The Dr. Grunge Advanced Wood Clinic



  • George...there’s also a couple of texts dealing with castings that are great assets..I think Karl did one and Kevin O’Neill did one....
  • i copied and pasted all of the pertinent posts into a Word doc. 41 pages.
  • Thanks Terry - I have read those. Huge fan of Kevin and the late Brian Nolan
  • kebmo said:

    i copied and pasted all of the pertinent posts into a Word doc. 41 pages.

    Is that emailable?
  • edited September 2018
    yes, its a pdf, if you direct message me your email address i'll send it to you tomorrow.
  • Great Job KKarns!
    I have a question.
    Does both sides of the wooden planks have to be wired brushed?
    I'm doing the HO version of Brass & Iron Foundry and planks are a bit thin to wire both sides which makes them subject to split and break.
  • With HO Scale I generally recommend brushing one side - in most cases I do call this out in the manual although there are times both sides are required, just depends upon the use.
  • if anyone would like this in pdf format, message me your email address and I will send it to you.
  • Bravo for this demonstration.
    Can you send it to me in Pdf ?
    Thank you.
  • check your email.
  • edited April 2019
    i sent it and my gmail says it had a problem with the delivery and will keep trying for 22 more hours. if you don't have it 24 hrs from now let me know and i will send it a different way.
  • my bad. jean, you should have yours, it's pappy's that was messed up and it's because i mis-spelled his email domain. pappy, i'm sending it right now. sorry about that.
  • Ken,
    This is a question, but do not know whether you will receive it here. I have read, printed and studied this advance wood clinic and want to adopt your practices. Your presentation is very clear and convinced me that I would like to follow your approach. Your efforts and greatly appreciated.
    Here is the question:
    When you built the Brass and Iron Foundry, which I am starting, did you do the detail work on the strip wood, board ends at bottom, knot holes etc. before or after the damp brushing?

    I have read most all of your presentations on this forum and your work is amazing. Thank you for sharing.

  • Hey Jim, First off, thanks so much for the kind words here. Secondly, you've picked a great kit to work up.

    I have mentioned many times that I'm of the opinion that the time and effort spent on the wood work defines and sets the stage for the entire build. You brought up the example from The Brass & Iron Foundry however, the methods of course work for any wood structured kit of course, with minor differences. My order of wood detailing is pretty much the same with variations depending on the wood being painted and peeled or just weathered and stained etc. I typically take my stripwood and impart the base grain first then run the wood through steel wool to remove "fuzzies" and this has the added effect of rounding off and weathering the sharp peaks in the wood grain from the wire brush graining. I then stain the wood with just AI for a base coat if I'm going to paint the walls, or AI or chalk if its going to be just weathered wood.

    So lets take the Pattern Shop from The Foundry build. Knowing I was going to do a peeled paint effect, I grained the raw strip wood and removed the fuzzed wood with steel wool. I then stained the wood with AI. I then did the damp brushing with the red color. Once that was done I took each piece of stripwood and rough cut each piece a bit longer than required based on where it was going on the wall template. I then detailed the bottom board ends and added any splits, knots, damage, etc.. prior to gluing the piece down. I went back over the detailed areas and added more stain or chalk as needed to get the grungy appearance I wanted which can be done before or after glueing. Most of the deterioration would have occurred just like this, that is, after the paint was on. The top ends are typically much less weathered and are hard to see due to the overhang. You can however go back and rough up the straight cut upper ends as desired once glued down and trimmed. Also once the boards are all done and on the wall you can go back and slowly build up a little more paint up under the eaves where less weathering would have occurred. This is much harder to do, but not impossible, by treating each board individually with more paint on the top end and harder to control. Plan ahead for rot or damage to boards next to each other and that kind of thing...above all, don't hurry this phase of the build! Hope this long winded response addressed you question adequately...Ken
  • I recently re-reviewed this tutorial and it was very helpful on the treatment of wood. I plan to use this method going forward. Thanks again Ken. Phil
  • Ken, what tools do you use to detail the bottom ends of the boards.
  • This tutorial has been a major difference in my modeling. Many thanks. Rick
  • Ken,
    The very detailed and complete response, is very much appreciated.

    Work on Morton's started this week and after preparing and installing most of the boards for the Pattern Shop, it became apparent that a different approach was needed. Pan pastels were used for the coloration, something that has been successful in the past for non-Sierra West kits. It looked awful.

    Called Brett and he very kindly is sending me another template for a rerun. The damp brushing technique has been problematic as I always seem to put on too much color.
    Then I studied this tutorial...which has been a Godsend. I have started on a new set of boards and your response to my question confirms the approach adopted. So far some boards have been prepared. I am using a sanding stick to round the edges after the damp brushed paint is fully dry. Other details will come next.

    From my perspective this latest addition to your wonderful tutorial closes the loop as regards painted boards and is a logical conclusion to the sequencing you employ. Thank you for the lightening past reply.

    Thank you,

  • No problem Jim, anytime. If you think you have too much paint on the boards after damp brushing, wait until dry to the touch and lay the board down on a flat surface and use fine steel wool in one direction with varying pressure depending on how much paint you want to remove. It will take the paint off the high spots which looks great anyway and would be how the boards would likely weather. With this method the paint peel won't look like its ready to flake off more like it has worn off over time.
  • Ken is dead on point with that…..had a few spots on my boards with too much paint...the 000 steel wool works also evens out the tone a bit...
  • Ken,
    I picked up on steel wool to improve appearance of wet brush application based on Brett's instructions but did not do it with pressure sufficient to remove any of the overly hearvy paint. Will follow your advice. Moving along well with both Pattern and Repair shop. Thank you again.
  • Jim, in addition to the steel wool to remove too much paint I sometimes have success going back and using the wire brush to remove it. Just go over the painted boards as you did to weather them initially.
  • Tom
    Thanks. Will try this too,if need be.Actually on repair shop small boards, initially had too little paint. Second application needed for some.
  • edited January 27
    I started working on the wood floor of a new build the other day but before I began the graining of the stripwood I pulled this old thread up to review. Soooo much good information here...Thanks Ken,er, Dr Grunge...I guess the names were change to protect the guilty..

    Perhaps some of the newer members to the Forum haven't seen this rascal before
  • This thread is a Magnum Opus on weathering wood.

  • geoawelch said:

    This thread is a Magnum Opus on weathering wood.


    hah! very well said!

  • This is a helpful thread. I hadn't seen this one before - I will bookmark it, brew a cup of coffee and start learning!
  • Glad it is proving useful guys...such an important subject and foundation for our builds.
  • Ken I wish I had seen this post before I started my Truck Repair. The edges would not have mattered because of the battens but i sure would have liked to use the tiqunike on the board ends. Thanks Randy
Sign In or Register to comment.