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Comments
The pace that you are building at is fantastic mate. And the quality is top notch too.
Always a pleasure to come back and admire your work.
Thanks for all the responses and encouragement.
When it comes to details, I sometimes don't know when to stop. I'll look at my work and think, "it's good from far, but far from good."
In the case of the legs on the rollway, my intent was to see if I could get this type of look:
It seemed like a good place to experiment since a lot of it will be hidden. I probably could have gotten the same effect with repeated coats of A/I.
Next up...back to the fun stuff: The Dynamite shack!
Mike Engler
Good to see you here on the forum. I was in Dubuque for the Thousand Lakes NMRA convention and was hoping to meet you. Maybe nex time...
Bill
Karl.A
Thanks, Ted
ummmm, I actually meant to say...
"OK now they look quite 'nice'..."
Perfect job!
Karl.A
JM
(jealous minion)
SUK minion
(student under Karl) minion
Great work and please, keep it coming on all of the 'enhancement' and building techniques you are using. They will come in handy for those of us who are going to be following in your footsteps.
KP--I was working on something tonight that you may want to try when you get to the boathouse. I wanted to create the look of rotten, mildew and mold covered wood at the bottoms of the walls. It's a boathouse and there'd probably be water in that area all the time. Here's what I came up with:
Hopefully, you can see the greenish colors at the very bottom. The first thing I did was hit the bottom with a few coats of light dilution A/I and let it dry. That gave me a dark base color. Then added a slurry of alcohol and different chalks (working pretty much in order of darkest to lightest) raw umber, olive green and some Bragdon "green sludge"--that's the sea foam color. There's also a touch of some yellow ochre, too. After dabbing on the paste of chalk, I touched it with a little more A/I and let it wick higher up the boards. I just played around like that and built up the colors-- almost like you would when you rust up a barrel or tank.
I'm heading out of town for the next week, but I'll be checking in to see what you think.
I think youve done it perfectly. The whole look of that wall is fantastic. Thanks for explaining your method.
Crap! No, I didn't but I will now. It's a really open structure so that makes sense.
Actually...that was a test to who would spot it first! Congratulations to young Brett from Plano, TX, our winner this morning!!!
Karl.A
Great effect with the green mildew. It's looking better with each post.
Glad to hear Brett won something, he is so fragile!!!
Jerry
The rest of the carboard was painted Roof Brown so I could leave a few bigger gaps in between the cedar shakes.
I wasn't happy with the way my ridgecap turned out on the Dynamite shack, so on the Boathouse I assembled the cap on the glass to get a nice straight line:
After the glue dried, I scored a centerline, clamped it down with some guidewood and bent the shingles over gently to give them a curve:
Then, I glued and clamped the cap on one side, waited for the glue to dry and repeated the process on the other side.
If you're interested, I used raw umber 408.5 & 408.7, a little gold ochre 231.3 and a couple spots of burnt umber 409.5, yellow ochre 227.5 and a little gray 704.7. Blend it with a little alcohol and here's how it turned out:
Oh yeah...I also drybrushed the shingles with some Reefer Gray, Aged Concrete and a light gray craft paint. That helped blend eveything a little more and make it look a little less dusty.
I finished the dock today, but nothing is attached yet. The deck boards still need to be gray-ed up to match the decay/mildew at the base of the structure.
I also wanted to comment on the moss around the base of the building and the subtle moss on some of the boards higher up on the structure. I'm not sure which catches my eye more, the roof or moss. Overall, outstanding.
Now, comes the sawdust conveyor. It's a fragile little structure, but very cool looking. You construct 9 bents, chute rails, floor and side walls. I used the template and 2 sided tape to line up the bents
Then attached the chute rails and started the bracing
The floor and sides were next followed by the belt and wall bracing. The converyor belt is made from strips of Tyvek (the moisture barrier matierial they wrap the exterior of houses with). When painted with thinned down Floquil Roof Brown, it really does look like leather. The roller at the top is a piece of rust colored styrene rod with 2 small pieces of brass wire. Did I mention small and fragile? That last little bent is crooked, but will be burried by sawdust.