...

Thanks Joel, nothin wrong with flex track particularly if you are going to have working motive power!

skywatcher

Ken your work is second to none, and how you put together Bretts kits is what puts you in the Master Class . " Gulp " i never pick on anybodys work but we always say tell me what you see so we may all improve upon . the joining plates for the rails are outstanding but the plates on the inside of the rail might make the train jump off the track because thats where the wheel hub hangs down . pleases don't take offense just something i see. Tim

KKarns

Oh for sure Tim, well done, you have a good critical eye....to make them fit clear inside the rail on that code 55 light rail, the strips would have to be so thin the ndws wouldn't hardly fit!...all for looks...as this is not a working track and will not have running trains. Kind of like nail holes on 1:87 siding, at scale those holes would be easily 1 inch in diameter!lol.

vietnamseabee

Tim....stopped in to metro trains this afternoon and saw some of your modeling work....very nice
Terry

vietnamseabee

In real world tracklaying are rail joints opposite each other or are the joints staggered by perhaps a half a length of rail
Terry

ironmountainlumber

Fantastic track. I can just smell the smoke from the foundry and steam engines spotting their loads!
Jim

Dave_S

Terry,

In the two examples of rail joint practices I found (the PRR and NP Ry) both railroads followed the practice of staggering the rail joints so that the joint on one rail would not be opposite the other. I can recall seeing freight cars (along the CRI&P and GT) rock and roll, clickity-clack, their way along the track as one side of the car passed over a joint and then the other causing alternating dips and the rocking motion.

Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ

Dave_S

Ken,

Another grand slam of a build with your track work just enhancing the realism of what we would have witnessed along the right of way had we been riding in the engine, coach, dome car or caboose (waycar for us CB&Q modelers) of a freight or passenger train. As others on the forum have rightly observed, "It's all in the details". The little things we often overlook because they just belong there and we have seen them over and over again so we just glance over them, but remove these details and right away we notice something is missing. This is just the sort of scene I can recall as the Twin City Zephyr would have been arriving at East Dubuque, IL in the outskirts of town where the small industries abounded along the banks of the Mighty Mississippi.

Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ

KKarns

Will do Ed...thanks

Hello Jim! Shoot, I didn't see you when I was walking the tracks by the Foundry...
Appreciate the thoughts...

Thanks Dave...cool how a bit of grungy old track congers up memories of old railroads and the sights and smells!

Have glued the Pattern Shop, Tempering Shed, and Repair Shop complex down on the diorama and spread the first layer of dirt around this area. I also installed the Pattern Shop rear dock. Take care in making sure the dock is just below the sliding track doors with a slight space to give the apperance the doors would roll free. My first trial fit the dock was touching the bottom of the doors so I just took a paint brush handle round end and dimpled the base where the dock legs go to lower the dock just a bit...worked perfect.

Featured here is the first laser cut detail...the four wheel dock cart. This little gem was easy to build and I made mine quite grungy...imagine that!

I'm pulling all the resin and white metal castings for detailing the complex as I move around the structures. Note that the Foundry is not in place and glued down yet. It is imperative NOT to get in a hurry and glue the Foundry down as you need it out of the way to have access to detail the concrete transfer dock area (where the cart is sitting in the pictures below).

KKarns

Thanks Ed, nice hearing from you.

KCSTrains

Ken, this is where the fun begins. I wish I was there to help. This is my absolute favorite part. Have fun. Phil

KKarns

Thanks Phil...this is a great place to be and I enjoy the detail work to bring it all together...I do however, get slowed down with all the detail work I feel I need to do!...see below...

KKarns

As I mentioned to Phil, I do spend a fair amount of time on the details which does slow things down a bit. As an example of taking a small detail casting and working it up as a wonderful piece to showcase as part of my build we'll take a look at one of the simplest castings Brett includes in the Foundry kit...a clevis. Brett suggests making a hanger from a piece of stripwood and hanging various items from it at the transfer dock on the Pattern Shop.

Here is what a couple of clevis castings look like right out of the box. For all practical purposes you could blacken, buff or rust with chalks, and hang it up...Well I just couldn't leave this simple but nicely cast piece go without a bit of attention.



I fiddled around making sure any castings marks were filed off, the holes were clean all the way through, and the clevis was nice and straight and even, then blackened the pieces. I found some wire the correct diameter and made two pins, that would function as the shaft for a bolt, and inserted them into the hole and put a small bit of epoxy on one end to hold the pin. I then found some NBWs of the right size to finish off the bolt and nut. The piece was then weathered with chalks and buffed slightly to give a metalic sheen.

Here is the end result of treating these simple little castings with some focused attention...poor little guys deserve it!



A testament to Brett's castings, standing up proud to fairly high magnification. On to bigger but not necessarily better things!

Dave_S

Ken,

Most excellent. Very natural looking. One wouldn't be able to guess what you've added to the original casting unless they already knew the casting or saw your "before" photo. A great illustration of taking a simple detail a step farther to make it seem like it was always there, ready to use and just belongs there.

Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ

KKarns

Her finger wasn't available at the time...hehe.

sdrees

Ken,

You must have a lot of patience.