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HO Scale O'Neills Fabrication Official Forum Build

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  • edited April 2016
    Doors look fantastic Ken, Love the missing board, the dirtied up windows just look so good.. and dirty.. and nasty, like they should.
    The backlit shots really show the precision of Bretts kits, just a perfect fit all around, that's one of the things that makes a SW kit such a pleasure to build, that and all the great new techniques you learn.
    Half open window is such a nice detail..... looking forward to more.

    Karl.A
  • Ken, i'm trying to see what the "real" color of the wall based on your pictures. That pics with the black backgrounds make the wall color darker and tge pic with the white/black backgrounds look different. I know its just the camera doing its thingy, but have you tried a grey or blue or green backgrounds? Or just outside. I suspect the colors are a lighter brown from what us posted. Is tgat true?
  • Thanks very much Karl, nice when folks notice the subtile, less obvious niceties of a SWSM build such as the perfect fit of the doors...Moving on to the addition and should have this underway enough for some pictures soon.

    Marty, not to concerned at this point with the "true" colors of that walls as any of the pics are very close. Goal here is to detail the construction process, fit, texture, and components. Every wall is going to be a bit different based on the builder and his/her use of the weathering and coloring materials. The pic below was taken outside and most accurately depicts the color tone...Kenimage
  • Got a call from home today at lunch. The box had arrived. That call made the afternoon at the office feel like four days! We're happy! Now thumbing through the manual. The paint set is awesome too.
  • Alan, there you go! You'll love this build. just take your time and don't hurry to catch up as you'll probably catch and pass me as I'm slow but steady...

    I received my paint set as well and look forward to detailing some castings very soon.

    Ken
  • Ken, sorry for the lack of comments since the EXPO. I've been moving and sick. I love your progress. Also, thanks for all the detailed descriptions. This is really going to help me when I tackle this bad boy. I also can't wait to dig into the new paints. Keep up the good work. Phil
  • Phil, do you mean sick of moving! I know what you meant...sorry you haven't been feeling good really hits you when you're trying to get stuff done.

    Having a blast with this build. The board on board over the clapboard siding is just ridiculously easy and such a nice look. You'll see soon as I complete the addition that gets this treatment...Ken
  • No worries Ken. I'm the slow and steady type too! I will be traveling Thursday through Saturday. I'm going to be doing a segment on Trainmaster's TV. Sunday will be the soonest I could do anything and I may not feel like it depending on how the travel sits with me. I'll probably take the manual with me for reading on the plane, and begin wood graining & staining next week. I'm content to let you remain comfortably ahead in case I have questions, or need these lovely examples you're giving us! I'll post my own pics on a different thread.
  • Finished up the Addition walls which are strip wood over clapboard siding. This method allows complete control over the board weathering and detail. Next up...the door and window for the addition.
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  • This is incredible. They way you are laying out this build really gives me more incentive to continue on building. I've just finished laying track and getting ready to finish my kits to install. Can't wait for Brett to release this in O scale. David C
  • Thanks David, this is an awesome kit Brett has designed here and I know the O Scale version is going to incredible...Ken
  • edited April 2016
    Will be finishing up the Addition which is a wonderful structure cantilevered out from the main building. First time utilizing stripwood over scribed clapboard siding. What an awesome look this gives. Quick picture of the gabled wall with the door and window installed. Not crazy about my finish on the door trim and may work on that a bit...more soon...ken...Kenimage
  • It looks great Ken and makes me think my window and door are too clean for this type of industry. I recall my days in the UK Motor manufacturing Industry, must make mine more dirty definitely thanks but i might miss out on the cracks.
  • Michael, that's the beauty of board-on-board, you can make yours however suits you. I love to model a bit on the weathered, dirty, dusty, grimy side of things. I like the look of my widow trim as the door trim seems a bit blotchy. Easily corrected if I choose to. Ken
  • Completed addition to the Main Building. I have some signage to put up yet and still thinking on that. Next will be the Loading Dock overhang, detail the Front Wall and then the Main Building walls can be assembled...Ken

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  • I really like the contrast between the horizontal and the vertical siding. Add the two different finishes (peeled white paint and a subtle brown stain), the skill of Ken Karns and the craftsmanship of Sierra West and you get a winning hand!

