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Comments
Work continues on the main building. The attached warehouse is complete. Not much extra to add from the instructions though I did add some beams behind the metal doors for some support. See photo below, upper right. Like Grant, I had to salvage some scraps from the wood pile to complete the walls.
Here is the competed wall and doors.
The roof goes on much like the awnings on the main building. Here are some photos of the warehouse attached to the main structure. One LED was added to the interior of this section.
Excuse the simulated bird poop on the warehouse roof!
The Yardmaster office is next. The clapboard siding was fun to build and if you look closely, there are boards that are split, chipped and a few that have part of the board missing.
Roof is almost complete in these photos.
The office will have one gooseneck light on the gabled side and one LED inside. Once glued to the main structure, it's onto the items located on the roof.
Jeff
The office has been attached to the main building and the pitch and pine tar tank and platform were completed and glued to the warehouse roof. A small hole was drilled in the roof top accommodate the pipe.
Here is the structure thus far. First, a few close ups of the tank and platform...
...and the main building.
Several stacks are being prepared to glue onto the roofs. Then onward.
Jeff
Work continues with the docks.
Template C has the right, left and derrick docks and the sales porch, all done simultaneously. Here is some early progress.
The completed docks below. Instructions are very clear cut so no need to repeat. One variation - I decided to paint the skirting speckled white. I found that on many porches, this part was white. I'll probable make the railing white to match. This will be similar to the stairs and railing of Foss Landing.
Note that on the derrick dock, I made the height of the "barnacles" less as the dock went inland as the water level would be lower.
Now onto the main dock. Here is some preliminary work.
I have a question for the RR enthusiasts - for the rails that are on the dock, where should I terminate the deck planing - at the blue line or red one? I can't seem to find many photos of this online and the pic in other build logs are too low resolution.
Also, I bought one 36 inch length of track. For the side with the dock, instructions say to have only a few inches come off the end. What's the best method to join the track assuming I have to cut a 17 inch length into one that is, say 7 inches for the dock and 10 inches for the terrain?
As always, thanks for the kind comments and thanks in advance for any help on my questions.
amazing on all levels.
Thanks for sharing your progress with us, keep it up.
Jeff
Work continues on the main dock.
The knots in the boards were randomly placed after the boards were glued to the beams. When all the boards are down they will be given a wash with A/E to darken the knots. I decided to lay the planks to the red line. I put together a scale 40 foot flat car and the trucks run quite smoothly over the tacks with the wood placed so. I also like the look of the track "buried" in the deck. Here are a few photos.
And finally, the main building on the foundation beams and the deck. Some wood scraps were used beneath the foundation and the various platforms to get them all at the correct height.
I need to straighten the rod at the top of the cupola as it seems to be off in one axis. Also, I glued the stack with the round top to the roof on the opposite side of the roof as compared to the instructions (I noticed this after the glue was set).
jeff
Fishplates (or 'joint bars' in the US) are what actually hold two pieces of rail together.
Ken Karns has done this the best that I have seen on a couple of his HO dioramas, perhaps he could share a pic here of his HO track to show it, or a link to his thread.
Here is a shot of my track from one of my dioramas showing the joint bar between two pieces of rail. In my case I also used tie plates under the rail. To keep things simple I use a jewelers saw to cut a notch in the rail rather than cutting clear through. It keeps the rail in alignment. The joint bar or sometimes called rail bars I use are from detail associates. They are styrene and too thick. I run the joint bar over sandpaper with my finger (removes your finger prints with it) to thin down the back side to be more to scale.
Hope this helps. Rick