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Comments
As for your question on the top row, yes, I always add a final shorter row in keeping with the reveal of the rest of the roof.
Meaning, add a final row with the same reveal as the rest of the roof and then cut off the overhang flush with the ridgeline.
The reveal and overlap is what would keep it watertight IRL, it also makes the roof look much better and uniform, a long length top row of shingles always seems to make a roof look unfinished and uneven to my eye.
Although your ridge cap is very close to where the final reveal would be I would still add a final row, it will be visible in quite a few places and the uneven edge will lead nicely up to and under the ridge cap, I think it will look better IMO.
A little nugget of info:
Shingles were cut in a mill, either permanent or temporary, and therefore their lengths would all be equal due to the machinery that cuts the 'rounds' that the bolts and then the shingles were cut from.
ie: the machine would be set to cut 24"(or 18") rounds out of a log. These rounds would be split into bolts and then fed to the sawyers on the shingle cutting machines. This results in all of the shingles being exactly the same length (24"/18"), although width varies.
Shakes are cut and split by hand, the logs are cut into rounds by hand, split by hand into bolts and then the bolts are split into 'shakes' by hand.
That is why a shake roof is much more uneven (and interesting) than a shingle roof.
And, that's the difference between shakes and shingles, AFAIK
Some straight edge clippers to finish off the ridge line is what I personally use to even things out after they are applied and dried, and then after that, the ridge cap will hide any slight remaining variations at the peak.
Thanks for the comments and help with the shakes. Randy
Like I said previously, the ridge cap is just the right length for the reveal but, that extra tiny dimension underneath really makes a difference and those uneven edges peaking out really make a big difference, even for such a small amount.
That really looks superb and just as I thought it would. All that layering, depth and dimensionality looks just perfect.
Very nicely done indeed. Awesome.
I then added the first course of shakes.
I only did the one course because I wanted the glue to dry and set up under a weight to hopefully keep it from warping like the other side. As always comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Randy
The Second Picture has only the overhead light about overtop of the stove.
The last picture has both lights lit.
Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Randy
Could these be on separate switches? That would be cool.
I feel ya on the surgery. Had that done some time ago. One eye focused close and the other far. Took me a long time to figure out depth perception. I've pondered making a magnifier visor with different strengths for each eye but never got around to it.
I also took a picture of the next two courses of shakes.
Bothe ends of the back half of the roof are warped up. The right more than the left. I soked each end with water and put them under weight. Hope this works this time. So far the front side is staying flat because I am only doing one course at a time. I then put that side of the roof under a weight until it dries. Takes longer the get the roof finished but hopefully the roof will stay flat. Thanks for looking and as always any comments or suggestions are welcomed. Randy
The now subdued lighting is perfect and shows the interior off so well.
The shingles are coming along beautifully.
From what I've learned,
the curling/curving of the roof (and in other situations walls) is caused by the glue contracting as it cures.
Now yes weighting it down while it dries is good practice over night and works great when building as per the manual and is the way to go.
However, I've learned that for an unsupported roof panel (or wall) the glue continues to shrink and contract over time, for at least a week or two until all moisture is expelled from the glue.
Obviously building as per the manual when we are gluing the roof down (or walls together) this is not a problem as the glued down roof is held level and prevents this.
When deviating from the manual the 'loose' roof panels need to be weighted for a longer period until all moisture has expelled from the glue.
As the glue outgasses and releases the moisture it shrinks, thus pulling the shingles/battens/boards closer together, as this is only happening on one side of the panel it causes the 'curl'.
I've found that building the 'deviated, removable' panels as early as possible in my build process and then just leaving them to one side under weights until needed later, (usually a week or two, most often a month or two, and of course with me, sometimes a year or ten) then this resolves the problem.
The panels will dry, and then cure completely by the time I'm ready to use them. After the curing and outgassing process is complete, under weight, the panels never curl again and will always remain flat.
(Unless of course you wet them for some reason and resoften the glue, at that point weight and leave to cure again.)
I will wait another day for the glue to dry under a weight before I add another course. The other thing that I have done is to stain the rocks walls of the pump house. I went on with the artist colors I started with. They were a close match to the colors on Rich's layout as was shown in an earlier post. Here are the two side walls.
I just colored them with the five artist colors I posted before. Then I dusted on some 408.5 chalk to blend the colors together. The front and back side walls had bricks to color. So first the artist paints and chalk. I then painted the bricks with a cheep red paint and allowed them to dry. I then mixed some soapy water with Poly-S aged concrete paint. Then I flowed it over the bricks to represent the moater. After that dried I freckled some of the bricks with black, brown, and white chalk and alcohol. This way not all of the bricks were the same color.
The last new thing that I did was to build the little table in the breezeway. I glued the water cooler over the table. I got to thinking about and decided that the workers needed something to drink from. So I made some cups from styrene tube with a .012 wire handle.
Thanks,Tom, Kevin, and Bryan for liking the lights. As usual all comments and suggestion are appreciated. Thanks Randy