#305 O Scale Wood Cutters Shack. Karl.A

Kevin

Just some experiments with the back wall. Had my first career spill of my A&I bottle (just floquil bottle size) and the splotch you see under the window is a drip which I will blend in with chalk. I built up the window over the template in a double layer and placed it over the opening, marked around it with a #11 and then removed the siding and fit the window in. It was bare wood that I colored in place. Brett, it still looks bland as you say but in person there is a lot of contrast between boards and under each edge.
OM (Kevin

admin

Not bland anymore buddy... Love the overall look and feel.

hoN3_rr

I, for one, like the look where the 'accident' was!

Dwaine46

Kevin
when I was a young teen, I went to northern Arkansas to help my grandfather work on his house. We built a garage and a shed with ruff cut lumber bought cheep from a local sawmill, sort of a seconds pile. Some were weathered, some were newer.
Your wall reminds me so much of the walls we built.
Looking good, thanks for the memory...........dwaine

Karl.A

Colouration is far from bland..... great tonal differential.

Shame about the 'spill spot' but I'm sure you will have no problem blending it back in and correcting the issue, thats the beauty of the Rembrandt chalks.

Your rough cut random siding really looks great and recessing the windows makes a big difference visually. The few times I've done it that way came out great (IMO) so I know how much extra effort it takes, but your pictures definately show that it's worth the added time.

YM

Oh, if that was your first spill, be thankful that it was your weak A&I bottle and not my bottle of "I",

A few of my previous build walls have been rebuilt due to similar 'incidents'..... (obviously behind the scenes and previously un-publicised)

Looking forward to more,
Karl.A

Kevin

Thanks Boss, YM, KP and Dwaine
Dwaine, I looked at a few pics of the prototype of this kind of rough cut siding but mostly just winged it so the fact that it reminds you of something you built is very gratifying.
Benchtop lighting of various types so ignore the red tone. I just wanted to show the frame I assembled over the template and how I had to cut back the siding to fit them in. The frame had to be double thickness because of the recess. I lined it up in the opening and tacked it in place with a few drops of glue then carefully scribed around the frame with a #11 blade to mark it. Remove the frame and carefully cut out the siding. I stuck together two sash halves with double sided tape just to see how it would fit. Just a side note, as I looked at the temporarily assembled sash I wondered if using the double sided tape for the glazing had its possibilities. Brett, I'm sure you've had experience with this so what do you think?
KOM (that's right, Kevin Old Minion)

hoN3_rr

I 'dabbled' a bit on one of my builds with the ruff cut siding, and did not come out with the look that you have, which is excellent. I, for one, can appreciate the additional effort and time it took to achieve the results you have. Well done.

MikeM

Don't know if this effect would fit your needs:

Geezer

Man- this is great!!! I love the shiplap siding.......
keep it coming....Also like the "broken" shingles using therazor saw
trick....neat idea....
Geezer

Wes

Hey guys

Ive finally had the chance to make some progress. Work has been chaotic lately.

The main structure is basically complete. Just need to weather the door handles, and maybe add some signs to the wall. Let me know what you think.





Regards
Wes

admin

great job - love the coloration and overall feel - ridge cap looks especially nice. no nitpicks here...

Wes

Thanks Brett. Much appreciated. Been such a joy building this kit so far. Hope to start on the 6 pole shed tonight.

Dwaine46

Finally got my shed finished. That was fun, or should I say a real challenge for me, I only broke it 4 times before getting it to stay together. Brett’s instructions suggested making it a shade darker than the shack. Well I’m here to tell you a little black chalk goes a long way. Maybe a little more lighter chalk on the roof?


Question, I did just a few of the metal castings in Blacken-it, kept moving them around but still getting a few “white spots”. Although they do seem to buff out. Suggestions?

Wes, love the look of your shack. You’ve even got the stovepipe installed and rust looks super.

Dwaine

admin

Looking good Dwaine... try swirling a cheap paint brush around the casting while it is submerged... that will do the trick for you

Karl.A

As Brett says the swirling should dislodge any air bubbles attached to the casting thus allowing the blacken it to react with the metal.

Karl.A

Karl.A

Spent a little time today adding the top row of 'half' shingles and then the roof cap.



I guess the next thing to do will be the rafters and then on to the six pole shed....

Karl.A

Dwaine46

Things are starting to come togeather.


What is wrong with this picture?
I have had 2 jobs finish and have not done the recaps, it is the end of the month and my reports are due tomorrow. And what am I doing, sitting at the table drilling holes in pieces of plastic, gluing toothpicks in them and painting them a base coat.


