#301 Logging and Tractor Repair Shed (O Scale). Karl.A

edited July 2021 in O Scale Builds
Desk cleaned up from the other projects I'm working on, but are stagnant, tools put away so I can find them, (theoretically) and now its time to pre-read the 'bible' for a couple of hours and familiarize myself with the steps involved for this great kit.

Construction starts tomorrow, unless I get really motivated tonight...



  • I'm getting my Coke and popcorn ready....Rick
  • Fun times
  • Git-r-dun
  • Always loved this kit and looking forward to your take on it. I'll be following along.
  • Oh boy...this is gonna be good!!!!
  • edited May 2021
    I appreciate your posts guys and thanks for the support,
    this is the first time I'll be starting a new build from the beginning since (I think) 2014, so, I'll be taking my time on this one, re-learning, re-reading and refreshing.
    I've got a few ideas, but it's gonna be Brett's manual and instructions all the way, you can't go wrong with that approach I've learned.
  • Since I've build it, I will be sitting first row... :smiley:
  • Nice to see you getting into a fresh kit and look forward to seeing you "work your magic"...
  • As always good to see you do a start to finish. Looking forward to this one my friend.

  • looking very forward to this.
  • edited May 2021
    i'm in the middle of this one, so i'll be watching closely. especially the castings, since i've already done the siding (and it's considerably darker than the picture on the box)
  • edited May 2021
    Great to have you following along and your support, Brett, Robert, Ken, Jerry and Kevin.
    Jerry said:

    As always good to see you do a start to finish.

    I've got the start thing down Jerry, it's the finish I struggle with.
    Always good to have your encouragement my friend and the push/nudge to get there.

    I did the first steps on the main siding over the weekend. Still more to do but I did the basic graining of the strip wood, added knots to about 1/3 of the boards and then gave them the first basic coloring for the interior side.


    Next step will be to get that "silver grey" color on the other (exterior) side of these boards, distress them appropriately and start applying them to Brett's awesome laser cut wall frames, (which I have already colored and are ready).

    I think I want to try and get a more dilapidated, run-down look on this build, more inline with the finish I did on my "#303 Rigging Shed" build. I'm looking to recapture that run down, backwoods, unkept, and neglected feel.
  • Off to a good start here.
  • I may try your method of knot making. I have been drilling, placing, gluing and clipping them one by one. Very slow process that way. Spend more time swapping tools than making knots.
  • edited May 2021
    Thanks Bryan,
    Emery, I think it took me just over 3 hours just to do the knots, 25 boards, 12 per board so about 300.

    Here's another tip/trick for you.

    I do 2-3 sizes of hole, so I load up my small bit, grab 5or6 boards and stack them, but stagger them slightly. Then drill through all 5 boards at once, do this randomly down the length of the stack. Place them down, still staggered and grab another 5 and repeat.


    Once all the small holes are done I swap in my bigger bit and repeat.

    This is obviously 5 times faster than doing the boards one at a time.
  • That's a great tip, speeds up the process without any sacrifice on quality or appearance
  • Thanks man, appreciate it.
  • Process to follow.
  • Thanks Karl. Great little time saver sir.
  • edited May 2021
    We all know that Brett's manuals and his techniques so clearly explained within them are simply the absolute best in the hobby. SierraWest kits using these methods are legendary for the results that can be achieved by following these instructions.

    Learning, using, mastering and understanding these techniques will elevate pretty much every modelers results. Once mastered these techniques provide a very solid foundation for all aspects of our modeling.

    Although using Brett's techniques alone will provide outstanding, award wining results when followed directly, sometimes we need something specific for a situation. Having a solid understanding of how and why these methods work, we can, after much practice 'adapt' them for a special need.

    Here is one of those situations.

    ""Separate colors on each side of the strip wood.""

    Grain, distress and knot as usual.
    For this to work extra care needs to be taken in the coloring each side, we cant just go at it 'flooding' with ipa as we usually would for a single color, so here's the next steps.

    Side 1:
    Grab 5 or so boards and place them on a clean area, hold them snuggly together and perfectly flat.
    Scrape the selected shades of chalk onto the boards, take extra care to minimize getting chalk on the area and just get it on the boards.
    Use just enough ipa to dissolve the chalks and make the stain
    Avoid getting the stain on the work surface and do not let the boards move around. Keeping the boards snug together prevents the stain getting between the boards and seeping underneath
    Once happy with the color lift the boards one by one straight up and move to dry
    there should be very little chalk/stain/ipa on the work surface, wipe this clean.
    repeat for all of the boards.

    once dry grab 5 boards and flip them over. there should be very little chalk on the backside hopefully almost none.

    This chalk wasn't flooded with ipa if you were careful in step one, and therefor not soaked in, it should just be on the surface. A couple of light swipes with steel wool should clean it right off.


    Now its time for Side 2...

    Side 2

    Is pretty much a repeat of side 1 but with your different colors of choice.
    Again use as much care as you can to only get the chalk and ipa on the top of the boards and keep them snug and stationary.

    Once dry if there is a minimal amount of chalk that makes its way to the other (first) side it should be easy to remove with a light swipe of steel wool. Go lightly this time as it will blur your variation slightly on your finished first side, but, these boards will later receive more work and weathering as, and after they are installed.


    So, it’s still using the same foundation techniques we've learned from the best manuals available in our hobby, after much practice and gaining an understanding of how and why they work, they can be utilized in so many ways.
  • Excellent instruction. I'm one who would unknowingly flood the boards. This helps immensely....Rick
  • This is an effect I have often tried to get. Thanks so much for your clear concise step by step. Should be a great help on my next build... now to figure out which one is next.
  • Grey "color" on the boards has been nailed!
  • For those who need it, great tutorial Karl...
  • Thanks for taking the time to outline your process. I tried the gray chalks you mentioned earlier and got a very nice shade of gray also. Would not have thought to start with such a dark gray as 704.3 as a base.

  • And if not sure you can do it that way. Here's how I do mine I place them on a paper towel that way if it goes over the board the towel picks up the access.

  • Thanks for this Karl!
  • “Don’t waste the IPA!” I think we can all get behind that.
  • Karl, I'm glad you started this kit. It will be nice to see a pro go through all the steps in the manual. Only you would attempt a different stain on each side of the board!! LOL I don't know if I could do that, especially in HO. Keep up the good work. I'll be following along. Phil
  • edited May 2021
    Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. It just takes some extra care.

    Thanks Phil, its pretty easy in HO too, I did it on the HO Locoshop build, as the base for the peeled paint walls. Also the water tank on that diorama actually has 3 different colors on it.
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