For the round signs, I use a very sharp pair of Fiskar scissors. First, with an a #11 X-Acto blade I cut the sign out from the sheet in a square. This gives me something to hold while I cut. I then cu
I think Mountaingoat is on the right track. I found some pics on Railroad Line but no information on how it was made. It looks like he used square brass tubing for a handle. A stack of #11 blades so
My thoughts about the "#11 Exacto blade" tool. I wonder if the grain lines would be really fine and tend to disappear after we treated the scale lumber wit A & I due to minor swelling.
I finally found what you are looking for. It is known as the wood wrecker. It is made with either 5 or 6 #11 Exacto blades press fit into the end of a K&S 3/32 X 3/8 brass tube. It is shown in a worki
somewhere on the forum, buried mid thread, someone describes making a scratching tool for detailing wood out of used #11 blades and a piece of tubing. if anyone remembers it and knows where it is, pl
somewhere on this forum someone explained how to utilize old #11 blades by inserting them into a piece of tubing and making a scratching tool out of it, and i have a bunch of used #11 blades and would
Thanks Robert...right you are my friend, that's how I do it as well. I use thin tissue paper though not Kleenex type as that's too fargile for how I work it, more like the kind used for gift wrapping
like old heavy weathered paint. I then take my #11 blade a pick and scrape off the paint as I wish. More paint removed the more weathered it appears. Here's an almost finished wall utilizing this
To get more rotten look, I just pick and remove small amounts of wood at the edges and areas of interest with my #11 blade. Then the areas I want to look more deteriorated I go at it with browns and
Tom, I switched over to #17 and #18 chisel blades, you'll see these recommended in my newer manuals. #11's work great, you just need to be careful not to tear the wood, use light passes and a new blad
picked and rounded the edge of the hole with my #11 blade. I then took a bigger pipe and placed it over the smaller hole and rocked it back and forth to make round indentations around the small hole
bricks. The left 4.5 bricks I used my #11 blade and defined each brick. Can you see this difference in a close up?...sure...could you tell in the finished model with just looking?...probably not.
For the two windows and door I first made sure I had windows that would fit the opening once I created it. I then took a new #11 blade and cut the outline as deep as I could then switched to a chisel
Hi Chris, I used very small dabs of epoxy on the ties every 3rd or 4th tie or so. Once the epoxy was dry but not cured I used my #11 blade to clean up any the squished out...tedious work of course in