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Comments
Moving onto the store front, we have the windows and doors to install. Same process as on the main walls, just a matter keeping track of all the pieces.
After a lot of peeling and sticking, end result:
... and the window on the Shipyard sign (front) wall:
Onto the back wall (store front) wall dormer. A piece of strip wood was glued along the bottom edge of the dormer since the sides of the dormer are resting on the wall's strip wood. I thought the gap should be filled in in case I decide to add a light inside.
A post-it pad (yellow) painted with Floquil Depot Buff for the window shades:
That's it for now, next I'll be getting to the store wall's dormer rafters.
'til Next,
Paul
It's been awhile since my last posting, we had our main floor and up-stairs hallway (hardwood) sanded and stained along with painting all the walls (not me ... the contractors). The floor stain they used was latex based ... no toxic smells in the house.
My work bench in the garage had to be secured from the contractors and dust!. Managed a bit of modeling to the point where the walls are almost ready to be glued together.
Back to the build...
More staining of strip wood (this will be the last photo like this, since most of the construction steps begin with staining the strip wood (I'll just mention the chalk # used). I'm finding its better to stain as you go, provides a bit more variation in the end colors. A & 408.3 for the dormer floor rafters:
Rafters glued in place:
Now onto the store front sides, the back of the sheet was sanded very thin (to the point of where the sign's visible from the
back) and then the (dry) 408.3 powder treatment (I don't think the stick will make it though this build...).
Here's a pic of the back side of the signs, barely see the print.
Used my pair of right angles (one acquired at the FSMR Expo'11, the other included in the kit) and clamp to lign up and lightly glue the sign boards together (also stained with A&408.3)
Ready for gluing the signs to the boards:
Once the glue dryed, turned over and bent to separate (with a sharp knife) the individual boards and then glued the sign back together again, end results:
While at the FSMR Expo back in Oct. I attended Dave Ravelia's clinic on vignettas(?) (small diorama's), which consisted of starting with a bunch of O-scale strip wood and creating a fence scene (wood distressed with a wood burning tool and Drift Wood stain). This was a lot of fun (only took 2 hours), good practice for when I begin scenicing the Shipyard.
That's it for now, next I'll be moving onto the dormer roofs.
'tit Next,
Paul
Thats some really fine work Paul. What is the long foliage you used in the vignette?
Wes, I think the foliage was from Woodland Scenics, comes on a wire armature and you can bend and shape any way you like.
Now that the house is (almost) back in order, I have time to catch up with the posting (I'm lagging by about a hundred pic's.... currently I'm about to get up on the roof and start shingling...).
Back to the build, the store front dormer roof had it's underside painted Floquil Roof Brown:
The tar paper was sprayed Floquil Box Car Red once dry a light coating of Testor's Dull Coat:
Before the Dull Coat was dry, grey powders were sprinkled on and brushed (dipped in straight Alcohol lightly) vertically creating a streaking effect.
The sheets were then cut into strips and then chopped up into 1/2" to 1 3/4" strips.
For safe keeping, a zip lock bag was used to hold the pieces which will be used later on a couple of the outbuildings also.
White glue (Weldbond) was used to attach the rolled roofing to the dormer roof.
Cutting the roofing along the seam line of the dormer:
Ready now for the sides of the dormer roof:
Finished, ready for gluing to the srtore front:
A bit of roofing was left on the wall side of the dormer so that when glued to the wall, there's a bit going up the wall side, kind of like flashing.
That's it for now, next I'll be attaching the dormer (and finish off the tar-paper seams) and then moving onto the awnings for the store front.
'til Next
Paul
.... second try, seem to have lost the pic's on the first attemp ....
Managed to complete the store front dormer a couple of weeks ago,
just haven't had the time to post the progress. Here's the gluing of the dormer roof to the dormer with the aid of the bus-bar weights:
PS Tranished Black and glue used on the upper portion of the dormer roof for flashing:
Now for the seam covers:
The completed dormer roof. note: I'll need to come back and adjust the weathering a bit since
it appears the weathering on the seams is running in the wrong direction.
