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The Curmudgeon (Mike) and the Punk (Dustin) build the Deer Creek Mine

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  • I also wanted them to have a worn metal look. Whatever came out of the gates would have wore on the metal. This is a pic of checking the color against the tipple.image
  • edited April 2015
    Here is what I finally came up with. Its as close as I can get to what I was thinking.imageimage
  • Next I added all of the truss rods. I used my Iron paint again. I like that I could add a sheen to the rod. I can always hit them with a little chalk if it doesn't fit the overall look later.imageimage
  • While waiting on things to dry here and there I built the landing. It was pretty straight forward.imageimage
  • So, here is where it stands right now. All the bin gates are attached. Truss rods run. I have to build some steps next. Then I'll move up a level to the tipple house. I have already started sanding the walls for the tipple house.imageimage
  • Dustin and Mike, just caught up with this build, fantastic modeling and explanations. Really looking forward to following along.

    Paul
  • Turning out very nice in all aspects.
  • Dustin, that is some nice work. i'll have to get some of that iron paint- I'm almost out of Blacken-it.
  • Very nice, Dustin. Everything looks tight and square.

    Just a thought on the gates... I saw that you didn't want them to look rusted, but they almost look too new. I wonder if a light dusting of gray chalk (or even a little gold ochre) would give them a touch of age and also help make the details pop a little bit more. Maybe just on the raised parts (the geared track and the rivet plates on the side). That might add a little definition and depth to those details.
    Again...just thinking our loud.
    Looking forward to your shack on top. You're getting to the fun stuff next!
  • Bill, I have been wandering the same thing for the last couple of days. I do feel they needed a little brushing to bring out more of the detail. I just wasn't sure of what color would do it. I was leaning towards a gray of some sort. I like the idea of the gold ochre. Up close the detail looks okay, but with any distance the gates just wash out and have no deffiniton to them. They just look like black gates. I'll post my results soon.

    I had a great chat with Mike yesterday as well. It was funny that both of us seemed to have the same idea of what we would like to do with the mine as far as a dio. The interesting part is we had never mentioned it to the other one before.
  • For the doors might I suggest using graphite to bring out a metallic shine on the gear and teeth on the door followed by a greasy solution? I like "engine oil" paint from AK but you could easily use a gloss medium with gray/brown pigments to make the grease.
  • If you are not aware Dustin's mother passed away last week. Our prayers and sympathy go out to Dustin and his family. May she rest in piece.
  • I'm plodding away and I'm finishing up the ore bin. One tool I use whenever I can is 3M 465 transfer adhesive. Perfect for adhering the boards to the paper side wall templates. Again, I make a copy of the original template in case I screw it up. Using the tape instead of glue is quicker, neater, and of course makes warping not a factor.

    A few months ago Brett put me on to Jax Pewter Black as a replacement for the A-West Blacken-it I had used for many years. I think the Jax adheres even better to the white metal castings, and I also find that it does a great job on brass wire. Shown are most of the castings after a minute soak in the Jax, then rinsed, but before buffing with Q-tips, felt wheel (from Dremel- hand held on the little pieces), etc. Some will also get chalk and/or acrylic paint. Brett's castings get better and better, which I thought impossible. This is one great kit- I'm anxious to use some of the other jigs and templates included.

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    The last three pics are of the bin with all but a few details to be added. Some clean-up is needed, and I need to figure out some more or different weathering on the gates. Animated (working) gates are probably not going to make an appearance. At least I'm thinking about it- kind of like I always think I'm going to add lighting to my structures and dioramas. Like my logging models, this was from an era that pre-dated electricity.

