Official O Scale Truck Repair Build Thread



  • Joel,

    Looking awesome!!!

  • Thanks everyone for checking in. Not sure if I should bore you with new castings everyday but some of these are just so well detailed and a joy to "paint". For these I used a base of Khaki spray paint and then blotched on various greys and tans. Then instead of ink and alcohol I used black chalk (just a titch) with alcohol to bring out the grain. I tried Roberts suggestion of the pastel pencils and artist stump for some of the highlights. rsz_img_4526
  • Nice work Joel.
  • edited May 2019

    I, for one, hardly find your experimentation with different techniques of weathering resin castings uninteresting or boring in any way shape or form. Quite the contrary, I find your resourcefulness and technique experimentation to be intensely interesting, thought provocative, educational and broadening. By all means, please continue! I learn something new each time I read one of your postings and look at the accompanying photos.

    Thanks for taking the time to post each of your experiments and the photos that illustrate the results.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • I agree with Dave. I like seeing different experiments on finishes for everything including castings. Keep up the good work. If you want bonus points, some smudges from dirty hands might look good around the handles of the cabinet. If you want double bonus points, make some screw heads and install them in the holes in the hinges.

  • Joel,
    I enjoy hearing about different techniques. can't have too many tricks in the bag!
  • Thanks Dave, Bryan and Tom I'll continue on my merry way. Still trying to find some screws for those holes Bryan.
  • Ok Bryan I really wish you didn't bring that up but I did find a few watch maker screws and added them to the hinges. A bit of time wasted but it does look a bit better.rsz_img_4546
    Another casting done. There is a brownish/rust colour on the hinges and then I dab a little water mixable oil paint and then blot on some orange chalk:rsz_img_4544
  • Talking about detailing ....Even no one will probably notice if they didn't know, it looks great , and YOU know it's there...!!! Nice 'wood' color aswel.
  • Double bonus points to you sir. Now I'm going to go digging through my watch parts container to see if I have any.
  • Joel
    No way is that wasted time. It really makes the hinges look great!
  • If the screws came from a watch it was not a waste of TIME. ........Carl..........
  • Tick-Tock!! Nice job Joel and a great detail.

  • Watch out, Carl is making funnies. A damn good one I must admit.
  • Ed you know what happens when I get into that nail polish remover.
  • I am well aware.
  • This weekend I tried to do a bit of work on labeling jars. I've tried many techniques and still I'm not pleased. The best was when I photocopied onto a piece of tissue paper but aside from jamming my printer the best copies were always slightly blurry and less vivid. I decided to try the old method used for signs on buildings and sand the backs of the labels until they are almost see through.rsz_img_4565
    Then I cut them out with a new blade. If you remember I primed the bottles and cans with white as these thin labels will pick up the colour underneath.rsz_img_4579
    Now some very careful painting and some chalk weatheringIMG_4583
    I feel like I'm getting really close here.
  • Joel,

    Another great experiment executed with some fine results. Interesting how the red on the selected details in the second photo didn't bleed through the thinned paper more noticeably.

    Are you using Titebond III (waterproof glue) or a similar product to fasten the labels to the details? Surprising that the thinned labels don't pucker when wet with the adhesive.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • Kevin,
    The labels turned out really great. The thickness of the paper doesn't show. Great experiment.
  • Dave, the details are the same ones in both photos. I carefully painted around each label in red so the labels are still on white backrounds. I actually just dipped the label in matte varnish ( water based) and they clung to the casting beautifully. I had to reposition one so I put a drop of water on the label and carefully straightened it. Sort of like working with waterslide decals. This is not an simple solution and there is a risk of wrecking the label sheet when sanding or of painting over parts of the label and destroying it trying to get the paint off.
    For a foreground site though I think this extra work is worth it. Personal taste.
  • The extra work pays off for sure !!
  • Joel,

    Thanks for that explanation of how you did the labels on the cast detail items painted red. Very effective method in the hands of an experienced modeler.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • Well done, and explained. Thank you for the lesson.
  • Hi Joel

    Apologies for the late arrival to the party. Wow what a party it is.

    Some wonderful tips being picked up as I read through your build. Look forward to lots more.
  • I think you're on the right track Joel. Looks great despite the very close scrutiny...will look fabulous at scale.
  • Welcome Wes, Thanks Ed, Ken, Dave and Robert.
    Here's my mock of the first interior wall. Still some work to do and some clutter to add but it's getting there. rsz_img_4592
  • many how'd you do that questions come to mind......
  • Nice composition and beautifully executed. Bravo !!
  • Excellent! Is that a label on the beer bottle and oil bottle? Not much you could do to make this any better but a rag in the Valvoline box draped over the corner might look right at home.
Sign In or Register to comment.