Request Critique on My Shipyard Build

JohnM

I still have not dug as far into the photography info as necessary.

A few more baby steps today. Stopping early to meet a ham radio friend at the Wooly Toad: if you follow this url, give it a few seconds to let the pictures roll through.
http://www.okigolf.com/Courses/NewCastle/Pages/Woolytoad.aspx

However, here at the shipyard, the second dozen building blocks were prepped and painted. I lost track this morning (my apologies please) of a message from one of you inquiring about the source. It is my son-in-law, who works for a steel fabricator.



Additional work was done on the dormers:





Whoops, I need to straighten out the right sill!



I got this put together without breaking the door . . . .



I think a little chalk may be in order to tone down the nails, but don't want to do that while I am still handling the components.

Other than my crooked window sill, what else am I missing?

Now off to bruise a few grapes and talk about a software applications convention that I missed . . . .



Respectfully,
John

KKarns

Hi John, appears you have your priorities in order! you have the perfect recipe for fine scale modeling...crooked window sill looks good, you mean you didn't do that on purpose! keep up the good work..Ken

Ojaste

Hi John,

Looking very good indeed. I would suggest that you take your new camera and hunt out and photograph as many old wooden building as you can find. The look at those pictures with a critical eye. You will be amazed at what you see and took for granted. Tones in wood at various stages of aging, where paint peels, where rust collects and how water stains turn into black mould. Then there is the fading of paint of different sides of a structure, the number of missing boards, slipping window sills and how junk is organized and left to rust. It will be an enlightening experience.

The best part is then you have a library of prototype photos to refer to when you build a structure. (I have 1000's collected over the past 15 years.)

Go explore and it will be eye-opening.

Marty

MikeM

Someone needs to market weights like these...not that that will improve my modeling to the level I see on this website...

JohnM

Yes Ken, life is grand . . . . The Wooly Toad is in view of my house and is an incredible resource. People use the main restaurant & bar and seem to have no idea what is hidden away upstairs. The internet speed over there runs around 25 Mb down, so it is a great place to read online or play computer.

Marty, I continue to be in awe of your build, your layout, etc. . . I so much appreciate you looking in and need the expertise of each and everyone here to catch any errors before I dig myself into a hole that is hard to get out of!

Mike, I felt the same way you do when I saw Paul's blocks - they made me yearn. I researched copper and found it doable with internet sources, then realized my son - in - law is in the steel business so I went in that direction. I have two dozen blocks now and think it will be adequate.

I don't have too much to proffer for view today - one would never guess it took me all afternoon to put hinges on the big doors and install the windows.

As you look at the door hinges, would someone please comment on the suitability of their adhesive. I pressed very firmly when I got them in position. Will they remain in place? I can't imagine how I could add additional adhesive without it being visible - maybe standing the doors on edge and adding either epoxy or super glue. Please comment.



I have been taking pictures holding the camera in my hand. Today's photos are with a new tripod. I believe the improvement is as you all know it would be. I feel like the pictures are now sharp.





I am on page 21 of the manual now with no omitted steps. It looks like tomorrow will add the big doors then on to the SHIPYARD stencil.Tonight I am going to review all the build logs.

Ojaste

John, for those hinges, i actually removed the sticky paper and put very small dab of glue on them. The sticky stuff made the hinges look like they were floating above the door.

Marty,

Retirement brings shakey hands and the need for the tripod. Good choice and nice pics.

ironmountainlumber

Hi John,
The pictures look outstanding. The doors, windows, and wood colors are well done. Great job. The hinges will stay in place as long as you don't start pulling them off and adjusting them. The more you manipulate them the less sticky they become. If you get any chalk on the adhesive from your fingers or workbench they will also become less sticky. I have a lot of experience with messing up door knobs on the essentials and line side storage shed and losing the adhesive. Unfortunately, I have a bad habit of fiddling with stuff, just a little to the left or right.... and now they are stuck to my finger or have fallen off. If they are coming off I add a very small amount of glue to the back to secure them and this seems to work well. My suggestion is if they look good and I humbly think they do, then don't mess with them.

