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Comments
Appreciate that Bryan. All my builds have been narrow gauge except for a couple very early ones. I think I only used standard gauge only on my Water Tank and Storage Shed and Duluth, all the rest were narrow gauge.
Nice tutorial on detailing track. After all, "Track Is A Model Too." Prototypical ties and tie spacing along with rail size and details like rail joiners, ballast type and color are also models in their own way.
Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ
That coin was also minted the year after I was born HAHA
Here are the pictures that I was sending you in case you didn't get them. These are from my Loco and Service Shops build.
Wes, thanks my man...I see you're taking a jab reminding me how old I am or how young you are...either one I loose...lol.
Thanks Phil. One of my favorite parts of a SWSM build. When all the structures are done and you sit back and pull it all together!
Thanks for posting those photos.
For those interested in modeling track more prototypically I recommend a book by Mike Cougill, "Detailing Track". [ISBN: 978-0-9746143-2-8]
I have also included an example of different tie spacing used by the PRR. Each RR had their own specs, so this is just an example of one practice.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Terry
Terry
What do you use for the oily look? It must be more than just black chalk.
Appreciate that George, glad you enjoy checking in.
Dr. Grunge thanks you Bryan...I can now rest satisfied that I have grunged something once more!
Hey Stephen, it's just chalk but the application may make the difference. I put down the first subtile layer of chalk then dribble some alcohol over the area so the chalk kind of "soaks in"...then when that's dry I go over it again with a bit more without the alcohol, I then run my finger down the center of the ties to give it a slight sheen like oil...sort of...
Thanks Joel, nothin wrong with flex track particularly if you are going to have working motive power!
Terry
Terry
Jim
In the two examples of rail joint practices I found (the PRR and NP Ry) both railroads followed the practice of staggering the rail joints so that the joint on one rail would not be opposite the other. I can recall seeing freight cars (along the CRI&P and GT) rock and roll, clickity-clack, their way along the track as one side of the car passed over a joint and then the other causing alternating dips and the rocking motion.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Another grand slam of a build with your track work just enhancing the realism of what we would have witnessed along the right of way had we been riding in the engine, coach, dome car or caboose (waycar for us CB&Q modelers) of a freight or passenger train. As others on the forum have rightly observed, "It's all in the details". The little things we often overlook because they just belong there and we have seen them over and over again so we just glance over them, but remove these details and right away we notice something is missing. This is just the sort of scene I can recall as the Twin City Zephyr would have been arriving at East Dubuque, IL in the outskirts of town where the small industries abounded along the banks of the Mighty Mississippi.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Hello Jim! Shoot, I didn't see you when I was walking the tracks by the Foundry...
Appreciate the thoughts...
Thanks Dave...cool how a bit of grungy old track congers up memories of old railroads and the sights and smells!
Have glued the Pattern Shop, Tempering Shed, and Repair Shop complex down on the diorama and spread the first layer of dirt around this area. I also installed the Pattern Shop rear dock. Take care in making sure the dock is just below the sliding track doors with a slight space to give the apperance the doors would roll free. My first trial fit the dock was touching the bottom of the doors so I just took a paint brush handle round end and dimpled the base where the dock legs go to lower the dock just a bit...worked perfect.
Featured here is the first laser cut detail...the four wheel dock cart. This little gem was easy to build and I made mine quite grungy...imagine that!
I'm pulling all the resin and white metal castings for detailing the complex as I move around the structures. Note that the Foundry is not in place and glued down yet. It is imperative NOT to get in a hurry and glue the Foundry down as you need it out of the way to have access to detail the concrete transfer dock area (where the cart is sitting in the pictures below).
Here is what a couple of clevis castings look like right out of the box. For all practical purposes you could blacken, buff or rust with chalks, and hang it up...Well I just couldn't leave this simple but nicely cast piece go without a bit of attention.
I fiddled around making sure any castings marks were filed off, the holes were clean all the way through, and the clevis was nice and straight and even, then blackened the pieces. I found some wire the correct diameter and made two pins, that would function as the shaft for a bolt, and inserted them into the hole and put a small bit of epoxy on one end to hold the pin. I then found some NBWs of the right size to finish off the bolt and nut. The piece was then weathered with chalks and buffed slightly to give a metalic sheen.
Here is the end result of treating these simple little castings with some focused attention...poor little guys deserve it!
A testament to Brett's castings, standing up proud to fairly high magnification. On to bigger but not necessarily better things!
Most excellent. Very natural looking. One wouldn't be able to guess what you've added to the original casting unless they already knew the casting or saw your "before" photo. A great illustration of taking a simple detail a step farther to make it seem like it was always there, ready to use and just belongs there.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
You must have a lot of patience.