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logging and tractor repair shed

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  • edited June 2021
    two days ago i mixed up some epoxy and scraped some black rembrandt powder into it and stirred it in with a toothpick, then dabbed a small amount of it, but enough to cover the entire end of the smoke jack so it oozed out a little when pushed tight, and stuck it in the 'second set of hands' gizmo and pushed it tight against the building. i let it cure for more than 24 hours, and removed the gizmo, and it was fine. 12 or so hours later i go downstairs and it had fallen off. did the powder weaken the epoxy, or does it just take longer to cure. i ask because i redid it and it's been about 24 hours.

  • this was gonna be on the road as you approach nortons (the last pic). but i think that's going to change.
    front of builtup billboard
    and the back
    back of builtup billboard
    and we're going to let it cure for another 24 hours.
    gizmo holding smoke jack day 2

    i've been driving past a construction site for weeks. that's where i took the bulldozer pictures. the dozer is sitting within 50 feet of a pile of pulverized black dirt, so i went back saturday and swiped about a pound of it for the diorama. (which i'll get back to shortly).
    first roadside nortons sign
  • I like that sign !!!
  • Kevin, not saying I like it but...

    C69AB25E-DAF6-47A2-A685-3E3680D74892
  • Don't hurt your tongue! Your doing a beautiful job Kevin!

    Jerry
  • The nail holes are there to let the rain in to keep the fish moist....
  • Looks great so far. Nice colouring and detail work.
  • i've been working on the forge the past couple of days. i bought a cutter for my dremel tool so i could hollow it out, and i did so. i drilled 7 or 8 holes in the coal and bought a campfire led kit from evan designs. the problem? you can't see the lights at all unless you're right on top of the forge so.....what i believe i need to do is to take more of the resin out to get the leds closer to the top so they can be seen. that's gonna be tricky since the forge is basically done. i'm gonna have to be really careful so i don't ham handedly start knocking stuff off.
    forge

    it's the lighting. the forge doesn't have any shine.
  • Looking great! Kevin
  • That looks fantastic,

    Did you drill out from the bottom or the back? If you drilled out from the back, you can use your #11 blade to scrape away material and enlarge the hole towards the top. Not as easy as drilling, but less potential for damage. You could also go up to 20+ holes putting most of them towards the center. I would remove the glued on details either way though.

    How do I know this? Hmmmm...
  • Well done Kevin !!!
  • brownbr said:

    That looks fantastic,

    Did you drill out from the bottom or the back? If you drilled out from the back, you can use your #11 blade to scrape away material and enlarge the hole towards the top. Not as easy as drilling, but less potential for damage. You could also go up to 20+ holes putting most of them towards the center. I would remove the glued on details either way though.

    How do I know this? Hmmmm...

    i drilled it out from the bottom. i took a 1/8 drill and drilled 3 starter holes and then took the dremel to it. i hope i don't have to remove everything from it to get the resin out, but if i do, it'll suck but i'll do it.

  • The nail holes are there to let the rain in to keep the fish moist....

    that might work.


  • managed to bore out more of the forge without breaking anything. i tested the fire leds and i still need to get more bored out so it's closer to the top. it appears i got dangerously close to the front of the forge because you can see a bit of the light right above the forge door. may not be too prototypical but it is kinda cool.
    i have a 8 second video but for some reason unbeknownst to a technical pinhead, it won't upload to the forum.
    no biggie. it's a shitty video anyway.
  • Call it a crack in to forge wall Kevin. Intended to look as repair needed.
  • edited July 2021
    I'd hollow it out from the top,
    Get rid of all of the resin that's blocking the light from coming up and out.
    then..
    Install the lights into the vacuous space.
    Crumple some clear cellophane and stuff it into the cavity over the lights to fill the void.
    Light up the lights and you will have a multi faceted display of orange flickering color.
    While lit touch the top 'crinkles/creases' with a little black paint to simulate new coal... about 20% , you want way more light than dark.
    Just sayin.... :wink:

    I could do one tomorrow for you if you want to see it...

    To Post a Video...

    Upload the video to youtube.
    Copy the video link from your browser.
    Post the link here.
    The video will play on the forum.

  • karl,
    i would love to see what you're talking about.
  • i glued the main building together and blackened almost all of the metal castings. i also got the preliminary layer of dirt down on the low areas.
    main building glued
  • i guess my next step is to order the rails and get them down. i have never laid an inch of track, so i'm flying by the seat of my pants. i have no idea what code rail to get or where to get it, so any tips are welcome.
  • Code 70 rail is probably the most prototypical for a backwoods railroad. This is just according to all the things I read before choosing the track for my layout.
    However.... code 83 rails will be WAY easier to work with. That bit of advice came from the guy that owns one of the local train stores.
    I have not done any hand laid track either Kevin, so I will be very interested in what you come up with. Several bridges are going in that are awaiting this very step.
  • Maybe I'll have time to play with a casting tonight Kev and show you, also easy to mock up before you mess with the real thing.

    I also use 83, because I bought a bunch years ago, I also like the look.
  • edited July 2021
    kebmo said:

    karl,
    i would love to see what you're talking about.

    I obviously just slapped some black paint on there not being careful, and used a cheap little flicker LED, but, you get the idea, besides, it's deep inside the structure.

    034
    034a
    035
    036
    037
    038

    You aint gonna get any metal soft enough to work with if you aint got plenty of heat !!!
  • thanks karl. looks like i'm going back to square one on the forge.
  • Wear a dust mask and don't breath the dust. Seriously, wear a mask.
  • thanks brett, i will. thanks to covid we have about a thousand masks....
  • unfortunately don't we all!
  • Kevin, love the fire effect. I bought a bunch of the flame less candle lights to experiment with on other projects.
    Great job!!
  • No Masks here because no covid in our town just maybe a touch of the common cold
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