O'Neills Fabrication - HO Scale - An in-depth tutorial for building SWSM kits



  • phil,
    i'm getting rid of my true sander in favor of the ultimation sander. i've offered to send it to ed but he hasn't responded. if ed doesn't want it it's available to whoever would like it.
  • Kevin, that would work as well. Phil
  • yes, it works great but you have to be careful cuz it'll eat your board if you let it.
  • easy peasy......
    i started a thread under off topics. true sander give away. jump in fellas.... goes to the first guy that lets me know they want it. (as long as he lives in the lower 48, free shipping too)
  • Kevin, very nice of you to do that.
    Ed, thanks for your comment. I started this thread mainly for the modelers who visit this site but don't comment. I understand their reluctance to comment. However, I wanted to make sure they had all the information they needed to start a SWSM kit even if they don't ask any questions. Phil
  • Phil, you're running a tutorial luxury.

    In order not to spoil Brett's templates, I made photocopies according to sections and the work was much more comfortable.

  • Thanks Jose. A word about copying Brett's templates. Copiers have a tendency to make copies that could be slightly smaller or larger than the original. If this happens, your structure will not be accurate. Be careful when copying. It could cause problems. Phil
  • Agree with Phil. I tried that as well, and stopped for that very reason. I actually did not know that until my wife pointed it out. Of course I did not listen to her at first, but she was correct.
  • I copy mine as well and all these years the copies have made my cuts the wrong dimension. Who am I kidding? It's my cuts.
  • Well, I'm going to check it, because I didn't know.
    Thanks for the warning.
  • I just checked the sizes, and I see them the same.
    I leave the link to the two photos that I have taken, I do not upload the photos here so as not to dirty the thread of Phil.
    The first link is Brett's template.
    The second link is a photocopy.

  • edited November 2020
    I also make copies. Always, I make myself believe that with extra copies, I can always make another build. I know it sounds stupid and I never made another second build from a kit just with the copies, but you never know, you know.... I even keep the empty boxes.....

    What I wanted to say, after you made a copy, hold the original and the copy together against the window. If they match, no problem, if not , you can ajust the percentage, bigger, smaller on the machine.. But I must say, never had problemes with that. Perhaps, in O scale it,s not that important. If something doesn,t fit , it,s not the fault of the copy, but my clumsyness... :wink:
  • Jose, that's a great way to check the accuracy. Looks like you don't have an issue. I didn't want to create an issue, but I've been warned against copying for this reason. For me, I use the original template. Phil
  • I have always made copies of Brett's templates and never had a problem. I always try to keep the original template just in case I screw up.
  • same here
  • The floor frame has dried and it's ready to come off the template. Since I used double-sided tape and there is a chance some glue could have migrated onto the template, I need to take special care in removing the frame from the template.

    As you can see below, I use my razor blade. Please be very careful and don't force it.
    If there is any glue build-up on the bottom side, use your exacto knife to remove it.

    Once I removed the floor frame, I checked its fit on the bottom of the addition. Once I'm satisfied with the fit, I glue the frame to the underside of the addition. Be sure the back of the floor frame is even with the back of the side walls.

    Now, it's time to install the header which will support the addition on the left wall. Do you remember where you put the headers??? Remember, I put them in a medicine container that was labeled. After making some nail holes in the header using Template A, I used the lower two drilled holes to line up the header. The holes should be on top of the header. To aid me, I inserted some drill bits to act as a stop.

    Here is the left wall with the header in place.
    Now, it's time to glue the addition to the left wall. You will use the drill hole at the top of the left wall as a guide for the proper placement of the addition. The hole should be at the top of the back gable. I really like the look of the addition on the left wall and I'm glad I went with the dirty yellow look. It provides a nice contrast to the white wash left wall.
    You will notice I added a sign to the right of the addition door. Brett provides instructions on signs on p. 30 of the instruction manual. However, let me briefly go over how I do signs.
    1. Locate the sign you want to use on the sign sheet provided in the kit.
    2. Think about how you want to use the sign. Is it a rigid sign or one that will blend into the woodwork? In this case, I wanted a rigid sign.
    3. Use an exacto knife and a straightedge and carefully cut out the sign. The straight edge allows me to use other signs on the sheet for alignment.
    4. Once you remove the sign, make sure you have good clean edges.
    5. Because the sign came from white paper, you need to color the edges. One way is to use prismacolor pens to color the edges. I prefer to use a Rembrandt chalk stick and rub the edges. It's hard to make a mistake using this method.
    6. What condition should the sign be in?? Fairly clean, very dusty, slightly rusty, very rusty. In my case, I wanted very dusty. I took the extra chalk I had from the floor frame and using a brush, I dusted the sign.
    7. Glue the sign in place.

    I'll go over alternative weathering as we place more signs on the various buildings.

    Next time: Loading Dock Overhang.

    Thanks for following. Phil
  • In-depth this tutorial certainly is... fantastic work Phill. Both on the build as well on the tutorial. Thanks .
  • Continued excellence in both the tutorial and build....Rick
  • Thanks Rick and Robert. Phil
  • Looking good Phil. I found the double sided tape useful at keeping any stray glue from sticking the work to the template. I'm using a 3M product that will come off reasonably easy if any adhesive sticks to the wood.
  • Thanks Alan for the suggestion. Phil
  • edited November 2020
    Much appreciated Phil. So informative.
    Not to mention that the build is coming together beautifully.
  • Phil, thank you for doing this in depth build thread and tutorial.
    You build is coming along most impressively, and the lessons/photos provided along the way really drive home the process and techniques for those of us who are visual learners.
    I'm following along, learning along the way and thank you for taking the time and effort to present your process so clearly.
    Much appreciated,
  • Thanks Paul and Tom. That's why I am doing it this way. I learn from pictures as well. Phil
  • Great stuff Phil! Doing a superb job on this build.

    With regards to using double sided tape on the is a sound practice and to overcome the sticking issue with folding up the templates, I cover the double sided tape with Scotch Magic tape matte by 3M after I’m done with the build. I have re-used templates for smaller custom projects like railings, decks, etc...the added thickness is minimal.
  • Thanks Ken for the suggestion. I've never heard of that product but will look for it. Great idea.

    Happy thanksgiving Ed and to all the modelers out there. Enjoy your family whether in person or virtually. Stay safe. Phil
  • I have considered laminating them in my 8.5x11 laminating machine. I do this with my cooking recipes, because I am a slob in the kitchen. BBQ sauce all over everything.
  • The only problem is the templates are larger than 8.5 x 11. Phil
  • Kevin, it's going to be hard to take a large template and try to feed it through an 8.5 x 11 laminator. However, I would love to see someone try.

    Happy Thanksgiving to you as well.
Sign In or Register to comment.