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Duluth Plumbing

I am a new member and am working on my third Sierra West Build -Duluth Plumbing. Since floquil Depot Buff is no longer available, and some acrylic paint or coloring will most likely be needed to color the walls. I am looking for suggestions regarding paint and techniques to replicate as nearly a possible, the method described in the manual. I have considered using a Createfx driftwood stain followed with pan pastel yellow oxide or yellow ochre shade. But experimented with that and did not like the result. Another approach might be to brace the walls and use an AI solution or a Hunterline stain in conjunction with a pan pastel.

Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Comments

  • Mountain2230,

    Give Brett a call and see what he recommends as a substitute. 1-972-618-5563

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • According to a color conversion chart put out by Model Rail Hobbiest:
    Model Master color MM 4878 is a match,
    Vallejo-MicroLux 3 parts 71.033 and 2 parts 71.027 is a match,
    MODELflex 16.81 is a near match

    Just passing along the info

    Terry
  • When I built mine I followed the manual, but I just used a craft paint generic 'light tan' as the base coat, I think I added 25% water to make it more of a wash and absorb better. This is just a base coat. For the top coat if I recall correctly I used a craft paint yellow, either 'bright yellow' or 'sunflower yellow'...‚Ķ
    In order to dull this down slightly and give it an aged faded appearance I gave the walls a wash with a very dilute craft paint 'sandstone'.

    Very basic colours, good results.

    Karl.A
  • Welcome aboard. Looking forward to your build.
  • I appreciate all the suggestions and they have focused my thinking. I sent Brett an email and looked at Model Master colors. MM has an enamel sand 1706 that would work perhaps.
    Karl A. I assume you braced the walls? That is my usual practice and
    would probably do it anyway regardless of enamel or water base.

    Thank you all.
    Jim Kendig
  • Bracing the walls is a good idea, just to be safe when using a water based colour.

    However, and this is a basic practice for any laser cut kits/walls/panels, etc... generally.

    Warping (which I an presuming you are concerned about) happens when moisture is applied to only one side of a piece of wood. The side which accepts moisture swells and the opposite 'dry side' does not, thus creating warpage. This can be combated later with various 'pressing techniques' , however the best/easiest way to do this is to colour both sides of the sheet at the same time, even if not eventually seen.
    That way both sides expand equally and then shrink equally as the moisture evaporates from both sides.
    Obviously scribed siding will not react equally on both sides, but any effects will be minimalized.
    Paint/stain/wash both sides, leave under a book to dry... all will be fine.

    You say this is your third SierraWest build, what were the other two ? If you have pics we'd like to see them. If not, it would still be nice to know with which kits you started.

    Thanks for jumping in and joining us here.

    Karl.A
  • A number of years ago I got a combo kit consisting of Line Side Storage Shed and Tool Shed. It was started and abandoned as I needed to build major components of the new narrow gauage Colorado mining country layout. I also was at that time not really up to board on board modeling, though that has changed now Deer Creek Mine and the Iron and Brass Foundry were purchased earlier this year and it made sense to finish the earlier small kits first, which I just did. I do have pics, but my work in no sense matches the standards achieved by modelers who post on this Forum. And in the mean time picked up Duluth Company on eBay. Duluth appears to be a less extensive build than the mine or the foundry, so I am doing it next.

    I have studied your illustrated primers on painting and weathering detail parts. While I am still learning the techniques you and Mr O'Neil developed there is still a lot to learn. Very well done. I really like the way Brett has incorporated detailing and diorama design into his kits like none other.

    I brace bass wood walls on most kits even when not called for by the creator. I find that if braced one can use water based paints and Alcohol based stains without any warping problem. I use either heavy iron weights or fire bricks on braced walls until dry.
    Your input is greatly apreciated and will let you know how this proceeds.

    Jim
  • Jim, never hesitate to post pictures of your build. We are all different builders with different talents. I, for one, appreciate the feedback because it makes me a better builder. I'll never put the detail into a build that Ken puts in, but that's my preference and I am very satisfied with my builds. However, I do enjoy seeing how crazy (in detail) some of these builds get. I never stop learning. Phil
  • Jim, as Phil says there is definitely no 'standard' here on the forum.
    The forum is here for us all to share builds of SierraWest kits, to help each other when needed, and also to learn from other builders and most importantly to enjoy the finest kits available.

    The forum isn't a competition, its a camaraderie…. there is always someone we all can learn something from and there is always someone else we can help. We are all somewhere in the middle.

    Karl.A


  • I made a decision to color the walls in a manner other than my initial thinking or as suggested by Karl (whose approach I intended to follow). I got to the work bench yesterday and embarking on the familiar decided to brace the walls and use alcohol and leather dye ( 16 to 1 mix of 99% A / black and brown dye ) as a base and followed by pan pastels -raw umber and burnt sienna in various shades. I will overcome bashfulness about the comparative quality of my modeling and post pictures of my shed builds and Duluth as I go along. Karl and Phil's encouragement in this respect is appreciated. But first I will need to figure out how to reduce the size of my images as described in a a forum article.
  • There is a program called XnView that is free and can be found on the internet. There is a post by Bill that explains how to use it.
  • We look forward to enjoying the pics Jim.

    Karl.A
  • I found that if you take a picture with an Iphone and send it to an e-mail address, it will ask you what size you want. I typically pick the medium size which is about 150 which is perfect for posting. Phil
  • Thanks. I use Android, but downloaded Xnview for PC. I take pic on Android phone or tablet upload to Google Photos and download to PC. Very simple actually. Android does not seem to have a comparable feature that I have found.

    .
  • Just finished the main walls, and want to share them for comment. I braced the walls and used a mix of 99% rubbing alcohol and black and dark brown leather dye as a base stain. Added additional color with various raw umber and burnt sienna shades. The windows and doors are stained with Hunter Barn Red and some burnt sienna tint pan pastel. I had difficulty with the nail holes. The spacing of my ponce wheel points is too wide and did get two to a board. Probably should have done them individually. While grain was added with steel and brass brushes, attempts at making warped and lifted board ends was very limited. Found this process difficult in HO scale and did not want to bugger up the beautiful milled walls. All comments and suggestions welcome. 120181024_143017
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  • In this kind of modeling top notch kits, there are no short cuts in doing things properly as you can see with the nails. Just take the time for every detail. You won't regret it when your build is finished. !!!
    Looking good so far.
  • Superbly weathered and colored. I love the natural mottling and variation. Thanks for sharing with us!
  • Happy to see you 'jumping in here' to share your build...we all become better builders by the sharing of others...looking good
    Terry
  • Very nice work. Colors look perfect.

    -Steve
  • Wonderful start Jim! The wood detailing looks great as do the windows and doors. May want to have a door or two slightly open just for effect...particularly along those long straight walls. Beautifully done!.
  • Positive comments are much appreciated. Lesson learned about taking one's time and not relying on quick fix pounce wheel. I will try to fix a door or two in partially open position.
  • Off to a good start. Should turn into a fine build. Kudos on the door hardware
  • Great shots of those walls Jim, very nicely done, as with Bryan I also noted the well done door hardware.
    I always loved the design of the freight doors in this kit.

    Karl.A
  • I'm looking forward to you putting these walls together. Phil
  • Well... have done that and part way through with roof and flashing. Leaving for the Fine Scale MRR Expo and will not post again for a few days. Very gratified and encouraged by all the kind comments!
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