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Woodcutter - O Scale - removable roof

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Comments

  • Thanks Wes. Just finishing oil tank and first attempt at dirt laying and will post.
  • Nice work on those castings James.... REALLY nice......

    Karl.A
  • took day off and finished tank finally. I guess I'm going to have to cut the dio base soon. Started the Line side Shed too.
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  • thanks for comments BTW
  • Lineside shed emerging next to six pole sled - slowly...imageimage
  • James, catchin up on your great build here. Love the oil tank...in fact I think I'm going to start collecting all of Brett's oil tank castings I can find and include at least one in every diorama I build! they're fantastic and add so much to a scene. Dirt looks great, need to get your dio base, as you mentioned, so we can see it all laid out...
  • Thanks -! Yes I have the base- one issue is I will have to build a plexiglass cover to keep little fingers off of it (as well as big fingers - my wife dropped something on the oil tank the other day). I don't have a table saw so I'd have to use a friend's or have one made (there are a couple local building building companies)...
  • I meant model building companies... Architectural that is.
  • Hi James,
    Fantastic modeling. I really like the line side shed and the rusting on the roof you have done. The woodcutters shack and the castings are excellent. I was wondering did you color the shingles on the wood cutters shack? Are the corrugated roofing panels on the line side shed done with chalk or sophisticated finishes?
    Jim
  • Hi Jim
    Thanks- woodcutters roof: I use a soaking technique which I decided on after many experiments, the base formula is simply a mix of transparent sepia ink and alcohol - about 1:20 I think - I can check. To this one can add any other ink mixes (I add some "Mike Chambers" mixes to these, which I found too grey on their own). Distress the wood, then soak for as long as you want, then a bit of post soaking distressing. I use the Eurotool -'great product. Ends done with fingernail ( the best tool for ends!). I also brush on some Weather It in some case. The corrugated siding is a mix of etchant (boy that was a dramatic process!) and Jax aluminum blackener with some sophisticates finishes brushed on a few pieces (thinned down a bit). Unfinished yet of course so will fine tune some pieces maybe - but leaving well enough alone is often the best advice ...
  • I should clarify I mean that I used a mix of some Pieces done with etchant and some pieces done with the blackener- NOT mixing the two chemicals together! God knows what would happen if actually mixed together. BTW both products eat away at the aluminum (which is good) but the Jax product is just like using a pewter blackener and cleans with water. Etchant, not so much ,,,,
    The etchant effect is better I think but one must balance the hazards if Etchant with the ease of the blackener.
  • Nice work James, I know what you mean with the etchant being "a dramatic process!" once it warms up it has a time clock of its own and you gotta move fast. I like to try different techniques now adays rather than etchant same as the floquil paints still trying different replacements but really in the long run nothing like etchant and floquil.
    Lynn
  • took remaining vacation time today and hoped to get a fair bit done - but it snowed - in Vancouver! It never snows here! Anything over 2 cm is called "Snowmaggedon". So, a couple errands took way longer than planned. In any event, did a bit more on Lineside shed, including a test firing of a light. This is a nano LED by Evans Design, pre-wired with micro wires (the hood isn't attached yet so some light is getting out). Hooked to a 3 volt DC power source (visible in background). Easy as it gets. Wires will go through a hole in the floor. I threaded the wires through a 1/16th pipe I think but could have squeezed them into something narrower. The only thing about the really small LEDs is that they are flat- you can see that the light is shining more on the wall than would be the case with a circular bulb. But I doiubt this is really that noticeable in the end...

    image
  • FINALLY got around to starting the base. I came across a pile of discarded cork tiles and thought they'd be great to set up some modest topography on a small scene. image
    The base is the upper board. Of course the "terraces" would be blended in to create more natural slope. The temptation always is, I'm sure. to load up too much into a scene or have to many focal points. On the left side I was thinking of adding a small coaling yard (I've laid out some of the bits) but could also just leave as landscaping and a general yard off of the line shed. Need to check rail clearances too. Nothing glued down yet of course.
  • James, looks great! its shaping up to be a killer diorama. I know just what you mean regarding the temptation to try and do too much. I'm experiencing that with Duluth right now. I think you should do what feels right to you and what you enjoy creating. I love varied topography like your doing here. It gives the scene character and uniqueness. Wait till you see all the crap I stuffed into the Duluth dio!...keep goin...Ken
  • I like what you are doing here.
  • Thanks for comments - Ken, let's get stuffing!
  • The structures all look great James, very nice builds. I never glue anything down until I have all the major parts laid out, inc track so I can get a real good feel for things and see if there is anything I would change. Much easier to do it at that point. I also generally layout a lot of the larger details to see how they fill up space and make sure I have enough room.

    Keep us up to date.

    Karl.A
  • James, this is breath taking. What will you use on the cork? I like the lighting, which I want to do myself. I do not share your critique of the light pattern - it looks great to me.
    Respectfully,
    John
  • Thanks John. Just catching up here. I did do a bit more on the base:
    image
    The covering is 'Celluclay' (a paper mache product readily available), mixed with some brown water based paint and some white glue and some windex. The brown (burnt umber) is NOT the final ground colour of course. It's just to avoid white showing through in the case of nicks etc. This base will be covered with "Karl's Mix" soil etc.

    When I spread the stuff on the "plateaus" were not visible but now that the base has dried the front one shows up, but it will probably be ok in the end. The rocks will be blended in and dusted the soil colour if they look too different presumably. I've show one tie re: rail location.
  • And thanks Karl… makes sense.
  • Added ties…
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  • It's back baby! I had shelved this duo (literally) because I think I was suffering from a bout of "Gludonitis"- fear of gluing builds down on the base. So yesterday I finally said screw it and mixed up a batch of epoxy and glued the suckers down. I then started the dirt - "Karl's Mix" (Polyblend). It's still wet in this photo which is why there are white splotches. I realize I was a bit too ambitious and got dirt on the ties so I'll have to scrap/ sand this off.
    image
  • Great looking start James. I always get scared when its tim to glue structures down too. That's why I have shelves full of structures and only a few real dioramas. Once the step is taken you wonder what all the worrying was about, but it's still a big step.

    I haven't found a simple way to avoid dirt on the ties yet, it always happens. A single edge blade to scrape it off while wet and then again when dry and a little recolouring of the tie tops is usually the way I go.

    Getting dirt down really makes a difference to the look and I look forward to your further posts now that the hurdle is overcome, it looks sweet already. Nice job.

    Karl.A
  • Yeah it feels good- kind of liberating. It's not about just the buildings anymore but rather the whole scene.
  • more base "dirt". I tried to be more careful with getting it on the tracks - the Polyblend really doesn't come off easily once it has dried.
    imageimage
  • sorry - posted twice. It's the same photo :)
  • Looking good James, now the scenery and detailing fun can begin !!

    Best to scrape off as much as possible while wet I have found, then a little touch up colouring where needed.

    Karl.A
  • thanks Karl- yeah - this time I kept a damp cloth on hand.

    Finished up some of the dirt and glued down the major elements. One thing I leaned is that while "floaters" don't look good- be careful not to pile up too much direct against a detail - equally unrealistic. I have to pull some "dirt" away from some of these….

    imageimage

    the Polyblend, being grout basically, sticks to things. As one can see the Lineside shed looked like it got splattered with mud. I'll have to try and brush that out a bit….
  • ok so I don't know why that photo posted twice again. I'm sure it's something I'm doing...
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