I found this a nice kit ( they all are), not to big, to work on after the mega Sawmill Project. The only problem, the kit isn't around anymore and so far not on ebay since as long as I am searching for it. So, what does one do in that case....
Build it anyway. It didn't look to complicated so I was able to figure out what was the frame of the walls, or at least what could have been the design of them. I used the photos from the website to get going. ( just personal use !!!)
What the castings are concerned, I have the casting sets 1 and 2 which will provide enough to fill this one. Also leftovers from all the kits build already. There are so many in all the kits. They will come in handy now.
For the rest I'll improvise a bit , but it will be a nice build. I will probably change a bit here and there and give it a personal touch.
So, of we go...
For now, I made all the wall frames...
to be continued..
Comments
The frames were painted, but that was before I decided to paint everything.
The windows are made with very tiny pieces of scale lumber that I cut. I glued these on to mm paper to keep everything square. Then I prepared the glass which comes from a blister package. I sanded the surface to get rid of the shine and to get the glue stick better. Superglue that is.
I altered the dimensions. The shed turned out bigger, a bit higher, three windows at the back... For now. I don't know yet what I will do with the roof. Exciting....not?
soon more..
For the roofs, I'd say tar paper or corrugated. Maybe both if you want the leaning addition to look like it was added later.
On the other hand, the weathering part, that is the chalk treatment,, I sometimes experienced,that the tiny bits of white glue we use, don't always adhere to the chalk, if there is to much of chalk. It loosens sometimes. When I glued a weathered board, I clean the glue that oozed out with some water, but that even diludes the glue more and weakens the adherence. Well not always of course. It is a fine line....
I always do an extra chalk weathering when a wall is finished. Even with sandpaper, xacto knife ,I hit the surfaces when I think there is to much of chalk, stain or other weathering substances on them.
Weathering is a proces of several treatments. It never comes out of one single can or tube.
I am sure, there are as many ways as there are modelers, and every one has his methods.
Like I said in the intro of the build, I will experiment somewhat with methods. I will share with you my findings of course. And if this can set your minds at peace, I do skrew up sometimes...
After the gluing of the boards, I stained the wall with gray alcohol based aniline . ( that's a powder used in restoration of furniture and artworks) but the AI is just as good.
Then a first coat of mat light grey Humbrol lacquer paint. When dry ,after two days, a second coat of mat cream color. The same type of paint.
When completely cured, I used cellulose thinner as a paint stripper. ( do this outside , the fumes, although very little, might irritate you). Depending how much and where you want the paint to be stripped, apply the cell. with a brush and let it flow from top to bottom.
Let dry. During the drying ,the paint will start to wrinkle . When dry, you can brush the surface and wipe away the paint. Repeat if necessary , but this is a fairly aggressive way, so don't flood the thing.
Then I gave accents with water soluble color pencils.
Then a wash with Ed's favorite, very diluted Bitume de Judea.
And to finish , a little bit of pigments , or chalk if you like here and there.
At this stage, it's enough. When all the walls are put together, some more local weathering will. be done.
Terry
What is the equivalent of cellulose thinner in the US?
Now I can start thinking what I'm gonna do with the roof. I need to make a truss , that's for sure.
Since I made the building longer the the original, and the two doors are open, so you can look inside.
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soon more