Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 924 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 54 New Member Introductions
- 112 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 166 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 117 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 362 Builds
- 131 HO Scale Builds
- 155 O Scale Builds
- 59 Finished SW Build Pics
- 12 Miscellaneous Builds
- 187 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 36 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 38 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Comments
For the boards, I used a diluted wash of Floquil Grime and Thinner. Dipped a brush in the Floquil and dabbed it on my glass then into thinner and back on the glass and mixed it with the grime to get a thinned down Grime. Then I brushed the wood on all sides with a loaded brush of the wash and set aside to dry. Of course the wood was previously brush with a brass brush back and forth with the grain. This is exactly by Brett's instructions in the manual. The big variable comes next with how much you brush the wood AFTER the Grime wash is dry. I only let the wood get dry to the touch before brushing, maybe only 15-20 minutes. I brushed until I got the color I liked. Then I very lightly dry brushed the wood with a bit of Floquil Box Car Red, again exactly per Brett's instruction. I further stress the wood by taking my #11 knife blade and made various cuts along the boards. I then took a small brush and lightly dabbed some raw umber chalk (408.3) on the freshly exposed wood to age it. I did the same thing to the bottoms of all the boards to give them that aged look where they soaked up water, dirt, mud, etc. Just a little though.
The knotholes were done per Brett's instructions with minor Ken thrown in. I poked a hole in a board with a larger sized pin. I then pushed the tip of a tooth pick through the hole, not very far as you don't want a very big knot for HO Scale, until it was tight (no glue) and then snipped it off with some fine snips. Now, make sure you snip the exposed tooth pick off so the "smush" is running the same direction as the long run of the board or with the grain. When you snip the wood, it compresses it a bit making it slightly oblong. This should run with the grain. I then took my #11 blade and lightly carved out a larger "smush" shape simulating how the wood grain would flow around the knot hole. I actually removed a very thin layer of wood in this shape. I then dabbed some 408.3 chalk on the knot hole and carved area aging and accentuating the knot hole. If the knot hole sticks out too far just simply push it in as far as you like since there was no glue used just the friction of the tooth pick in a smaller hole.
One important point for me that I have not seen mentioned is the use of GOOD magnification and lighting for this work. I actually use a microscope! Yup, a real good quality stereo microscope mounted on a boom arm. Hope that helps and great "talkin" with you.
Wow ! Thank you for the tutorial. I am also hooked on Brett's Kits. Brett's instructions and overal design are superb. I am really trying to improve my modeling skills. There are so many fantastic modelers on the forum. I feel very fortunate everyone is kind and willing to share their knowledge to help others who have the same desire to bring Brett's kits to life.
Thanks again for the help! Looking foward to your next post.
Jim
I tore the paper with a straight edge rather than cutting with scissors to give it a more ragged edge....too much? I glued the edge down here and there to give it a undulating apperance, may need to do more of that. Kind of light on the streaking? Things that'll keep a person up at night...-K
Roof looks great !!
Karl.A
Excellent job on the roof and the rafters. I also like the torn edges of the roof. It is not overdone and fits the overall aged look of the building. I can't wait till I see what you do with the lineside shed as well. Are you going to finish the other kit and put both together in a diorama?
Jim
Jim, Roof rafters were tricky as Brett commented in the manual, particularly in HO Scale! I did all the glueing under the scope. As my comment to Bryan indicated, the roof was like...take a deep breath and have at it. I figured with the size paper I had I could tear it once or twice and if I didn't like it could scissor cut the rest and have enough to finish it.
My idea on the "Sheds" was to combine the Tool Shed and Lineside, as they are very different in style and coloring and would compliment each other really nice, and place them together in a diorama on my layout. I think adding a nicely weathered old truck like a flat bed or old Model-T type pick-up would be nice. You know...I don't know about you but Brett's kits are so awesome I find myself planning my layout around his kits rather than the other way around! -Ken
Jim
Ken
...I'll be featuring the Lineside Shed next...Ken
The third last picture has got to be my favourite. I love the way the bottom of the deck
posts are a bit darker where moisture would wick up.
Great stuff.
The rigging shed is done. The roof is built in 2 parts and then attached. The laser cut stud walls make it easy to attach individual boards like your build . It was the quickest of the kits in the Logging Essentials. I am trying to build lights from Ngineering so I can light up this building , the fuel depot and others. Hopefully this week if I get in gear.
I think the deck looks good and might be better yet if the end cuts have color added and a dirty trail from people walking is added. I think the deck seems a shade too light compared to the building. I hope this helps.
Jim
I used Higgins Ink straight on the very bottoms then a wet brush of pra was dabbed over the ink then followed by some chalk (408.9) Didn't want quite the harsh effect as if it were posts in water.
Hey Jim, You've got a good eye! I will be working to correct just the issues you pointed out. Darken up the platform decking just a bit overall then a faint traffic path and then dirty up the board ends a bit. Great...you'll have to let me see your track plan if you don't mind as mine is 8 x 13 so we're right on. LIghted buildings would be really nice....pictures, pictures??
Ken
Such a magnificent job on the shed but, now (to me) you seem to be over anxious and over enthusiastic about the deck. This area could have more impact on the build than the roof.
Take some well meant advice and just pause for a short while.... I'll talk to you tomorrow.
Karl.A
Ken
As I said earlier these pictures would pass for O scale all day long,
especially the structure.
I'm really looking forward to what you do on the line side build,
judging from this it should be a real gem !
Karl.A
Bryan....Dusty and crusty....I like that!