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Glue question for wood

Have been building Brett's kits now for a couple of years and have been using Elmer's Woodglue Max as suggested in the instruction Manuals. Have had good success most of the time.

I have noticed on other builds from other folks here, they are using Canopy Glue 560.

Which glue is preferred by you guys.

What are the plus's and minus's for these two glues
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Comments

  • I use Titebond translucent wood glue. It dries clear and is a strong glue. We put it in a syringe with a blunt needle. Put a pin in the needle to cap it. Works pretty good that way and is easy to administer.
    My wife loves using Eileen's Tacky glue. I like it too for many things but I don't use it on the wood. I did once and then I did a paint wash on the structure I was building and a lot of things fell off because the glue dissolved in the water. Learned my lesson there
  • Yeah, not a fan of tacky glue on wood.
    What I like about the woodglue max is its stainable and glue sets up fast,
    but still sticks to the wax paper no matter how little I use and have to remove the glue and re-stain those areas....a big pain in the butt!!
    Just tried the canopy glue....not happy and going to pass.
    Will checkout the Titebond translucent glue.

    Btw, working on the Deer Creek Ho build and having a big problem with glue after removing from wax paper from the templates...I will figure it out.

    Thanks Jim:)
  • I just use Elmers wood glue, nothings ever fell apart in 15 years.

    Use less glue and just at the top of the joint so it doesn't seep down to the waxpaper, a minimal amount of 'seepage' is still easily removed.
  • I use Gorilla wood glue applied with a toothpick.
  • Lots of different glues to use out there as is evident by this thread! Use whatever works best for you. I use the Elmers wood glue max as it's my favorite. That's a choice for sure. As far as glue getting under the wood and stuck on the wax paper, not much to do here except use less glue but at some point it might not be enough glue to hold the pieces together. I use double stick scotch tape instead of wax paper so maybe give that a try.
  • I use double stick tape as well. You'll likely have to re-stain some areas when you peel the part off of it, but it works well, and can be removed from the templates easily by rubbing it off with your fingers.
  • Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try
  • Newer kits (last ten years or so) have the double sided tape method outlined in the instructions. Works great, better than wax paper. Use multiple pieces of tape to hold the assembly to the template then pick the template up and roll it out from under after the glue has dried.
  • I also use double sided scotch tape. Been using it for years. I will make a copy of the template and use the copy to tape to. I also use tite bond glue. I like that it sets relatively fast, but not dry yet.
  • Brett and all, I am now trying the double sided tape approach and my Deer Creek Mine. I will keep you all posted if it works better than wax paper.
    Also, I have noticed on many of my builds "Glue Hates Stained Wood".
    The glue sometimes does not bond even after 24 or more hours.

    It takes a little more time, so I lightly sand off the Stained part on the wood before gluing. the bond between the two wood pieces seems to work better with bare wood connections.
  • sdrees, I do the same thing making a copy of the original templates so I can go back a re-do with another copy without messing up the originals with glue and other stuff.
  • stained with what?
  • Chalk
  • Karl, it appears that the chalk stain we all use does not like glue.
    Maybe my problem but again finding out glue, any glue, works better on bare wood to bond strongly together.
  • edited April 17
    Pappy said:

    Karl, it appears that the chalk stain we all use does not like glue.
    Maybe my problem but again finding out glue, any glue, works better on bare wood to bond strongly together.

    Chris,
    I have been using the Elmers Wood Glue MAX that Brett suggests, and have had no issues with adhesion. Board over board (pre-finished with chalk and alcohol) stick together just fine here.
    Only thing I can think of is the boards not completely dry perhaps??
  • I have literally glued 10s of thousands of chalk stained pieces of wood together, SW builds or scratch builds and have never had a problem with bonding.
  • Been using this method for 15 years, never had a problem or heard one reported!
  • Pappy-
    Are you letting the pieces dry after staining them? If they’re still wet or damp from alcohol, most of the glues suggested won’t work. The alcohol will act as a thinner on white glue.
  • As I stated earlier, it maybe a problem on my end....not sure
    I texture all my wood using a pipe cleaner and a osborn 75116 to show more wood texture. I then remove all the fishes using 0000 steel wool. Stain and let dry overnight.
    I then use a terry cloth to remove the residue. I do this method on all my builds.

    I will figure it. Thanks to all.

    The pic below is my stab at using Double Sided Tape on the Deer Creek Mine and using the Woodglue Max which is stainable...looking good so far. Well let dry over night.

    The shot glass to the left keeps me focused and hands steady and calm...Texas Titto's..lol :smiley:


    Glue-1

    Thanks again guys for all your great builds and support.
  • Pappy said:


    I texture all my wood using a pipe cleaner and a osborn 75116 to show more wood texture.

    Two of my favorite weapons in the war against strip wood... haha

    Bents are looking great, nice and square, good colour too.
  • Pappy, I sure hope you get the glue deal figured out. By looking at the picture above, you’ve tried almost every adhesive known to man or modeler. I’m running out of suggestions! JB Weld or an arc welder are the last two on my list, brother!!
    LOL

    Good luck and keep us posted!
  • Thanks guys. Again it may be a user error (ME)...lol.
    Still learning and guess we all will keep learning with people like you and others to keep this hobby going!
    I will remove the Bents from Tape tomorrow and keep you posted.
  • Can't go wrong with Titto's sir!!
  • Ok guys, I am sold on the tape idea rather than wax paper.
    As you can see below, I rolled off the tape with template and very little glue residue was left behind.
    Thanks again for the tip!!

    Glue-2
  • There you go!
    Very nice work. If you can keep the ooze down to an absolute minimum (and carefully pick off the excess when dry) you can avoid having to go back and restrain any areas.
  • Thanks Bill, I still may have to touch-up a few areas where the glue was...no big deal.
    Love your deer creek build which I am following as we speak.
    Keep up your great work Bill,

    Chris
  • Pappy, having built the mine, I know how hard and critical it is to get the bents straight and square. You did a fantastic job in doing this. Looks really good. Phil
  • Thanks Phil, I finding out the Glue i am using may be old and not sticking after 48 hours of drying. I glued the bents with Elmers Woodglue Max, let dry and found if I barely hit a glued post or what ever after curing for 24-48 hours it snaps off. I think the problem is the glue likes bare wood not stained wood as I stated earlier. Scratching my head on this one. May try Titebond..
    I was working on the Chutes supports and other bin supports details and wood in other areas were snapping off. Was about to start over with another glue. Very frustrating but will figure this glue crap out
  • Pappy what are you doing ?
    Wood glue is dry and cured and bonded in 10 minutes for the small amount we use.

    I’m confused about the whole 24 - 48 hrs comments.

    I put a blob on my glass desk, about 1/2 diameter, I use a tooth pick to apply it to the joints when I am building framing.
    Or, adding siding.

    After about 10 mins the blob is dried up and unusable so I either add new glue or make a new blob.

    After 15 or so minutes the glue is fully dry and the wall is solid.





  • Chris, please give me a call so we can sort out what is going on.
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