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Comments
Dave
Karl.A
I love the colors, the fit and overall finish. Thank you so very much for the effort you make showing us all how you do things.
Respectfully,
John
It's been two weeks since the last update, but I think you will like what's in to-days update.
I left off before having just finished building the Freight Porch. I continued with completing the Baggage Shed.
The Baggage Shed starts with a laser cut stud framework and weathered siding.
After roofing with tissue paper and weathering it looks like this.
A view block is added,
Then the attic sections built,
With siding and windows,
I had to add some supports to keep the attic walls plumb,
Roofing shingles sheets are coloured,
Roofing is attached to the walls,
Roof brackets installed,
Chimneys are coloured,
and a few more small things are done to produce this front view,
And its not so bad from the rear of the structure,
See all the gory detailed build steps at,
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1633519853539808.1073741878.1406375389587590&type=1&l=2e0469e137
I enjoyed building this structure and I believe it would be a great standalone structure. I now have to revert to layout designer and build and lay track so I can continue with adding all the details that have come with the kit. (Maybe I will jump to the castings next, but there is pressure from the investor wanting a return on their investment and to get some trains running.)
Marty
Most excellent!!!. The Passenger Station is my favorite part of this kit followed by the fuel depot. Lots of interesting character in this building which you have added even more with the knotholes. Keep up the great work. I think you will be at the finish line soon.
Jim
Beautiful work!
Respectfully,
John
Dave
Jim, i did find the passenger station did try my patience, but worth ever curse I used.
John, learning how to focus is the trick. The rest of the non-modelling time is dreaming of how to do the next step. So in reality it is mant more hours.
Dave, it was a vary conscious effort to ensure there was variations in the buildings. It challenged me and helped me grow as a modeller. It's not fun unless you grow and force yourself to try something new.
I do really appreciate the positive feedback...can't wait to do the group build. Until then I will do some puttering around with castings and thinking about how the four kits (shipyard, essentials, Twin Mills and landing) will all fit in the layout. Any ideas?
Meanwhile, I will be attending the NMRA Convention Show tomorrow.
Marty
Dave
It's been awhile since my last posting. Summer chores have finally caught up with me and all the rain we have been getting is making me mow the lawn more. I know I should not have fertilized the lawn this year.
It's been a struggle to work on the model because it is the part I least like to do - castings. Yes, I know there are some of you who live for painting castings and I'm not one of them. I have no sense of colour, have shaking hands and bad eyes. Ok, I got new reading glasses, so the eye thing has been "fixed". So I've been finding all sorts of excuses for not working on the castings. Brett, you put too many castings in you kits! Stop doing that! Just kidding.
Como Sand as a base coat for wooden castings and Camo Black for metal resin castings (I normally use Grey or brown, but this time I decided on black. ( I should have stayed with grey or brown.)
I tried to do some brown tone chalks on for the wooden castings, but I did not like it. I eventually, returned to dry brushing Roof Brown instead.
As I worked, or tried to avoid working, my desk got messier and messier.
It took me a while to decide on the colours of the trunks and luggage. I eventually reverted to my daughters expert advice (history major for Victorian era stuff) and she said most was deep olive green and dark blue. So that is what I did using the airbrush and the splatter technique.
There was a few workbenches. I seemed to struggle through it.
Then there were steel drums, more steel drums and wouldn't you know it...more steel drums. There were stacked drums, piles of drum, drum holding drums, drums holding workbenches. If there were any more drums I might rename the kit to Drummondville, or start my own steel drum band. Gosh, what am I going to do with so many step drums? Paint them I guess.
Ok, just take a look at all those drums!
I still not done with the resin castings. I have garbage cans, oil tanks and all the metal castings to figure out what to do with them. That's going to take me the rest of my life to complete. Sigh!
As before if you want to be bored with tons of drum pictures, visit the Facebook site below.
'Till next time.
Marty
In a marketplace where other kit manufacturer's have actually reduced the quantity of castings included in their offerings over time, my kits are still busting with them. Gotta love it! Your castings Marty are looking great, keep at it.
Here are some snaps of the oil tanks, minus their fittings.
The first and oil tanks were given a light airbrush coat of Signal Yellow and then blotted using a terry towel, this mottled the finish. Then brown chalk was dusted into the areas where the primer showed through. I used Burnt Umber Winston & Newton water mixable oil paint to highlight the straps and where the metal seams were. DioSol was then used to run the paint and then various rust coloured chalks were used to blend with the oil paint. Then black chalk was applied on the bottom edges to simulate oil leaks over time. I then dry brushed the entire drum with a very light black to make the rivets pop. The black chalk was used to show some spills from the top lid down the side of the tank.
The second oil tank.
Oil tank 3 was given a light airbrush coat of Olive Green and then blotted using a terry towel. This mottled the finish. Then rusty brown chalk was dusted into the areas where the primer showed through. Then black chalk was applied on the bottom edges to simulate oil leaks over time. I then dry brushed the entire drum with a very light black chalk. The black chalk was used to show some spills from the top lid down the side of the tank. (I may come back to this casting and do some highlighting with the Burnt Umber oils.)
For oil tank 4 I used Burnt Umber oil to dab/blotch it onto the drum in a random pattern. I then used the same Burnt Umber to highlight each of the seams. I painted the based with a 50/50 solution of PollyS Aged Concrete then dusted/rubbed in a rusty brown mix of old chalk scrapings. As I was doing this the casting slipped out of my hand and fell top down into the Dixie cup where I had the Burnt Umber oil wash. I quickly took it out and the wash randomly flowed from the top down. I quickly took some rusty brown and black chalks and applied them onto the wet areas. I then dusted the rivets with an orange and red chalk mixture. For the concrete base I dry brushed it with some rust chalks and then dry brushed it with a black chalk.
I feel much better now. Off to the next paragraph in the construction manual.
Marty
DJ
Respectfully,
John
I tend to use the same colors as you for primers. I did find a very dark gray auto primer that I like though I'm not sure it matters.
Here's an experiment for you: take some of the oil paints you have on your bench and mix up a nice icky black and thin it a little. Paint it on a practice piece in narrow streaks. Let that dry for about 5 minutes then take a brush, dip in mineral spirits and dry it off on a paper towel. Lightly pull the brush down on the painted streaks and watch them turn into deposits of dirty oil. It's a very subtle streak you are looking for. Once this dries for a couple of days you can do another layer if you like.
Thanks for the comments.
I find that it takes a number of attempts to get it right. One of my biggest challenge is to find out what is right for the scene, era, etc I am trying to model. Most of the time it's not settled until I'm done. Ken, that's how the layering ends up happening.
Bryan, is this what you were thinking of? I know the tank is only ~10 years old and hardly used. While my tank is more like 20 years old. I attempted to do it, but the DioSol ate through the paints. I will re-try using water with the mixable oil paint.
Until next time.
Marty
Here is a pic of the updated Oil Tank 1.
An I've done the first pass of the metal castings. Here are some samples.
Marty
If using acrylics you can coat with Dulcote when dry to protect the layers. I like using oils but they take a lot longer to dry. Oh yeah, it take a bit of practice to get it looking right. I'm still not where I want it to be myself.
Whatever you did, you got some nice streaking on the tank above.
Great work on the castings mate. Love it.
Here's a tip I use on my screw jacks, gently drag the edge of an exacto blade up and down the threaded portion. It will give the raised areas of the thread a polished look and make them look in use. It makes them pop.
Great work, keep it coming.
Karl.A
Dave