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Comments
last time you posted an update I was going to say "man, I thought you said you were slow....." and here you are with another one.
Of course, you are right, once you get 'into' a build and then post it, and others encourage you, or even 're-direct' you.... we become keener to get back to the bench, and the next step.
As Ken says, having fellow, like minded modellers along for the ride here on the forum always makes for a great journey. Motivation and support is a great thing, which goes both ways, so thanks again for sharing this build with us.
The wall looks great, the initial 'blotchy' white has faded away with all the distractions of the varied siding, the doors, windows, etc. Fantastic complicated simple design by Brett, and nicely executed by you.
As for the shingles, I was already borderline on suggesting they were close to too large, personally I definitely wouldn't increase their size.
Lightening them could be done with a drybrushing, which I don't do very often, but on shingles I do find it enhances them.
If you haven't dry brushed before do LOTS of practice before you try it on this great wall, its easy to over do at first, and although it's a very simple technique, until you get the 'feel' for it you can go too far, or too heavy really quickly.
A practice section is a quick and easy thing to build and very beneficial.
Karl.A
what you're doing on it looks great, but i agree with the fellas about not going to bigger shingles and i agree with your thought about covering more of the 1 x 12.
I then cut the height of the shingles against the grain...a steel ruler as a guide and a new single edge blade worked fine to this point, however, I also cut up a second sheet which was slightly thicker (.018) and the steel ruler/single edge blade didn't work as well on the cross cuts (shingle height) as I couldn't hold enough pressure on the steel ruler to keep the blade from dragging the cedar strips out of position.....my NWSL Chopper worked better for cutting the .018 sheet shingles to length....all that being said, I ended up with a pile of cedar shingles to apply individually. Every 3rd or 4th shingle I trimmed down a tad both in width and height with for a little variance in size...
Applying the shingles is a tedious chore but I think it goes well with the board on board concept of modeling as the degree of variance can be achieved in both color and size.....
I hope this is somewhere near an understandable explanation in the use of real cedar sheets for a shingle roof application....also, not my original concept but rather a sharing of an article from Model Railroader November 1969 by Richard H. Christ and the instruction sheet which came with the cedar sheets by Dave Barron of Sierra Scale Models...if anyone is interested I will gladly email (or try posting here) the 2 page article from Model Railroader
Happy Shingling
Terry
Terry
The following is my opinnion, disregard at will...
A roof 'repair' is a frequently done thing, maybe to break up the monotony, maybe to add interest, maybe cos people think it looks 'cool'.
However they only seem to do them as though the roof repair was done yesterday, brand new and clean....
Look at the diorama as a whole.... its full of patches and different layers, but they all show age, that's what makes it all blend together so well, despite the differences, this was no accident.
If you do decide for a newer patch on the roof make it at least 6 months old, dulled down and aged slightly, instead of the usual 6 hours old, bright, and, it just stands out too much.
My thoughts
Karl.A
Terry
I'll have to look at these pics on a bigger screen than my phone, hopefully tomorrow, and I'll make some further comments then.
The shingles covering the 1x12 more than previously definitely looks much better.
These small things make a big difference overall.
Karl.A
Terry
the rotten corner looks like its going to turn out awesome, but the horizontal boards on the last pic look unnatural to my eye. the texture and coloring look great, but the edge cuts don't look right.
Love the color and texture on the 3rd board down on the right. It really has the old-weathered barn color to it.
Terry
Karl.A
'If all else fails, read the instruction"...so, I looked at Brett's manual and sure enough, he calls for a 6x6 corner trim piece to be used at the corners which in fact would leave the horizontal board ends exposed.....the plan now is to 'roughen' up the board ends, use the 6x6 as indicated and then make a determination as to further add the 1x8 corner trim.....
Terry
Terry
i would expect the ties to be well weathered and mostly buried.
Just be carefull on the uneven spacing and parallel side of things... originally they would have been pretty true, as usuall, don't over do it, make your marks and measurements for placement, then, slightly eyeball it and misalign as you go.... subtlty will show up well and add to the effect of imperfection without looking exaggerated.
My thoughts,
Karl.A
I love handlaying backwoods looking track. I'll post a couple photos here but only because you asked. I like a little bit of non-uniform spacing, but as Karl points out a little goes a long way with this. My process goes something like this:
Glue down the ties and let dry overnight. Give a heavy grain with a stiff brush. Sand lightly and brush with lighter brush to get rid of splinters. Color to suit. I have used chalks and plain IA. Both look good. Let dry. Lightly sand tops to give a sun-bleached look. Add dirt/ballast. I give a first layer of 50/50 sifted dirt/ballast. Glue down (I use matte medium). Let dry. Lay rail (paint while stuff is drying). Spike each tie. Sprinkle on very fine dirt to begin to cover up some of the ties...do this to taste. This too can be overdone. Add some cinder in top down the middle of the ties. Glue down. Add oil spill, etc. Add vegitation to taste. And have fun with this part of the build.
In these pics I have applied a heavy layer of oil only because of the nature of the diorama. No vegitation added yet. Note the 3rd tie from the right, far rail in the closeup has a rail joiner.
Terry