Bye the way, I originally saw the wine on your first post and took the suggestion and had a glass of Moscato while painting castings last week. Wine, model building and apple computers a great combination.

Cheers!
Jim

JohnM

Thanks Marty & Jim.

At the moment they are in place and I'm loath to touch them. I'll be careful going forward.
I thought about a dab of glue when I was putting them in place but decided against it.

John

JohnM

Thanks Marty & Jim.

At the moment they are in place and I'm loath to touch them. I'll be careful going forward.
I thought about a dab of glue when I was putting them in place but decided against it.

John

KKarns

Hi John, in my opinion, these types of details are well worth doing but not worth worrying about if you don't. I agree with Jim's method of putting just a very small amount of glue on the back with the tip of a tooth pick or pin and hold the part with fine tipped forceps and apply. I would use Elmers white glue not the wood glue as the very small amount of the wood glue may dry before you get the part where it goes. The white glue dries a bit slower. You can also thin the white glue down a bit with water and put a small smear of glue, not a drop, so when you press down the part it doesn't smush out the glue too much.

Your last pictures look really nice. Don't get too heavy handed with the nail holes as they should be there in most cases but subtile. They should not be the first thing your eye sees when you look at a wall. Your wood coloring and texture look really nice, well done.

Ken

JohnM

Great advice Ken - what I need. The differences between the two types of wood glue would never occur to me.

Yes, I concur that my nails are too prominent. I am hoping and suspect I can tame them with 408.7 .

admin

The adhesive I use is archival quality - acid and lignin free. It will never yellow or chemically alter the materials surrounding it. It is designed to be a bit "squishy" at first so you can adjust the position of the object before any pressure is applied to the adhesive. Once pressed into place it will not move. I have models 15+ years old without any "wandering" parts. You can certainly add a drop of glue if you are concerned, no harm. Ken's advice is good however, don't worry about it, your doors look fantastic!

Overall looking good John, very well done! The peeling paint on the windows and nail holes in the siding appear to be a bit heavy for my taste. Maybe the camera is making them stronger than they appear to the naked eye. Common situation. Looks like you are making steady progress and will have a wonderful diorama when completed. Keep at it and thanks for posting!

MikeM

Do you use an archival adhesive only with wood and paper or do you use it to assemble items using resin or metal parts as well? Any recommendation to brand or what to use as a search argument in Google?

admin

It's not for resin/metal, etc... Not a consumer product.

JohnM

Thank you Brett - very much! I am loving the building, the advice and the camaraderie. I am in awe of the resident expertise . . . Thank you over and over to each who offer advice.

Hopefully I can tame my nail holes and the white with some chalk? I'm thinking of waiting until I'm ready to stand the walls up and the dormers, and assorted parts are added. I'm trying to be subtle but see my inexperience is thwarting my effort .

I am in Montana this week on a Coast Guard project earning some play money for these adventures in dioramas. Presently busily engaged in "office work". Do you notice anything familiar on the computer screen?

Respectfully,
John
Polson, MT

Ojaste

John, consider this.... Every nail I have seen in older buildings are rusty and what you see is not the black nail but the rust colour. This is often accompanied with rust streaks. A bit difficult to accomplish.

Marty

Karl.A

While I agree with Marty and his observations, at this point the LAST thing I would do on your walls now is add rust streaks. I realize Marty did not actually suggest you doing this to your wall.

Drawing even more attention to the nails with rust streaks would be a bad idea in my opinion. Simply tone them down with the wall colour, close them up if you can and blend them in.

Practice this on some scrap wood before touching the real walls and show us what you come up with on the scraps first would be my suggestion.

Karl.A

Ojaste

Agreed.

captsully18

John, I think you are doing very fine work. I'm not good enough to offer any advice or suggestions. I've been following along to pick up stuff from the masters. I've got this model on my shelf. I only have the big building. A friend bought the kit and only wanted the ship and surrounding details. He dang near gave me the rest. Perhaps I will get started after I get Scotia finished. Keep up your good work.