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  • Mike, that is some fantastic work. The grey really turned out well.
  • the bins are looking great- nice technique. This Mr. Metal paint sounds interesting. I wonder what it is - it looks great,almost like buffed blackened white metal. The transparent orange oxide is a neat idea too…
  • edited May 2015
    Thanks Dustin and James. I've started the tipple house and I'll try to make a few points not already covered. I find out that modeling "faded" barn red or boxcar red paint is even more difficult than "peeling" red paint. After researching Google images, a Dr. Ben chart, and some trial and error on the kitchen counter, any fading of most red shades becomes pink. Here are some examples:

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    After I painted all the siding boards Apple Barrel "Barn Red" 20577, I sanded lightly as Brett suggested one hour later. I only did half, and results aren't as good the longer past one hour you wait. Since my base color was the grey A/I stain, just the right amount of sanding left some of the A/I intact. Too much sanding and I had to reapply more A/I, or add some alcohol and gray chalk with a fine brush to the bare wood areas. I also used a scratch brush from Micro-Mark that works like a mechanical pencil, especially for board ends.

    I've gone back and forth, and have had several discussions with Dustin on nail holes (nail heads). I've probably participated in two dozen threads over the years debating the subject. I believe from 100+ feet away you wouldn't see average size nail heads on most wooden buildings. I've put thousands of nail holes on models over the years, but no more on HO models. The biggest reason is: It's easier not to.

    When sanding one or more painted boards I found it easier to NOT round the corners by placing them on a 1" X 2"- somehow it was easier to sand them flat and not the edges.

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    So after all that I have built one little wall (actually more than that but this post is already way too long). The result isn't great, but is something I can work with. These big close-up
    photos are for my benefit, not yours. They not only humble the builder, they tell you where all the warts, fuzzies, blemishes, glue spots, and shiny spots are. Your cell phone camera is one of your most invaluable tools.

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  • Mike, I like the red tones. What are your plans to hide the natural wood showing up?

    Marty
  • James- that range of paints has some interesting characteristics. I want to try AK's true metal range. It is waxed bases so it can be thinned and buffet.

    Mike and I seem to be a meeting place as far as our builds go.
    The Runner does some great work.

    Here are the stairwells complete. I liked them so much I built them twice Mostly my fault.image
  • Here are a few of the construction pics of the tipple house going together.
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    Once these were together its time to grain and stain!

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    I save all kinds of stuff, the tube came from the box my wife treadmill came in.
  • Thats a lot of lumber. image
  • Here is where I took a hard left from everyone else. I chose not to use the red. I am going to build this kit alongside another kit. More info on that later. I will say both kits came from the same mind, just not manufactures. It will be a larger dio with two mine structures and both are going to be grayish wood. Due to the local of both. In my head it sounds good. Lets hope I can pull it off. So here is the tipple with wood going on.
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  • I wanted it to have the look that cheap paint was used and it is peeling already. Even though the age of the mine isn't that old. I may tone down the natural wood some. I want to get the roof on first though. Here is the tipple house all clamped up.
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    It is a bit different than the red.
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  • Here are a few shots of the tipple being lined up and the ore car rail at the top of the tipple. imageimageimage
  • Once the tipple house is on, it really starts to take shape.
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    I like this look down into the tipple house. To bad so much of this isn't seen.
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    Here are the steps glued in place, with the steps glued to the correct side.
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  • The NBW are some kind of fun! They sure add to the build though.
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  • I am on to the rafters now. This is one of those builds you can't help but stare at as you go.
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    Thats were I am at the moment. It has been nice to lose myself in building a little here lately. I am like Mike though I use my phone camera as a tool as much as any that is on my bench.
  • Dustin, that is really coming together. Seeing your hand in the photo give perspective on the size. That's quite a cutting board you have there.

    Mike, I like the red siding effect.
  • Thanks James. Sometimes the actual size of things gets lost because we see so many close up pics. At least it does for me. The mat is from a craft store Micheal's or AC Moore. I use the 50,55,60% off coupons to buy stuff. A $40 mat gets pretty cheap with 60% off.
  • Gents a real treat watching u go at it!!!
  • Thanks Brett. I am enjoying myself. Mike keeps me on my toes.
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