O'Neills Fabrication - HO Scale - An in-depth tutorial for building SWSM kits

KCSTrains

Thanks Robert and Brian.

KCSTrains

Once you have your diorama sized and marked, the first step is to paint it tan, which will be the base for your future scenery. I use a cheap latex paint. Don't worry, the marks you made in the previous step can still be seen.



The next step is to use the track centerline and hand lay track or secure flex track. I always hand lay my track. Since you have spend so much time building this beautiful layout, why cheapen it by using flex track. I know you can doctor flex track up to look real, but just like board on board construction, you just can't beat hand laid track.

I bought my cross ties from Fast Tracks and my rails from Micro Engineering. Before you lay the track, you need to grain and stain it. This can be a monumental task since I will need 76 cross ties, but I came up with a way the speed things up a bit. Here is what I do.

First, the cross ties from Fast Tracks are pretty hard. Therefore, graining it would be pretty difficult if you use the techniques for the board construction. I decided, instead, to automate this a bit.



I used my rotary tool with a circular wire brush. This way I could get a great grain effect with a little effort.



After graining each cross tie, I used steel wood to smooth things up a bit.

Second, instead of using Rembrandt chalk, I used Hunterline stains.



You don't just want one color. I used Dark Brown, Medium Brown, and Tie Brown.

Once the cross ties are grained and stained, it's time to place them on the diorama. First, I need to mark their location, using the already-drawn centerline. I bought a railroad tie template from Fast Tracks, which is used for branch lines. I placed the template on the diorama and pinned it down.



I then marked each tie location with a felt marker.



Now it's time to lay the track. It is recommended to use epoxy to lay the track. I understand this, because you don't want the track to come up with you add scenery later. However, I use Canopy glue to glue the track. Believe me, when I ballast the track, the ties aren't going any where.

Below is my setup for laying the track.



Here is the final product.



BTW, the photo makes it look like the ties curve a bit, but believe me, they are very straight.

Next time: Final markings and the first layer of dirt.

Thanks for following. Phil

Pappy

Great work Phil!!
bty, ties are never straight. a slight curve is ok to make ties a bit more realistic.
Have railroad tacks here and ties are not straight. I quess it depends where you live.

TomMich

Great job Phil. A bit tedious but the end result is nice!

kebmo

anxious to see the next steps, because that's where i've stalled on my project.

KCSTrains

In laying down the first layer of "dirt," I differ from the instructions using a technique suggested by Karl Allison. I use sanded grout and glue.

First, I mix a couple of colors of grout to get the look I want.



You also see a screening/sifting tool I use to sift the dirt onto the diorama.

Second, I take the same glue you use to put down static grass and paint the glue on the surface of the diorama.




I then generously sift the dirt onto the glue and let it dry. (I didn't get a picture of that). Once dry, I take a soft paint brush and brush off the excess. I work on parts of the diorama at a time.

Here is the final product.




You can see in the last picture, the glued on grout forms a nice base for the other scenery material I will put on later. BTW, I use Brett's technique when adding the other layers of scenery.

Next time: Setting the Welding Shop in place

Thanks for following. Phil

admin

The grout is def a popular base layer and Karl is a big fan. Looking very forward to seeing the next steps and the planting of the components!

EmeryJ

I too am using the sanded grout method, but being O scale I mix it about half and half with sifted dirt to get a bit more texture. I may try get one of those small strainers like you are showing. Shaking it on from a spray paint cap covered with one of the wifes stockings gets a bit dusty. Thanks for sharing sir.

Pappy

Hey Phil, I do as will used the grout colors method on all my dioramas for a base coat after a tan paint. I then apply weeds/flowers and other stuff that I grounded up in a blender for other areas for texture then add the turf bushes and other stuff later.
Your doing a great job Phil!!

brownbr

Good start for the base

KKarns

Nice "dirt" work Phil.

KCSTrains

Thanks all. Phil

Joel

Very exciting stage of your project. It all seems to be gelling nicely.

KCSTrains

Thanks Joel.

I've been missing in action, but I decided to come out of retirement and go back into the working world. You guys may think I'm crazy, but my sanity lies with what I love to do. In addition to building Sierra West kits, I love to provide legal counsel to folks, solve complex legal issues, and help a company be legally compliant. You may not like lawyers, especially the ones who advertise all the time, but I'm one of those company attorneys who doesn't create problems, but solves them.