Dave

JohnM

OK, Marty, Karl & Dave - will do when I get back next week.

Respectfully,
John

ironmountainlumber

I am looking forward to seeing more John. This will be a fantastic diorama when completed.
Keep up the great work.
Jim

JohnM

OK folks, I was back east (Montana) for a week but still managed to check in every night and see what you all were up to.

As a former New Englander, I love the enormity of west. One town I get to is in a county with almost twice as many square miles as the whole state of Rhode Island and there is only one traffic light in the entire county! Springtime in the mountains is always pretty.



Today ended up being a short work day in The Shipyard but I finally reached the fabled task of painting SHIPYARD. I lightly taped the stencil in place then weighted it to keep the important edges against the planks.



Brett's manual, Paul and Marty have stressed the importance of not overdoing the paint quantity. For the first time in the build, I think I may have under done it! If any of you have time, I'd really appreciate opinions if I need to add a whisker more paint.



As per Brett's manual and Marty's suggestions for version 2.0 of The Shipyard, I installed the large door frames but will deal with the doors much later - I have an idea to expound on one of Marty's suggestions.





Lastly, I wish to inquire about glue. I have two speeds of epoxy and super glue - none of which I have used but hold against a possible future requirement.

I am using TiteBond III for everyday work - I believe several of you do so. It has been mentioned someplace that white glue was tasked with a job that wanted a slower setting time than TiteBond - as well as being what you appear to universally dilute with water for soil and "trash" attachment. Is this the correct product?



Comments on my paint scarcity and glue would be very much appreciated.

Respectfully,
John

Ojaste

John, welcome back.

Leave the sign as is. Once you have removed the stencil it a challenge to get it back in place. As for glue...i've used the white all my life glue oak strips together. I must of used 200 gallons or more during my stair builder days. It does take time to dry/cure and when it does it holds! However, it is not stainable most of the time. I'm an inpatient modeller and like my glue to grab and stick with only a minute or two for adjustments, the titebond allows that. The white glue is reserved for scenery and things I can clamp to hold inplace. I don't even use it for gluing oak anymore.

I hope this helps.

Marty

MikeM

If you ever get over to Northgate (North Seattle) there is a Rockler store that carries a variety of wood glues. I've never had an opportunity to use this particular one but it sounds interesting: http://www.rockler.com/titebond174-and-titebond174-ii-extend-wood-glues-titebond-ii-extend-wood-glue They also have other glues, including CAs, primarily intended for wood but presumably usable for other things.

JohnM

Thanks Mike & Marty. It appears that you both are confirming I have the correct interpretation of which glue to use for what. Mike, thanks for the heads up on Rockler.

I didn't like the look of my SHIPYARD paint work - it was bothering me, so I scrubbed it clean with alcohol, reapplied some 408.3 to hide the residue white shadow and tried again - after additional practice on the opposite side.

This looks reasonable to me if it doesn't give anyone else heart burn . . . the darker appearance is my lighting. If necessary, after it is completely dry, I think I could lighten it with white chalk or additional brushing



Respectfully,
John

Karl.A

It looks perfect. Aged and fading, it definately looks like it has been there a while and is part of the wall, nice redo!!

Karl.A

LSNRwyAl

I agree with Karl. The sign looks great.

ironmountainlumber

Hi John,
The re do of the shipyard sign is very well done. Great job.
Jim

Ojaste

John,

Are you going to match/blend the colour on the other walls to this one?

\Marty

JohnM

Thanks Karl & Jim.

The thing I like about posting is the careful scrutiny - thats what I need - so yes Marty, I need to make them all comparable. I may try to lighten this new one a bit and darken the others. I'm afraid of screwing this one up though - I think I like it. I can do to the others what I did to this one - some 408.3.

Thanks all for comments.

Respectfully,
John