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Kit 312 Truck Repair Shop

I'm going to stick to the plans for the most part with this kit. I was able to get started on the walls over the weekend. I did add some texture to the tarpaper. When I was looking for prototype pics they all had wrinkles in the paper...at least the old shops did. So I crumpled up the paper then ironed it flat again then painted with black and dark gray prior to installation.

I've identified some glue spots in the super closeup that will need to be removed. I'm also planning on giving a gray drybrushing to the exterior. Also planning on having a vehicle in the scene. I'm thinking a Fordson wrecker or tractor...perhaps both if it's not overkill.

Have not decided yet whether this will be done as a diorama or as part of the layout. I have a spot on the layout, but I have long-term plans to re-do the layout so...

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Comments

  • The wrinkled tarpaper was a good idea !
  • i'll be watching this one like a hawk.
  • Wonderful start Bryan. Always enjoy your work so much, cannot wait to see more! Thanks for sharing with us.
  • Looks great. Certainly will be following closely.
  • Very nice Bryan. I appreciate you sharing.
    ed
  • Thanks fellas. Hope to get the other 2 walls sided this week.
  • The texture to the tar paper really adds to the overall look.
  • Great to see you working this kit up Bryan and off to a nice start...good idea on the stressed "tar paper".
  • Bryan, I just found this. Great to see you doing this kit. Really like the tarpaper. Thanks for sharing.

    Geezerbill
  • So you don't think that I fell off a cliff or something, I have gotten a small amount of work done on this model since May. Walls are constructed. Next up is to work on the castings so I can complete the walls.

    I've actually been managing a 16U travel softball team which consumed nearly all of my spare time. Oh, and going to some Nats games!

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  • looks excellent!
  • Yes, very nice.
  • Really glad you are back Bryan! Always enjoy your builds.

    Geezerbill
  • Looking good so far.
  • Up to your usual high standards! Can't wait to see more. Thanks Bryan for posting!
  • Thanks guys.

    I'm trying some new wood painting techniques for these castings.IMG_1111
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  • Those are looking different and very nice too. Did you use chalk?

    Mike S.
  • Thanks Mike. No chalk on these. A mix of acrylics and enamels. I'll do a step by step on another piece. But basically went like this:

    Base coat tan. Enamel dark brown wash...let sit for 15-20 min then wipe off excess with Q-Tip. Let dry. Black/brown acrylic on fine brush to pick out dark graining. Light kahki on fine brush to pick out light graining. Heavy dry brush old wood color to blend the streaks. Enamel filter for brown wood to further blend. Light dry brush with light kahki. Pin wash dark brown enamel around metal pieces, deep grain, and shadow under lip of bench. Textured rust on hinges followed by touch the edges with graphite. Slimy green at bottom of bench where it will contact ground and just a touch on top of bench corners.
  • That is a lot of steps and it sure looks like it was worth it, as they look great, and different from the many castings I've been doing and have seen on other models.

    Mike S
  • Yes Mike it is a lot of steps, but none of them take a long time. More drying time in between steps than anything else.

    I feel like we spend a lot of time detailing individual boards with brushing, adding knot holes, banding, splintering, etc...even before we start staining them. Why then should we look for the fastest or easiest ways to paint these outstanding castings?

    I've always admired Robert's painted castings that he has posted here. Reminds me of the detailing done by the military modelers. So I'm giving it a try...and am leaning towards trying the same technique on real wood at some point.

    So here I took 2 small castings that have been primed. Painted them by dipping a brush into the brown wash seen here then dip brush into odorless spirts and brushing the mixture on the casting in pic 2. 15 min later, take most off with Q-tip. You could speed up the drying process by using a hair dryer right now and continuing, but I'm going to let them dry overnight and resume tomorrow.

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  • Thank you for starting such a detailed description. I will surely be following along and will get some new castings primed now.

    Mike S.
  • i gotta get me some of that wash. that looks excellent. thanks for experimenting big guy!
  • Kevin, I've grown fond of using enamels with acrylics. I think you will too. Lots of cool stuff you can do with both that you can't do with only 1.

    These next steps just took me about 15 min total. The castings are set aside to dry again. I think I could realistically do 20 or so at a time. I think this technique will lend itself better to the larger wood castings vs small.

    What I'm looking to do is add visual depth to the casting with paint. Pic 1 I've added black/brown lines. I put a drop of paint on the glass and mix with a drop of airbrush cleaner to thin. Apply with an 0 brush. Pic 2, add light tan lines, pic 3 heavy drybrush with middle color to blend stripes together. Pic 4 I've added brown filter on left, and gray filter on right.

    I'll evaluate them once dry. I anticipate giving a light drybrush with tan and a pin wash of dark brown to highlight nail holes, gaps between boards, etc. I'll darken the back boards on the shelf and add some moss to the bottom of the crate.
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  • These bad boys are pretty much done. I could add 1 more layer of a pin wash if I want.

    Pic 1 I drybrushed lightly with khaki. Pic 2 added a pin wash of diluted brown wash. Note the pooling on top of the box. One of the things I love about enamels is that if you give this a couple minutes to dry, you can take that pooling completely out while leaving the color in the spot where you want it. Pic 3 & 4 are after they dried. Pic 5 I added just a touch of green mold to the box that was probably left outside.

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  • Really nice variation in colour Bryan and the wood grain really pops. Great technique.
  • Great wood coloring! Thanks so much for showing us in such detail how your technique works, in each layer.

    Mike S.
  • The wood castings are mostly done. Only thing left to do is some final weathering on the big pieces once smaller details have been added. I like the way they are turning out.

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  • Got started on a few of the metal castings also.
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  • Bryan. Real nice work as always. ..........Carl.........
  • Bryan, love the numbers on the parts bin and the rusty cabinet is amazing.
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