Another O scale Railroad Camp

Hi All, in anticipation of the imminent release of Rail Road Camp part 2 I have decided to start part 1. No way I will finish it before part 2 arrives and I move on but hopefully I can get some of the main structure done and then when I finish part two I'll combine them and do the final details.

There have been other great builds of this amazing kit so I'll try and just comment on the things I plan on doing a bit differently.

Very excited to delve into a "new" SW kit. The smell of urethane is calling to me.rsz_img_3651


  • So are you planning on saving space for part 3? I've been thinking about ordering another part 1 with the intention of having a BIG dio with all 3 parts.
  • this sits on my shelf while i await part 2 and work on finishing up o'neill's. as far as i'm concerned, the timing of this build is perfect. i'm looking forward to following along. i'm planning on doing a joint build of this kit with engine909 (or maybe the one after 909:)) once i wrap up o'neill's,
  • I’ll be following along with great interest....the HO version (which I’m still working on) is a great kit....anxious to see how you guys do things...things I’ll probably say “why didn’t I do it that way”...carry on
  • There is no way but your own way. Bring the joy.
  • With much anticipation I wait to see what you do with this great kit series Joel.
  • So am I Joel .! I have this kit on the to do list as well.
  • Joel looking forward to you starting this kit.

  • Well we are off and running. Cleaned up the minimal amount of parting lines on the castings and sprayed the resin ones and blackened the metal. Also started putting the stone walls together and priming. Lots of busy work to start but tomorrow I can move on to distressing some wood.rsz_img_3648
  • Excited to see what you do with this kit Joel! Off and running...
  • Keen to see this unfold. I loved building this kit.
  • Looking forward to another one of your great builds Joel. A fantastic kit for us all to enjoy watching you build.

  • Love seeing a SWSM kit getting started...and in the hands of Joel no less!
  • Spent the day distressing and staining the wood for the siding and window frames.
    Typical wire brush and file card to distress. To colour I tried something new. First I dry brushed the wood with white craft paint. Really wiped off the paint and then scrubbed it onto the boards 3-4 at a time. Can hardly see any white on them. rsz_img_3652
    I then painted on dark brown/grey acrylic and quickly wiped off the board (one at a time). The dark colour picks up the white and becomes much lighter on the raised surfaces and the dark colour is pushed into the grain. You get a different effect if you wipe with paper towel, cotton cloth or finger tips. I find the best effect was with fingers.

    The picture is a bit dark but it looks good in person. Now I can add a little chalk to give some more variations in colour.

    Because this is untried I weather both sides of the strip wood so I get more choices in the next step when I glue on the siding. I search through the entire pile and pick out all the really good boards which I will use for the front and left side. As opposed to the directions I will start with the important walls and use all the great wood there and then move on to the less important walls and use up the left over wood.
  • Joel,

    Along with a few other SWSM O-Scale modelers, I have this kit waiting for the arrival of the RR Camp Truck Repair Shop kit, Part 2 of this group of 3 structures. I have even picked up a few truck kits to include in a future diorama. I'll be following your build of this kit closely as I am a fan of your builds.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ

  • i echo what dave said exactly.
  • I always detail both sides to increase my odds of more detail. Plus as everyone notices the wood stains differently on either side. One side is often better than the other.
    Very nice work Joel. I would not expect less.
  • I typically have stained (CA) as well , however I’m finding there are times ( when the roof is removable) that I want the interior of the boards stained differently because the interior and exterior will not weather the same....not sure how to accomplish that as staining with chalk/alcohol is rather messy and both sides get covered during the first staining...any thoughts?
  • Try Copic or Prismcolor pens. Or both. Will stain only one side. Add additional weathering with Stabico, or Prisamcolor, pencils. Also Thombow pens are nice.
    Many great choices. You can stain both sides and alter with Pens, but would only be able to go darker on one side.
    Color selection is HUGE. Local car dealer uses the word HUGE to the point that I would never consider buying a new car from him. I guess you have to see the commercial.
  • edited February 2019
    Perhaps you could show us an example of where youve done this Ed as I find the pens too dark, uncontrollable and monotone.

    Terry, Ive successfully done CA in different colours on each side of boards for the effect you describe.
    5 boards at a time, keep them tight together, stain the lighter colour first. once stained lift the boards straight up so that the under side doesn't get in the mess. wipe the working area clean, repeat for all boards. Once dry do exactly the same for the otherside of the boards in the darker colour.
    It takes a little longer but isn't really hard or a big deal.
    My locoshop is grey on the outside and brown on the inside, all done with CA washes/colouring, which is similar to what you want, I've also done it on a few other builds, no problems.

  • Thanks Ed and Karl....I also wondered about laying the strip wood on blue painters tape, staining one side, letting dry and lifting off....repeating process for other side....all 3 methods are tedious and time consuming but time vs effect is a worthy trade off on a SWSM kit
  • edited February 2019
    Joel....sorry, it appears I’m highjacking your thread....maybe if Karl or Brett can move my comments about staining over to the Technique subject
  • Don't worry about it Terry as long as it's modelling related I don't mind people chiming in. I agree with Karl it is not too hard to do, I did it on the welding shop part of ONeils. I found I got less bleed to the under surface if I didn't work on glass - typically I use MDF or some absorbent wood so if some leaks between the boards it doesn't wreck the other side.
  • Started putting done the siding. I followed the directions at first but then I realized instead of cutting the siding after it is all laid down it might make more sense to finish each piece of siding and glue it to the wall using a small spacer to make sure the overhang is always exactly 1/16". Worked like a charm.rsz_img_3645_1
    You can see the colouring of the boards better in these photos too.

    And now the complete first wall (before detailing)rsz_img_3654
  • favorite part of a build. Wood looks wonderful Joel with great natural variety in color tones.
  • Joel,

    Some good tips in today's postings.

    Interesting to see how the coloring of the same clapboards changes a bit from photo to photo. I think it just shows that often times we get a bit tense when we post photos that don't match what we see from the naked eye to the camera photo. To many variables among focal length, light, aperture and lens speed to wig out.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • The only right way is your way. If you are not satisfied with the results, try something different next time. None of the methods are a cure for cancer, so really no big deal.
    Enjoy. Share. Keep the forum strong.
  • Very nice wall with natural color tones. What ever the technique you use, it's the result that counts.
  • your technique produced a very nice set of colors on the wood. Great looking wall.
  • Joel that came out perfect nice variation.

  • karl,
    please explain what you mean when you refer to CA.
Sign In or Register to comment.