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Comments
Terry
Here are the sorting platform lumber stacks.
The kit calls for large piles of saw dust inside the old mill and outside. I was worried about gluing down the large pile of saw dust so I made a base I could paint and not have to use so much glue to keep the whole pile together.
Maybe it is premature to post these pictures until I see the results but, in theory, it should work.
Thanks for looking.
Nothing ventured = nothing gained. Win, lose or draw we will all learn from your experiment. Where would civilization be if we didn't have tinkerers and risk takers.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Your sawdust piles will work just fine. Perhaps paint the green foam with a sawdust colored craft paint and immediately sprinkle on fine sawdust. Once everything dries, re-evaluate and (most likely) add additional layers of sawdust. Secure it with a 50/50 white glue and water mix. Keep going until the seams and voids from the foam substructure are no longer obvious.
I felt all of those stripes on this roof would not work. I went for a relatively new roof just starting to rust. Here are my results. The roof will be completed when the loft is connected to the old sawmill.
I would like to thank Bill for his encouragement for me to go in this direction. Its not the worst roof you have ever seen. I hope.
Thanks for looking.
I realize its finish is not everyone's "cup of tea" but it is what I was after.
By the way here is the saw dust shed. If you did not know it saw dust absolutely repels water. I coated the styrofoam with glue and sprinkled on the saw dust. Then I sprinkled more saw dust on top of that.
The two main buildings are glued down now and I will start scenicking the perimeter. I still need to saw the logs and finish the pond bottom.
Thanks for looking.
Saw dust pile turned out great!
The sawdust pile came out great, a very natural looking shape and finish overall.
Karl.A
Thank you for the question Bryan.As you can see in the pictures the corrugated is formed into the valley that kind of makes it the flashing.
I built up everything as far as I could to push the old roof and the new roof together last. If I did not like how the two roofs coming together looked I thought I could cut off the battens above the new roof line and complete the corrugated portion on top of the flat wooden roof that would be left. Once I started the assembly you see in the pictures I felt it looked okay. I would hate to try to add tar along the edge of the corrugated on top of the battens. I think it would be a negative sore thumb where, in the current roof, the connection between the two roofs just merits a glance and the eye moves on
I hope this helps.
I believe you colored your wood with paint stains and I colored mine with ink but, I would say, the results are very similar. I would not have the patience to stain all the wood that went into this kit with the newer pastel method. Not that it could not be done but it would be a lot of work.
Thanks for looking.
I am not there yet but I have a question about coloring the pond epoxy. I have two unopened bottles of Pollyscale Empire Green to color the pond with. I do not know if it twice as much as I need or half as much as I need. Can anyone offer a reference from their own experience as to the amount of color to add to each layer poured. I realize that I should use less as the pond rises but how much to start with? Two teaspoons per 8 ounces? One?
I left all the structures that reside in the pond loose so I could paint the epoxy on them at around 7/8 inch height to try to avoid the dreaded wicking (meniscus) that comes with the epoxy. I will also try to paint the bank at the same height. I assume I can paint this on clear and it will just blend in with the colored water?