Enough about that. The good thing about working is that I enjoy getting back to the bench on the weekends. Continuing on my O'Neill's build, its time to start placing those structures on the diorama. The first is the main building, which goes where I didn't place any of the grout. The next is the welding shop and deck. Before you do that, you need to do a little scenery work because the welding shop and deck are on stilts.

Before I start the scenery, you need to decide what type of scenery and color you want on your diorama. In my mine build, I wanted a desert scene, so I chose a lot of light colors with very little color. However, with regard to O'Neill's I want a lot more green.

I went through my available scenery and selected what you see in the picture below. You want very fine material and progress to clumps of scenery.



Notice the variety of colors and textures.

When putting down scenery, I start with the grout I used in the first step, followed by very fine Woodland Scenics foam and work my way up to the more coarse material.




BTW I did a very crappy job in the picture, but this scenery will be almost hidden under the welding shop and deck.

Once the scenic material is down, I take a dropper and add 90% alcohol as a wetting agent. This allows the scenic cement to easily flow through the material. Once the alcohol is down, I use a dropper with the scenic cement.



Immediately after this, I place the structure onto the diorama. You will see that I had toothpicks in place to remind me where the four corners of the structure should be. I want to make sure the structure is in the right place.




It's not a bad idea to put a weight on the building to make sure it lies flat on the diorama.

Once the scenery dried, I scrapped away the scenery that extended beyond the building and deck. As I said, it was not my best and I will do a much better job with the scenery in the open areas.




The next step is to paint the sump and glue in the sump grate. I weathered the sump the same way I weathered the concrete dock. I also applied 408.3 to the grate. I will add a bit more grease to the grate as I am finalizing the scene.



Next time: The Driveway and Surrounding Area.

Thanks for following. Phil

Mountaingoat

Glad you're back at the bench. Excellent as always.....Rick

kebmo

this is the fun part. oh wait, they're all fun parts....

brownbr

Nice to see you back to work...on this, not the real work stuff.

admin

Now the real fun begins! Awesome stuff.

KKarns

Great work Phil and nice to get to this stage of the build.

Pappy

Keep it moving Phil, Looking great!!

KCSTrains

Thanks everyone. This is my favorite part. I've already started on the scenery and hopefully I can give you a progress update soon. Phil

kebmo

[gleefully rubbing hands together....]

Joel

So far so good. Really looking forward to placing all the details and creating all the mini scenes

EmeryJ

More excellence Phil. Thanks.

KCSTrains

Ok ... work has been a large hinderance to my crafting time. However, I have made some progress in the scenery work. I haven't been pushing it because this is the step that makes or breaks a diorama. Slow, carefully planned scenery work always pays off.

I'm working on the driveway and surrounding area where the oil tank will go. Here are a few shots of my progress.




I mainly followed Brett's instructions. As you work from each type of scenery material, it's really up to you on how you want it to look. Just remember to start with the smallest and work your way to the largest. If you don't like the look, scape it off and start over.

Also, with regard to the small steps, they were a bit short, so I placed some additional square stripwood to fill the gap. Always be ready to improvise and believe me, you will have a lot of scrap wood to use if you need it.

Next time: Finishing the driveway area and completing the Oil Tank.

Believe it or not, it's been a year since I started this build. I had hoped to finish the build in a year, but life got in the way. No problems - it is a hobby!!! However, I appreciate all the support I have received. This build has had almost 15,000 views. Wow!! There certainly is some interest.

Have patience with me and I will update when I can. Thanks. Phil

brownbr

I always like the scenery phase. Yours is progressing nicely.

KKarns

Looking great Phil.

Robert.G

I get a pretty good idea how this will end.... as A FABULOUS diorama !!!!

admin

Wonderful to see you back at it Phil. Love where this build is going!

brownbr

I've been thinking about your bushes in the corner in the last photo. I think they could use some slight variation in color. Have you ever tried drybrushing these types of bushes? Or how about sprinkling lightly with some leaf dust (made by putting dried leaves in a coffee grinder/blender)?