A pic of the jig for cutting the dormer roof rafters:
Rafters installed:
Onto the store front awnings: the treatment here is to sprinkle grey (704.7 and .9) pastel on the paper stock
and then with straight A brush strokes down in one direction, the effect is quite convincing for
streaks on the awnings:
The start of the casting treament (and there are a lot of them): Blacken-it for the side wall dust collector:
Installation of the awnings (Weldbond glue), just a matter of being careful to keep the glue on the inside of the awning:
The end results:
That's it for now, coming up will be the completion of the side walls and then onto glueing the walls together.
'til Next,
Paul
Don't know if it's the angle of the photo or not but the upper rafter tails look to be leaning. Wouldn't want that to take away from the rest of the wall.
I have a question about your Blacken-it. It looks like your pill bottle has quite a bit of sediment in it. Does it still work OK if you let the sediment settle and re-use the stuff?
... it's been awhile and I need to Ketchup, so I'll do my best here:
Now that I'm down in Florida on vacation, basking on the beach, sunburnt and hiding in the shade ... the build will continue:
The side wall has a dormer with door and stairs. There are locating holes on the back side of the wall, a small drill was used to punch through the wall. This places the dormer properly on the wall (you can see the small holes in the siding).
I added a small piece of plain strip wood so there would not be a gap between the dormer floor and wall (just in case I add lights later).
The dormer glued to the wall:
Floor joists attached to dormer:
Now back to the dust collector, a bit of burnishing (polishing) with a Dremel and buffing attachment. Puts on a really nice patina.
A comparison with an un-treated casting:
That's it for now, next will be adding the dormer doors platform. Almost at the point of gluing the walls together and moving up to the roof...
'til Next,
Sorry Bryan, missed answering you're question in the last post ... The rafter is one of the optical things ... looks right in 3-D. As for the Blacken-It, I pour the top part back into the main bottle and then let the residue sit at the bottom of the bottle (please correct me if this is not proper....), not sure what to do with the slime but at the moment I'm keeping it in the plasitc medicine bottles (comments anyone ?).
At the moment we’re down in Florida enjoying the sun and starting our summer season (2- weeks on the Gulf beaches near Tampa and then back to Montreal to enjoy the pool…). Tampa … must be close to Odessa, Florida … Maderia Beach about 50 miles south …. Open house 3rd Saturday of the Month … May 19th … I’m in Florida .. gotta go, it’s our anniversary (12 years ago married on a beach in Clearwater Fl.), amazingly Gina agreed to the trip up north to Odessa and we both had a great time at the Sundance Central (of course a visit to the beach we were married on (on) the way back…. All in all, it was a great day, I have a ton of pic’s and videos of the Sundance and here’s a few:
If you find yourself anywhere near Odessa, Florida on the 3rd weekend of the month, it is time well spent visiting the Sundance Central ( actually the “Suncoast Center for fine scale modeling).
I have a lot of other pic’s and videos but I’ll need to spend time sorting them out.
Now, onto the build (… you know … the Shipyard .. I hope it comes close to what I’ve seen at the Suncoast Center). There’s a staircase and landing on one side of the building, a template assists in locating the planks:
Double sided tape over the template and laying the frame, followed by laying the planks, further distressing to come after everything dries:
Ready for mounting:
Application to the side wall:
The side wall is set aside to dry and we move onto the loading dock wall. At this time the instructions say to locate the dormers on the loading dock wall (from the back use a pointed tip to mark the location points on the front of the wall).
Next will be adding the wall details, loading dock canopy, and (mistakenly …. uggh gotta follow the directions...) right wall dormers (but it all turns out well after the wall glue up and (amazingly) the roof fit properly (the right wall dormers are supposed to be added after the walls are glued together ... my mistake) ... testimony to Brett's laser cut holes....).
It's back to the beach tomorrow 'til Friday and then back to Montreal (to finish off the roof ... another story in itself ... ).
