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Gluing craftsman kits

Having spent my modelling life soldering brass, or gluing PVC with MEK (I model mostly British outline), wooden kits are a bit of mystery. Now I know it's nothing new to most North American modellers.
So - how does one glue these kits together - I assume cyano is a bit of overkill?

Regards

Neil B, the newbie to all this

Comments

  • edited June 2011
    Hi Neil and welcome aboard!
    I think superglue is overkill for most of the building process. A lot of us use some type of waterproof glue. Titebond III is a good one. Elmer's makes a waterproof carpenter's glue as well.
    It needs to be waterproof so that when you weather the wood with waterbased paints or different washes, the glue won't break down.
    I use Formula 560 Canopy glue most of the time. It looks a lot like regular Elmer's white glue, but it's thicker and it's waterproof but mostly becuase because it sets up quicker. You can find it at most hobby shops and online:
    http://www.amazon.com/ZAP-Formula-560-Canopy-Glue/dp/B0006O8EVM
  • Hi Neil,
    I use Aileen's Tacky glue, Formula 560, and CA for some metals, as well as Titebond III, these all come into play, but I use the Aileen's I get at Michal's arts and craft stores the most. Clear drying is always good. I like the Aileen's because I can still position the pieces a bit before it sets up. I love the Formula 560 for windows, although on Brett's kits I tam going to try to use the clear window material sheets that come in the kits.

    Todd
  • edited June 2011
    Generally I always use just regular wood glue.

    When I'm feeling impatient, (most of the time) I'll add a drop or two of 'cyano....' to instantly hold larger things together, (like walls or roofs) while the wood glue is curing. I find this much better for me personally than physically holding things together for ten minutes while the wood glue dries. Especially on a 24 or 48 build.

    It takes a good prolonged soaking of regular wood glue to disolve and break a bond after it has fully cured. I use this method when scratch building repetative parts, such as corbels to separate them.
    But, I've rarely had a problem with things de-glueing due to simple weathering and washes.

    Remember, water RESISTANT is different to water PROOF, soak/wet it long enough and it will come apart, dependant on the glue used, but that will take alot of moisture.

    The best advice I can give is to use the recommended glues in the manual. Those specific methods and products have been tried and tested over many years, by many modellers, with consistantly excellent and dependable results.

    Karl.A
  • Hi Neil
    I live in the UK and have always used Anita's Tacky Glue obtained from Hobbycraft or The Range - both have stores all over the place. It comes in a very handy dispenser and grabs within a couple of minutes and dries clear. It's always a problem to overcome the description in the States to actually find what is meant or obtainable over this side of the pond - Isopropyl Alcohol was one that used to defeat me until l went into the chemist and he just said oh you mean what we call Surgical Spirit - l still don't know for sure if it's correct but the main thing is it works with the chalks etc!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Alan
  • I use alcohol to dissolve the Elmer and wood glues. It works pretty quickly and doesn't seem to affect the wood and paint. As for glues, I've found that the Titebond dark wood glue is great for gluing pre-stained wood pieces. It also works great to make "tar" beadings around smokejacks and chimneys. No painting required once it has dried. Sorry, I'm away from my workbench or I'd send some photos as examples.
  • Scotch Quick Dry Adhesive is my glue of choice! It is low cost ($3 or $4) and easily found at most home centers. Dries Clear, acid free, tacks very well, nice applicator tip, and is bulletproof. If you try it you will see.image
  • edited April 2012
    Hello everyone,
    Just started building Crafty kits, but I've got lots of glue (super glue gel, 560, micro glaze, and blar blar blar) but this is my favorite. image

    My wife says that when my glue collection catches up to my paint collection i,m in trouble... lol

    Happy building
  • I use the gorilla wood glue also. It works great.
  • I USE A FAST DRYING WHITE GLUE I SHIP IN FROM AUSTRALIA CALLED RAPI-BOND.
    BEEN USING IT FOR OVER 10YRS WITH GREAT RESULTS.
  • Is there someone over here who has some experience with Aleene's wood glue ?
    It says: super strong, heat and water resistant would this be a good glue for a sierra west kit ?

    DJ
  • I have used elmer's weatherproof wood glue (name has changed so many times) for over 25 years so that's what I recommend. It has never let me down.
  • Brett I know, but for now Elmer's glue is a hard to find item in the Netherlands and I found the Aleene's wood glue so I thought that it might be a good replacement. So I thought there maybe was someone who had some experience with it.

    DJ
  • The bane of the overseas modeler for sure, sourcing supplies. If you try the Aleene's please let us know how it worked for you!
  • I have used the Tacky glue and did a good job holding. Is Aleene's wood glue waterproof and stainable? If so you should be ok.

    Marty
  • I also have used the Aleene's Tacky glue. I liked it because it sets up fast, but living in the desert, in the summer, it set up to fast for me. I have not had any problems with it during staining process, painting etc. It worked better for me than the Aleene's wood glue. I now use the glue from Northeastern Scale Lumber, their Flamingo Glue. It sets up fast, and no problems with stain etc.

    Steve
  • Never used the stuff myself but found references online that say Aleene's Wood Glue is sandable, paintable and water resistant. Note that is not the same thing as waterproof so far as I know. Try it on some wood scraps and see if you like it, then let us know your results.
  • Thanks Brett, Marty, steve and mike for all the comments.
    Sometimes its really hard to find a product on this side of the pound.

    I tried Aleene's tacky but I found that the consistency of the glue is to thick and sets up to fast, but I like it for scenery.

    what is the difference between waterproof and water resistant ?

    After more search on the web I found this: http://www.silverlinetools-shop.nl/p/42316:c:3325_3326_3327/elmers/elmers-lijmen/houtlijmen/houtlijm-max-118-ml/
    Its waterproof and stainable, but is it the same as brett mentioned in his manuals.
    It says that the glue contains wood fibers ?

    DJ
  • Thats the same glue i've been using.
  • DJ - Yep, that's what they are calling it now... and what I currently have on the shelf. Elmer's changes the name every few years but it seems to still basically be the same stuff over the years however.
  • Someone correct me if I'm wrong in this case but water resistant means the glue can stand up to some degree of brief exposure to water (i.e. while using paints with water as their solvent) while waterproof means you could submerge the joint and the glue will not dissolve. http://www.ask.com/question/what-is-the-difference-between-waterproof-and-water-resistant
  • Thanks Marty and Brett.

    Mike I think I know what you mean so never use it for balasting that you maybe want to chance

    DJ
  • Hi Neil and welcome aboard. Please be active and show us what you are doing. I am on my first "build" and profiting greatly herein.

    I have three brass O scale train projects from the UK, only on of which I have begun. I also bought a substantial assortment of solders with various melt points and assorted fluxes.

    Respectfully,
    John
  • love the gorilla wood glue- that's what I use for any wood bits- sets up nice and is really strong. but i don't like their ACC - takes forever to set up, even if it is the equivalent of "gap filler". For ACC nothing beats the P.M. Hansen products. But more and more I use 5 minute epoxy for allot of things- something Brett stresses in his white metal kits I notice.
  • Elliot turned me on to Titebond III for gluing wood. It is great.

    Jaime
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