    Looking good, buddy!
  • I like the contrast as well. I went out last night and found Bluegrass Green at my local Michael's. Had to substitute for the Ivory though! I found something that will be close enough. Tonight I start graining & staining!
  • Thanks Bill and the contrast of methods and materials is one of the premier signatures of SWSM kits as you're well aware. The Addition is just that, a portion added later so the difference in siding design and treatment makes sense. I always strive to get the most out of Brett's kits as I can...so we're out to try and do it justice!

    Hey Alan, great to hear. See if you thought the same thing I did...Bluegrass Green out of the bottle I thought "how's that color going to work?" but it does, and weathers fantastic. I think I substituted the Ivory as well, but anything close to that will work great as Brett mentions. Keep us posted on your progress...Ken
  • Loading Dock Overhang is almost completed. The images show the roof covered only in tar paper at this point. More detailing with corrugated, well placed scrap wood, etc. This is to illustrate the weathering and streaking of the paper. Again, this is done to taste and a fair amount of the roof paper will be covered by the other details.

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  • Nice job on the roof. Just the right amount of weathering on this.

    Jerry
  • Thanks Jerry, Right, didn't want an overly weathered roof here on O'Neills main building. Grey chalk on a medium sized dry brush and tap the handle while holding the brush over the roof. This gives nice random spattering of chalk "blobs". Then take a small dry brush and streak the blobs down the roof. Beauty of this is, you can pick and choose which blobs to streak and then just blow off the rest and do it again until satisfied...Ken
  • Ken yet another really useful tip. I had been wondering how you did that roof, especially after looking at mine which is pristine, awaiting just the inspirational way forward.
    May I ask about the "faint white" lines along the lower edges of the tar-paper. Any advice there please?
    Michael
  • Ken It worked well when I brushed "up" so some grey chalk caught against the tar paper ridge. I also found some chalks I picked up in a Norway Art shop, I could not get fine enough for your technique. Thanks another method which I hope will stay in my memory banks.
  • "Hey Alan, great to hear. See if you thought the same thing I did...Bluegrass Green out of the bottle I thought "how's that color going to work?" but it does, and weathers fantastic. I think I substituted the Ivory as well, but anything close to that will work great as Brett mentions. Keep us posted on your progress...Ken"

    It is an unusual green, and I would have had some misgivings if I hadn't seen the pilot model and your work. It is not, however, the most vivid color I've ever put on a structure. Another manufacturer once recommended some spray dye commonly used for floral arrangements. That blue was almost electric. With a little weathering it did work though. A common piece of advice I give to others is: "Relax, it's just paint!" I guess I'll just follow that advice myself!

    I didn't get as much done as I'd hoped, but I did get the main building siding grained. Yard work & honeydo's got in the way! That went well though, and I had a nice little pile of fuzzys and no split boards when I got done. I'll post my progress over on the thread Mike Engler set up. He's right, I don't want to clutter this one. I will keep asking questions though and I have one: Did you thin the craft paint at all, or just use it straight from the bottle?
  • Michael, Right, the faint white lines are where the weathering chalks naturally built up giving it a nice weathered look I think. The chalk needs to be scraped very fine as you mentioned.

    Alan, anxious to see what you do with this build and sounds like you're making some progress. It's a great kit as you know and I'm having a ball working it up. I did thin the Bluegrass Green down just a bit and darkened it slightly...just my personal "seasoning".

    Here are a couple quick updates shots of the detailed front wall with the two castings Brett recommends finishing and installing before the walls go together.

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  • Those following can go the Bill's Deer Creek Mine forum build and see how he utilized the same technique I'm using on the roof where you sprinkle the chalk and drag it down the piece you're weathering. Gives a nice natural appearance and is super easy to do. Bill does a marvelous job on his Ore Bin casting with this...Ken
  • I got the knotholes and the staining done last night. My knotholes are not as prominent as yours though I used a similar tool. looks like we applied about the same or similar amount of them. Maybe they'll show up a little better after the ivory is applied. I was afraid to rock the scribe too much as I didn't want to split the boards. Some were applied just by poking the scribe into the boards. Did you accent them with AI?
  • Alan, most of my knotholes were made somewhat elongate rather than just a hole. I made the holes after the staining but before the paint and I did highlight with AI and chalk randomly...keep up the good work and have been watching for your postings on Mike's thread??...Ken
  • Thanks Ken another tip "after staining" for "simple" knotholes but do you do the toothpick knotholes before staining and as required later "'saw blade banding" before or after please?
  • OK that explains it! I did mine before staining. I'll do some after. The boards dried pretty light, so I did a second staining tonight. Pic tomorrow. They need to dry!
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