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Comments
I see in the pictures there is a tiny bit of brass showing on the chains. Very fixable.
Much done, more to go.
I would like to thank Bill, Mike and Carl for the previous posts of their award winning sawmills. I would have hated to attempt this without them. Anyone contemplating building this kit must use them as a reference because as extensive as the instructions are there is nothing like a color picture of a completed assembly to give you confidence in what you are trying to accomplish.
Thank you for your offer Carl but I have convinced myself that the logs cut to size from similar perches like the ones in the picture above will be okay in the log pond. This sawmill will never be in a contest room and I suppose (hope!) my guests will not think they could have been better.
Moving on.
The castings were daunting because of the sheer volume of them. Eventually I made my way through most of them.
Here are some of the larger ones.
For whatever reason the pictures seem to enhance the orange in the rust but to my eye they tend more toward a brown in person.
I realize most of you have a preference for black tools on the workbenches but it is not my preference. I like the look of the weathered silver tools.
Now that I have progressed this far the way everything fits together is clearer to me especially the belting for the various pulleys for the machines. That was scaring me. Not anymore.
The next big hurdle of course is the corrugated roof. Bill's advice from a long time ago when I started this kit is a big help. Thank you in advance.
I still need to cut the terrain foam for the trestles and the transfer table.
And a lot of other things.
Much done, more to go.
Ken, sorry I have not complimented you on the work you are doing on the new kit. I find it gives me a smile to see your work. I nod and say you can tell its a Ken Karns model. Your look, as always is pure Dr. Grunge. Keep it up.
Not the greatest pictures but its something.
Karl. A
Thew new mill is beginning to take shape.
Some of the castings are not in the right place yet.
Terry
George
Are the saw blades permenantly set? If not, consider taking them off and putting circular wear marks on the blade. Simply attach to dremel at slow speed and touch brush with appropriate paint to spinning blade.
Terry
I considered putting the circles on the saw blade long before I started to put the saw blades together. There is an old sawmill, water powered, near me called the Isaac Ludwig mill. They actually use the mill to cut wood. Here are a couple of pictures.
I think the circles are a good idea and the execution would not be difficult. I kept coming back to these pictures and decided not to add them. I will admit there is a slight ring around the outside but it is light.
The directions show that the wings fit inside the rafters of the new mill. In the instruction book the assembly looks like this.
The picture below clearly shows the truss tight against the saw filers floor.
The picture below shows the position of the wings inside the rafters. Boards most be glued on the cardboard which will make it slighty thicker.
I thought I did everything according to instructions on the old mill roof with the opening and the walls on the new mill but this is what it looks like.
The first two pictures show the wing walls outside the truss so if I move them inside the truss the gaps on each side will be that much bigger, like the ones in the third picture.
You can see in the last picture how far away the wing wall is from the old roof opening. I am asking advice from those who have built this mill before did you run into the same problem or did I trip myself up somewhere. The opening in the old roof is precisely the same as the instructions. I suppose what I need to do is to add boards to the old roof to close the gaps on each side. Should I break off the truss supports on the truss closest to the old mill and move them inside to make more room for the wing walls?
As I sit here and think about it maybe I should move the trusses away from the saw filers floor to leave a gap for the wall to fit into which would move the walls closer to the old roof opening. I could use beams running across the new mill to hold up the saw filers floor. But what will this extra distance do to the fit of the roof above it?
Terry
What I should have checked before I built it was the roof opening on the old roof compared to the new mill framed wall that I built when I started the kit. It would have been simple to do but I assumed everything in the drawings were correct but in this case they were not. The opening in the drawing was off by two boards per side on my model. Not a big deal really just an unexpected surprise.
The first three pictures are taken at an angle that will be impossible to see once the buildings are properly arranged on the layout. The pictures below represent what will be able to be seen.
Thanks for looking.
George
More of the interior of the new mill.
Added a few castings to make the interior a little more interesting.
Thanks for looking.
A breathtaking build. The coloring of the wood is great and the machinery on the mill floor couldn't be better. Just a fine exhibition of spectacular care taken to make each detail look real.
Really great to see such an open view of the detailed inside of this beauty. As a carpenter wanna-be I am in awe of the detail of the stairs and overall realism of this build.
I'm torn at this point as I can't wait to see the final views of the completed build and yet on the other hand I don't want to see it end.
Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