Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 925 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 54 New Member Introductions
- 113 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 166 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 117 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 362 Builds
- 131 HO Scale Builds
- 155 O Scale Builds
- 59 Finished SW Build Pics
- 12 Miscellaneous Builds
- 187 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 36 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 38 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Comments
Really nice you noticed that Ben, that’s exactly why I did that! Adds so much more interest and gives a much more substantial look than the boards just butted together.
Thanks
The following excerpt illustrates the concept, even in kit building, of planning ahead to achieve the overall goals of your build. Most may not be interested in this lengthy descriptive of what I'm doing, so exit now and go check out Brett's new kit!
I am moving along with the interior work on Shelby's main structure. The plan is to fully detail the interior including lights. The first and second floor walls are built separate, and a bit differently, due to the interior of the first floor being visible through the two large openings in the front and side of the structure. After the upper and lower walls are built they are joined together to form one solid wall. The call out in the instructions is for the first floor walls to be framed in scale 4x4 stripwood. I wanted a more in scale framing so I decided to frame the walls in scale 2x4s. On one hand this gives a more "in scale" appearance for the purist, but on the other hand, allows the walls to be less rigid and prone to warping. The interior of the upper level will not be visible so those walls were braced with the traditional 1/4 inch wood pieces. To solve the problem of the lower walls warping, I braced them with scale 8x8s giving the posts the appearance they are functional in supporting the upper level. These posts extended above to the upper level to a help secure the joining of both levels into one flat, straight, wall. (see figure 1.)
(figure 1.) Note the finished and detailed "bracing" that appear as support posts for the upper level.
As mentioned earlier, I assembled three of the four walls to allow access to detailing the interior. This created issues with the final wall attachment after everything else is done. Once those issues were sorted out, I turned my attention to the floor of the upper level. This floor would obviously be visible through the two large openings in the lower level front and side. I will be detailing the ceiling of the lower level with shop lights, wiring, and other details. The floor material of the upper level is scribed flooring in three pieces that are put together and braced. The simulated floor boards run perpendicular to the long dimension of the floor. Problem with this is, I wanted to put joists under the floor that would tie into the posts I used as bracing for the lower walls. This adds a nice level of visual interest. As a result, my joist would be running the same direction as the second story floor boards. This of course can't happen as the floor boards always run perpendicular to the joists. Solution...I covered the underside of the floor with stripwood running the opposite direction of the scribed floor boards. (see figure 2.)
(figure 2.) Note the very end of the right side of the floor. This is the original scribed floor piece. This portion is the underside of a slight overhang on the front of Shelby's and will be covered as the rest of the floor after it is installed. I had to notch out the floor everywhere there was a support post. This allows the floor to be installed as well before the final wall is put in place. (see figures 3, 4, and 5.)
(figure 3.) View from above of the second floor flooring in place.
(figure 4.) Second floor flooring in place and set up to allow all this to be completed with the final wall installed once all the detailing is done.
(figure 5.) Note the overhang in front. The underside here will be covered in the second layer of stripwood running the short length.
Here is a shot of the second story floor (figure 6.) in place with rafters installed. This roof piece is removable, allowing for the lights and any final details to be added.
Here is the nearly finished shelf unit that will be in the interior of the main structure. There are 15 of Brett's 3D details in this piece alone!
Can you speed it up some I am going to be 80 this year and I hope to see this finished...........Carl.........
Nice point out Bryan! its a bit hard to see with my thumb partially in the shot.
Lol...right on Carl...I hear ya my friend! I'm slow there is not question about that. Now that the floor panel is all fitted up I should start sailing along...thats the plan anyway.
Thanks much Brett. Yup, the galvanized wash tub has a coke wooden flat in it with two soda bottles and in front of the tub are three of those sweet little bottles, two upright and one on its side. That makes seven 3D parts right there...love working with them.
You are so right regarding the lighting Stephen, and I noted that from your fabulous work on this kit. Anyone who hasn't seen Stephen's Shelby's build should check it out in the gallery. This structure, with its two large unobstructed openings, makes it perfect for lighting it up!
Jerry
Thanks Robert and that's exactly right regarding the photos. I like to document major pieces that go into an interior detailing for just that reason, they are often hard to see once they are planted.
Hey Tom, should be reasonably visible once things are buttoned up. Thanks for your banter here on the forum, enjoy our conversation.