O Scale Mill Engine & Boiler House

LSNRwyAl

Made doors from dimensional lumber weathered with A/I before cut/glue/paint. Windows from dimension lumber and acetate. In the shop window, made a metal plate and hole for the drive shaft from the SWS mill engine kit 300 from polystyrene and nut/bolt/washers.










The water tank and sleigh was built as per the instructions of SWS kit 300. The tank still needs some weathering.

LSNRwyAl

...this is how it is starting to look like. A long process with many stops, changes and restarts.

The mill engine footing casting first painted with Rustolem flat gray. The casting then had Brett version 1 chalks applied ( what you see is the third try).

The boiler painted flat black then the chalks. Still not happy with the look (this is version two) so may do another re-try.

JohnM

Awesome work. I admire your creativity!
John

admin

The brickwork is wonderful. Great definition between brick and mortar but very realistic. I like the mill engine, especially the cement base, well done. The weathering on the boiler has me confused. I am not sure what the large splotches represent. Maybe Karl can post a few pics of his boiler. I spoke with Bill Gustaffson recently who has a phd in some sort of industrial revolution mechanical blah, blah, he explained that working boilers were generally not rusty, calcified, or too dirty. They were one of the few things these old boys kept clean because they did not want them blowing up in their faces!

Karl.A

Karl.A

LSNRwyAl

Thank-you John, Brett and Karl.

I am currently working on a scratch build on a chain hoist.

Definitely need a retry/correction on the boiler. As I confessed earlier...there are some fits, stops and restarts in this hobby.

LSNRwyAl

Here is the boiler redone.
Some careful rubbing with paint thinner on a soft piece of wool cloth.
Better I think.

Karl.A

Better I think too Alan, much.


Karl.A

Karl.A

One thing I did on mine was to use black chalk (dry) on the boiler, feathered into and along my rust areas with a soft brush. This toned down some of my harsher rust areas and blended them without changing the boiler base colour, it also produces a nice flat finish.
Black is very intense, you don't need much if you do decide to try a little.

Karl.A

JohnM

The original that you didn't like looked wonderful to me!
John

LSNRwyAl

I have started the chain hoist. I will have it hung from the overhead girder. This is the idea of what I want.

I started with some K&S brass, polystyrene, and chain.

Some brass cut for the head.

Also will need some slings to lift boxes with the chain hoist.
Started with some brown cloth and stain.

Cut and formed. ACC to form the end loops.

I did some trimming - - then stained.

James

Just catching up on this great thread! The boiler looks way better. I too have found that blotting on a dark chalk dry is a subtle way to blend. Are you saying you built all those windows from stock basswood? Awesome.

Too bad SW didn't snag Bill's company - I could see Brett putting out some awesome F scale equipment and kits (one can only dream).

LSNRwyAl

Computer fixed today.
The chain hoist is coming along.

Using some brass and polystyrene I manufactured a hook and pulleys. Then added some chain.

Filled in some gaps with "Green Putty".

Using some "Micro Mark" brass pins made the top hook.


Then we will paint and chalk. These are the paint colours and Rembrandts I will be using.

JohnM

Alan, you are a Wizard - what you are doing is pure magic . . .

John

LSNRwyAl

Well I am back with the report on what has happened since February 07th 2014.
Once I had the hoist made it needed paint. All equipment I have seen in the real world faded fast, especially red.



Then I needed to fabricate the carriage to go on the overhead "H" beam to attach the chain hoist. It took me many days of head scratching to come up with what to use to make the wheels. Finally tried the HO scale wheels sets. Pull the axles and grind/file down the diameter.



This is what I ended up with after building, painting and SWS weathering.



Now that this is done I can build the SWS shed over this area and the mill engine.

LSNRwyAl

It did not upload. More head scratching to make it look as good as the rest of the threads on here.

LSNRwyAl

It did not upload. More head scratching to make it look as good as the rest of the threads on here.

JohnM

Alan, as you can see, it has uploaded just fine. Fantastic work. I can't believe you creativity making the chain fall! That turned out perfect. You mention grey but the engine has a green look to it that I really like. Is the name of the color misleading?

I'm delighted having your expertise critiqueing my attempts on the Shipyard. Thank you for taking the time to look in . . .
Respectfully,
John

LSNRwyAl

The mill engine base colour is "wintergreen" and then I/A wash then the SWS chalking. Thank-you for your kind remarks John.


Any suggestions as to how to place the "roofs" over the mill engine and boiler will be gladly accepted. Currently thinking a lean-to off the roundhouse walls - one over the mill engine then one over the boiler.

Ojaste

Alan,
Just caught up on this thread. I see I'm not the only one who takes time to think about what will look just right. And you have done it right here! Keep it up.

Marty

LSNRwyAl

I am back.
I do tend to think, change my mind, and think some more before doing anything.
I cut some shape into the polystyrene that is to be the "cement" dock and shop floor.
Here is the location I have chosen for the engine, boiler, and water sled.

I felt for a good glue bond I needed to mask to keep the paint off the glue points.

So will use this grey as the base coat colour. Then follow Brett's instructions on the chalks from the manual with the kit.

This is what it looks like painted.

Ans this is with the masking off.

LSNRwyAl

It seems the first two pictures did not load.
Here is try number 2.

JohnM

Alan, thank you for the color info. You sure have a good eye for that, All is looking great!

John

Karl.A

This is coming along extremely nicely Alan. As has been mentioned it's great to see good modellers take the time to make sure things look 'right', even if it means a redo. This makes a big difference to the viewer.

The hoist is a wonderful piece of scratchbuilding, it really came out beautifully. Very nice work.

I'm really looking forward to watching the concrete base develop, thinking and rethinking is definitely paying off.

Karl.A

Jerry

Just getting caught up with this thread. That is some real beautiful work your doing. great coloring and attention to detail.

Jerry

LSNRwyAl

Thank-you all for your kind words. It is greatly appreciated. April is becoming busy with non-railway items so time to continue may be scarce. I will keep at it.

KKarns

Hey Alan, great work here...you wanted thoughts on the roof,...since your building is brick and your hoist is I-Beam, what about I-beam frame with a metal roof to blend with the construction of the hoist. I would think any wood framing might look a bit off...just my 2c....

LSNRwyAl

Thank-you Ken. I am still not sure and your suggestions will be considered fully.

I am a volunteer for a charity. I agreed to work on a new project and it has turned into a 20 hour a week job so this build will be slowed done. This is a problem as I agreed to show this module at a train show April 26th. It will now be shown as "a work in progress" I am afraid. Oh well better a good job that an embarrassment.

After I removed the tape I realized I need the tape for the "seasoning" of chalks etc. therefore the tape will be reapplied.
I have installed wood to represent the demarcation lines between the soil and the concrete pad.



I want to have the building cemented down for the April 26th show therefore I have prioritized that the roundhouse floor must be down next. I have chosen to make it a wood floor as I love the old logging roads roundhouse look. Installing the floor without the building in the way will be much easier.

To bury the tracks I need to raise the floor height. I am using N-scale cork which matches the tie depth. I will put it down with contact cement. On top of that I will be using scale 2 X 12 boards. I will distress, colour/stain, and cut to length the boards before being put down. The pictures are to give you an idea of what I am going to do.


Due to time constrains I may not be able to update further until after the train show.

LSNRwyAl

I have finished the cork sub-floor for the roundhouse. I have started to stain the roof and crane support pillars. I hope to also get some of the wood floor down before the April 26th show. We will see....

The spaces are for the pillars.

Jerry

Alan that looks great. A neat way to get the level high enough so the boards slide over the ties.

N-Scale you said right??

Jerry