Oh well, that we suffer the slings and arrows for our hobby!!!!!!!!

Wes

I know what you mean Dwaine. Once you get started on one of Bretts kits they are hard to put down.

Your castings are looking great by the way. Looking forward to more updates.

Dwaine46

Wes, thanks for the comment, glad to know that I’m not the only one caught up in this. Six months ago I would have bet that I wouldn't have even finished the shingles on the shack, much less finished the shed and started on the castings. But with Brett’s’ and everyone else’s encouragement, I just can’t put it down.

Karl, Brett, thanks for the help with the Blacken-it. The old paintbrush worked great. I was even able to re-do the ones I had messed up.

hoN3_rr

I'm currently working on the Wood Cutters Shack, and this is currently what I have. I'll be doing some light modifications to the structure as it will become a pump house for a mine diorama which I'm working on.

Daryl

the shack looks great

admin

looks really good - great overall dusty and aged appearance... weathering blended, not overdone, but what gives with the "yellow" knots?

hoN3_rr

If one really studies knot holes, you will discover that in reality there are a lot of knots are actually lighter in color and not all dark brown and black like we mostly of when we are modeling knot holes. You will note that there is a heavy dark ring around the knot and that the center of the knot is also dark, but there is a lot of lighter colored 'wood' within the knot. See the attached pictures.

The yellow knots are actually some experiments I was doing in trying to capture the the lighter color of knot holes and the darker colors associated within the knot holes. The knot hole two boards below the window on the right in the third picture better shows what I was really after. I think I have developed a technique to color knot holes like this fairly easily. I'll be testing the process on the public this weekend at a train show.

admin

the pictures illustrate your point of view quite nicely..... but.... as I have said for over 20 years not everything in real life looks good modeled. The yellow coloration of the wood cutters shack knots looks odd and distracts from the otherwise excellent modeling KP....

Daryl

maybe a very light touch with a light I/A on the knots would age more ?

Karl.A

I really like the innitial colouring and texture of the boards themselves Kris, a really great, natural aged colour, but, I also find the knots very 'distracting', not only because of the colour, but maybe even more so because of the large 'stain' that surrounds many of them, it makes them look 'messy' for want of a better descriptive.

The first "prototype" picture really isnt comparable as it shows creosoted wood, in which the knots in the darker boards are presumably lighter due to the creosote being washed away into the knot, as it is endgrain and would hold the moisture and draw it in, along with the creosote.
In the adjacent lighter, more natural boards the knots are the same colour as the board, this indicates to me that the strange colouration is due to the creosote/stain.

In the second pic you may note that only some of the knots are a lighter colour, not all of them, in addition to this those specific boards are darker than the rest.
In all the other boards however the knots are darker than the board which contains them.

In both cases the knot colouring is clear, sharp and distinct, there is no smudge or stain surrounding them and that is what my eye is drawn to on the model.

Granted that there are examples of lighter knots out there, but it doesnt appear to be the norm, and for me it doesnt really look right. Just some of my thoughts.

Karl.A

MikeM

I found the appearance of the knotholes distracting, drawing too much attention away from the rest of the structure. I suspect this type of knothole is relatively rare (in my 67 years I don't remember ever seeing one) which may be why it caught my eye as it did.

I did find one picture of knotholes in old barn siding with yellowish knotholes but the coloration appears pretty much confined to the knot itself, not really spreading out (as your picture looks to me).

On a positive note, I love the way you weathered the signs; I wish I were that good with those.

Dwaine46

Now is when it really comes down to the details, dosn't it!



Buy the way KP, love the effect of the nail holes!

admin

excellent job there buddy - i am impressed with the overall finish and feel you got... really good looking.. a couple of things i notice here - very carefully straighten the valve handle on the tank with a pair of tweezers... if it breaks no biggie, i will send another. straighten out the ratfter tails with tweezers. a little extra glue may be needed if they pop off.

Karl.A

The tank looks good Dwaine, weathered nicely and certainly not overdone, just right......
It is definately still in operation and leak free but it has some years on it as you have shown by the surface rusting, although this is certainly not a structural integrity problem.
Also the heavier rust around the seams and rivits is great as this is where the moisture would be held longer and therefor rust a little more heavily, nice job!!

As Brett says, try to straighten the valve handle and rafters to enhance and elevate the model even further.

I look forward to the next set of pics ........

Karl.A