HO Scale Brass & Iron Foundry Official Forum Build



  • edited September 2018
    uhmmmm. wow. just wow. speechless
  • Stunning work. Love when a few of the little bit come together and suddenly there is something quite amazing. Sadly I think I've run out of superlatives to describe your work.
  • Ken, I still can't believe the level of super-detail you are able to achieve and render in HO scale. Other worldly.

  • Ken, The signs are WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so is the rest of the project.
  • I never cease to be amazed at what you are able to do in HO scale.....outstanding work...
  • This is outstanding work Ken.

    This picture blows me away.

  • Weathering on those signs is perfect man!
  • Jaw droppingly amazing!
  • Outstanding as usual. I like the street number on the wall. I'm going to find a place to do that...but I believe I will include a 1/2 in the number...kind of like it is in an alley or part of an annex.
  • Dr. Grunge,
    I am fascinated by your foundry sign. Is that word stencilled on a solid piece of wood? It does not look like paper. Did you "flick" white paint on it also? Whatever you did, it is convincing.
  • Well Brett this has to be one of the best designed single walls you have ever done! I appreciate your thoughts and guidance...

    Thanks Joel, I always look forward to hearing from you.

    Thanks George...

    I agree Stephen, the signage really makes this structure along with that wonderfully designed door Brett came up with.

    Appreciate your input Muddy...

    Thanks much Karl, always wondering what your take is going to be when I get something posted...

    Thanks Alan...

    Appreciate it Mike.

    You'll notice Bryan that the street number sign has a slightly different finish to the frame. I purposely changed that up as well as varying the chalk weathering to the signs themselves. A half number would look cool...

    Thanks Mitch. The main Foundry sign is a paper sign glued to a stripwood base as per the manual. The key to this look is to color the sign with chalks first then sand the back of the sign extremely thin, almost see through. Then I glue it to the sign base. I then use my sanding stick and #11 blade and pick and sand feather the edges and re-chalk the exposed paper. This gives a very blended and weathered border which is key to the impression of a painted sign.
  • the front wall looks awesome and i can't wait to see the O version.... :)
  • I love the Coca Cola sign over the broken window.
  • Ken excellent modeling. The store front with the chipped concrete. Wow no words to describe the look of it.

  • Not much I can say that does your work justice. So ill just go back up and have another look and admire.
  • Ken, you never cease to amaze me. I really like the concrete effects. They look amazingly real. Then you follow that up with one of the best structure fronts that I have seen. I like what you did with the signs and your overall weathering is spot on. Unbelievable!! Phil
  • Thanks Kevin, would be awesome in O...

    Does add a bit of zip and color, thanks rhebner20

    The addition of the concrete worked out well and thanks much for noticing as I love the small details.

    Hey Phil, appreciate that and made my day. Nice hearing from you.

  • Ken, work has absorbed me completely the past month, but be sure I followed your every move. I can't say anything positive more that hasn't been said before on this magnificent build.
    If one should tell me it was in O scale, I'd believed it. It is very inspiring and motivating for every level of modeler. Beginner or advanced. Thanks for your dedication and all of the marvelous posts you have given us here. As a matter of fact, scale is irrelevant here. It's the way the whole concept is brought to us that is so fantastic. Thanks man.
  • i keep hoping to see the unboxing video of this monster. any idea when that might happen?
  • edited October 2018
    Sorry for the delay in getting an additional update but a few things have slowed me down more than usual! I made a bone head mistake when working on the roofs for both the Foundry and Work Room. Brett and Brian Marriott came up with a stellar way of making a standing seam metal roof with the seam spacing made to order. The roof is laserboard with very shallow grooves. You then cut stripwood, that's right stripwood, and glue those on edge in the grooves to simulate the standing metal seam...I was sceptical but after working it up it looks perfect!...genius once again with Brett's kits and methods.

    Back to the bone head move...not genius!...there are three lengths of stripwood that need cut for the Foundry roof...2 short front, 2 short rear, and 24 main pieces. I promptly cut my 24 pieces for the main on the short rear template! Of course I didnt realize until after cutting all 24. So I of course ran out of the correct stripwood to re-cut the 24 pieces to the correct (longer) dimension. I simply called Brett and the stripwood, which is not a normally stocked dimension for me, was in the mail pronto...but none the less a delay on my part.

    I was able to finish the Work Room roof and was shooting for a warm patena simulating a weathered metal roof that was painted and in good repair. I will be adding some weathering once installed but mulling that around but wanted to post where I am at the moment...


    Hard to believe that seam is made from stripwood!...


    More when the Foundry roof is complete...Ken
  • Ken, I've built probably 30-40 craftsman kits over the years and have done something stupid, sometimes big - sometimes small, in nearly every one. It's how we recover that matters.

  • Looks great, the warmth and weathering is perfect. Yeah, stripwood seems counterintuitive for a ribbed seam roof but it works. I tried styrene first but it just didn't weather the way I wanted it.
  • Ken, One of the reasons your builds are so interesting is they are full of hints & how-tos. Cationing us about a potential "oops" is just one more part of our education. Thanks for being so open about those.
  • Ken, despite the "oops" moment, that roof looks really good. I like the slightly weathered look. Phil
  • The roof looks great so far. Also no need to apologize, always worth the wait for your posts.
  • Looks fantastic Ken, the highlights on the ribs is just right. Such a great method for that type of roofing, and executed so well.
    Also thanks for showing that even you don't get it right first time every time.... we all make these kinda moves, and we all learn from them, and eachother.

  • Great work on that roof. Your little mistake shows you are human! Again fantastic achievement.
  • Thanks Brett, was thrilled at the results this technique yielded!

    Nice to know I'm not alone there George...

    Glad my threads are proving useful Bill...and you're right, sometimes relating what not to do is as good as what to do!

    Thanks much Phil.

    Nice hearing from you Joel. I appreciate that but always feel a bit anxious when I feel too much time has passed since my last posting...

    Thanks Karl and so right regarding the method outlined here...just perfect for this application.

    Appreciate that Robert...
  • edited October 2018

    I've been following along since you began this build in June. Not only have I learned a great deal from your ideas, careful explanations and photos but I have also found myself fascinated by your new ideas and techniques as well as being thoroughly entertained by this build throughout another long hot summer out here in the desert.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • Ken your work is amazing. I enjoy following all your builds. Your weathering is what I strive to achieve. I had used a similar standing seam effect on some of my previous models using Evergreen styrene. I used sheet styrene with grooves cut in for the appropriate width and glued scale 1 x 2 strips in the grooves. after painting it looked good.
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