‘til Next
Paul
If I didn't mention it earlier, I really like the wood coloring that you've got going on this project. The variation among the boards and the weathering is quite nice. This is going to be a beauty when it's done. Glad to see you're back at it.
Karl.A
Thanks for the comments, always appreciated.
Back from Florida but still on vacation this week so I should have plenty of time to ketchup with the build (now that the back-yard is opened for the summer).
Only a few details remain to be added to the walls prior to glue up, first off is the saw-dust collector on the Left Wall. The casting has been treated with Blacken-It and buffing. 5 minute Epoxy was used to glue the casting to the wall. I’m not familiar with using epoxy (typically I use Weldbond white glue), so I did a test using PS Grimy Black and Tarnished Black for the sealing tar around the dust collector. I chose the Tarnished Black mixed with the Epoxy to glue the saw-dust collector to the wall:
A piece of strip wood was used to support the back side of the casting while the glue sets, a small block will then be cut to fit in the gap between the wall and casting.
Now for the mistake … after punching through the locator holes for the Right Wall dormers I proceeded to glue the dormers in place (even though the instructions do not say to do this at this time … the roof needs to fit around the dormers so it is best to leave the dormers off until the roof has been clued down). Once glued it would’ve been very difficult to detach the dormers so I let them stay and crossed my fingers the roof would fit properly around the dormers.
Next will be the loading dock awning, same treatment as the front wall dormers for the tar-paper.
If you look closely at the previous two pic’s you’ll notice that the inside two support arms are mounted upside down. Testing fitting revealed this problem and it was easy to correct.
Initially I used the same Epoxy glue and PS Tarnished black but found the PS paint really changes the tactility(?) of the Epoxy, so I added Weldbond to assist in the glue-up (mostly along the underside edge). Notice special attention was needed to support the wall since the dormer flashing interferes with the wall laying flat on the work bench.
Next will be the wall glue up, and then onto the roof (... and will the roof fit over the dormers ...?)
‘til Next,
Paul
Finally the wall detailing has come to an end … now it’s time for the glue-up. First to go together is the Rear and Right walls:
Then it’s the Store Front and Left walls to go together:
The two sets of walls ready to be glued together:
The next pic’s are an improvised go-around (we need that 3D twirly thing MRH e-zine has):
OK, enough spinning, the walls fit perfectly together with the help of spacer card stock (provided) to keep all at right angles (they’re not glued in at this time).
That’s it for now, next will be gluing in the “view block” and then the spacer card stock.
‘til Next,
Paul
Wayne Woodland
Also, I know how time consuming it is to take all these pictures and document your build as you go along for all of us to enjoy.
So I'd just like to show my appreciation of your efforts and say 'thank you' for letting us all share in your great work, there are many members eagerly following and enjoying your build.
Karl.A
… about time I got back to build posting … took the summer off to lay by the pool and work on my tan (summers are short in the “great white north”) and it’s been a great summer thus far.
Thanks for the comments Wes and Wayne. Karl, always good to have followers, the picture taking slows things a bit (but it gives the glue/paint/stain a chance to dry, and for me to check things haven't gone south).
Now where was I … with the walls glued together the card-stock braces were installed (glued) with a view block in between (the braces really helped in keeping everything square during the glue-up.
Installation of the roof peak bracing:
Now for the roof … as you can see the dormers have already been installed (this was a mistake on my part, they should have been installed "after" the roof is on, as indicated in the instructions ….. uuuggh). Luckily though (and with Bretts’ precision alignment holes) the dormers were only off by about 1/16th of an inch (ie flush on one side of the dormer and about 1/8th inch gap on the other side. A bit of scrap wood filled in the gap. Later on, you’ll see that this mis-alignment of the dormers resulted in some messing around with the shingle spacing.
Gluing the left side wall dormer in place:
Roof in pace and glued:
.... now comes the shingling …
‘til Next,
Paul
Sounds like you're already working on the shingles. Hope to see an update soon.
Bill
Thanks Bill and Brett, the modeling been hit and miss all summer, to many good times pool side.
Now, before going up on the roof to shingle, there’s a lot of staining to do. The process is very similar to the strip wood staining (less the wire brush distressing and knot-holes). The shingle strips have been sprayed with Floquil Earth at the start of the build. Alcohol and pastels (in particular: Rembrandt 408.3, 408.9 and 704.9), soft and hard brushes. First sprinkle liberal amounts of 408.3 and 408.9 on the shingle strips and then dip soft brush in the alcohol and commence dabbing the strips. At first they appear quite dark (when they’re wet), but they’ll lighten up quite a bit after drying (and more so when brushed with the stiff brush). A few pic’s for visualisation:
As you can see, there are a lot of strips to stain …
The strips on the left have dried, the strips on the right are after stiff brushing (brings out the Floquill Earth in some places. You’ll need to brush the powder off the back side of the strips since this will interfere with sticking to the roof glue.
Now, up on the roof, the roof shingle cutting template is used to cut the first strips along the roof edge. This strip is stained scrap from the form (spine?) holding the shingles when they were laser cut. Slight adjustments were made to fit the strips since the dormers are slightly out of place (in relation to the template), my fault…
The first under-lay strip in place on the left side, followed by the first two rows of shingles… so far so good:
With two rows layed on the left, moved over to the right and layed 3 rows (incorrectly…). I was butting the first row along where the second row is suppose to butt. The first row should go directly over the starter strip, providing shingle over-hang).
... and the third row, after correcting the placement of the second row (it was not layed in the correct location, as you can see in the last photo (compared with the next). Luckily it’s pretty easy to move the shingles after initial placing (as long a you haven’t pressed down on them to hard). Pressing hard only comes after you’re certain the row is in place properly.
Everything in the right place on the left and right hand side:
Once I’d figured out the initial strips, the shingles between the dormers was much easier:
There’s a small piece of shingle that is placed on the left and right side of each dormer, these are shingles that will be under the dormer roof, but still visible (a subtle detail).
Pic’s of the (correctly…?) layed first 3 rows with the small pieces in place:
Next will be installing the dormer roofs and shinglin’ them.
‘til Next,
Paul
Wes, I think I have a lot of steps to go before finishing this one….
Decided to add a spot light on the right hand side of the work bench (to balance the lighting ... so I thought), worked ok but started to
notice annoying shadows while I worked. I had a length of track lighting available (8 – 50 watt halogens) and decided to
mount these above the work bench (and remove the spot light on the right), now there’s no shadows and the lighting is
great.
Back to the build(ing)…at this time the dormer roofs need to be attached, just a bit of sanding to bevel the edge that butts
up against the roof and glue.
Next is the flashing around the dormers, cut according to the template and fastened by removing the strips around the
dormer
The shingling resumed up the right side of the right dormer, a bit of trimming to achieve a straight line up the dormer
valley.
A piece of strip wood is used to finish off the end of the card stock dormer roof (similar to the main roof).
The shingles applied to the right dormer, still need to add the last row and cap with shingles, this is the last step after the
main roof is finished.
That’s it for now, next will be finishing the shingles around the dormers.
‘til Next,
Paul
That little piece of trimwood really finishes off the roof edge nice and tidy, a small thing but it really enhances the roofline and keeps things clean.
You gonna have this ready for the Expo ??.........
Karl.A
Thanks Karl, I’m shooting for FSMR Expo 2014….. Now, for shingling around the dormers, there’s a nice template provided for trimming the shingles, (would not have had to compensate on the trimming if I had glued the dormers on after the roof was in place.
Applying shingles to the dormer:
Shingling between the dormers (with adjustments):
Once past the dormers it was clear sailing to the cupola…making sure the gaps in the shingles are staggered.
Next will be building the dormer and installing on the roof, then back to shingling,
‘til Next,
Paul
Wayne Woodland