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Comments
Thats a super SUPER close up so the pores are going to show on some shingles.
What I usually do when doing it this way is, lay them all, then,
do some weathering and blending with chalks, this will fill in some of those pores.
final step, (when everything is good and dry get a new, sharp exacto and make lots of vertical random slices into the entire surface (lightly). Not full length, just quick random slices.
It doesn't take long because it is a small roof but it will give you that vertical grain/ridge effect of real cedar and give it dimensionality and depth.
As always do a test piece first to get the feel, but looking at how good it is now it will be a great result.
The trusses were not glued in place. So the whole unit will come out to make the roof and trusses removable.
I decided to go on and adde the first row of shingles plus one on the second row to show the overlap.
I remember the problem I had with warping when I did the roof of the Handcar shed. I removed the trusses and purlins.
I turned the roof structure upside down and put a weight on the trusses to help hold it flat until the glue dries. Thanks for looking and as usual all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Great build to date. You have got my modeling juices flowing again with your roof build. I am looking forward to your next steps.
In my opinion Ken hit the nail square on the head with his comment about the first thing a viewer sees is the roof. The second thing I believe viewers see is the vehicles and then an interior that is lit up. Perhaps those two elements could easily be reversed.
I keep getting drawn back to viewing the build of the Red Oak Garage by Chuck Doan as well as the modeling of Tom Johnson in part because they use no figures in their modeling dioramas. Both modelers seem to focus on structures, vehicles and scenery without any figures. An interesting concept.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
The second row of shingles was added. I think these look more natural because there is a more uniform color. Still differences between shingles but more subtle than the ones on my handcar shed roof. I also added the rafters for the lean to shed. I wanted a removable roof for the lean to. I used double sided tape on some paper and then spaced the purlins out and epoxied the corrugated roof onto the purlins.
The roofing was weathered with PC board etchant and that is all that was done in this picture. I wanted to make sure that the lean to roof would fit under the overhang of the shingle roof. So putting them both in place there was enough clearance.
I added a little Rust All the lean to roof in this picture. I will probably add more rust later.
While glue was drying and other waiting times I grained and stained the siding wood for the tool shed. I want this building to be newer and in better repair than the rigging shed. I used shades of brown chalk and a lighter hand with the wire brushes.
From now on I will be adding one row of shingles and working on the tool shed while the glue dries on the shingles. Thanks for looking and as usual all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Slow and steady bud, works every time.
Above are the four walls with siding attached. The next kit will be the Lineside Shed Which I plan to build as an almost new building. Any comments or suggestions are welcomed. Randy
The newer wood tones and differentiating the structures will really work out well in the finished scene.
Here is the rigging shed as it looks now with the roofs in place.
That was Terry's post in my thread that you are referring to.
I then worked on the deck of the platform. I wasted my time doing two pieces of boards on the deck. Most of them ended up inside the shed.
The legs and braces were next for the platform. The Ultimation sander was a big help in getting the legs as square and equal length as possible.
The next few work sessions will be to glue the shed to the platform, add details in the shed and on the platform. Thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy