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Comments
Karl, I did have the top folded over the line. The paper longjohns were not as easy to manipulate as I had liked when shaping them around the line. If you look very close there are closepins on the line. I made them with brush bristle. Since they can't be seen, they are too small so I made splinters as you suggested.
http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/uploads/imageupload/086/4K3XMP7IAV6M.png
Did you do the weathered barn wood board with chalk? If so what number?
Thanks, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Dave, the boards were done with chalk and based on a comment that Karl made on chalk colors on the silvery gray wood thread.
I grained boards normally and added dark gray 704.3 (VERY lightly) and mixed in some 704.8. Wash it in...I'm a flooding mess on this also. Once dry I use a brass brush lightly. It helps re-define grain, smooth out any dark spots in the chalk and give a little bit of a grayish shine to boards. Then I give a light sanding with 220 grit paper. When I say light, I hold 2 boards and wrap the sandpaper (I use 3M ultra flexible) around the boards and pull the boards through twice up the top half and twice down the bottom half. Give a coat of IA and let dry. So all gray chalk. the only brown used is from the dirty alcohol I used from my usual bottle that never gets washed out. Other brown can come from sanding. You can choose to add drybrushing at this point but I did not on these walls.
The mess at the bottom is from enamel washes: Pacific dust, light slimy green, dark slimy green. I added 1 of the signs per the instructions and a peeling red board from another build for interest. The roof is made from the siding material.
The door handle is a piece of twine. Think it should have been a little smaller.
Thanks for your detailed reply. I was at our local art supply store, Arizona Art, yesterday to pick up a few additional Rembrandt chalks. Their display used to be quite large, about 3' by 3', but it has diminished in size and quantity by 50%. I like to support local businesses rather than shop on line so this might become an issue for me. Bummer. Maybe it will grow again once the University of Arizona and Pima Community College are back live. I can only hope.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
I installed a hanging lamp from the center rafter inside and started guiding the wire towards the conduit in the floor by hiding it on the backside of the rafters. This light will have the flicker on it. I made a hanging lamp for the side yard but it was hanging too low so I hid an LED inside the rafters. This will give light but the source will not be seen. There will also be an unseen light inside.
Added a fun detail on the wall exterior: presumably to lock the door. Didn't see the string until I snapped the photo.
What's better than a helping hand? 4 of them! Pic 3 shows the "octopus". Pic 4 is the final tucking away of wires underneath.
A brief video of what it looks like.
Great for me to see your wiring practices, processes... I really need to keep paying close attention on how you do these steps so thanks for the detailed pics.
I'm working on the placement of the tree. I want it behind and a bit to the left of the main structure to balance out the diorama, but I have to keep it away from the edge so the cover will fit.
Also got the corrugated roof installed and most of the interior details added.
Next on to the shingled roof. It will be partially removable just in case I ever need to get inside for maintenance.
See here the glue is drying. Next I'll sand the tops to expose more grain then blend the colors together and touch up the fresh breaks on the ends. There will be a stove pipe coming from the back of the structure with cables attached to the roof. Then of course a roof cap.
As mentioned earlier the roof is partially removable. Close up photos will help show if I made any gaps where the removable piece fits in.