edited January 2016 in Painting Castings
Has anyone tired using Vallejo Model Color on the resin castings? I tried it recently on another kit and was very pleased with how it performs. It loads up on the brush nicely and there is essentially no waste. The paint is dense enough that you can get a very fine "point application. I don't have a lot of experience with craft paints on fine details, though they do have the advantage of being very cost effective. I have looked at the thread and it was very well done. I even have the suggested colors. It may come down to which material I prefer to use, though I will try it on some other castings first! I believe it will probably perform similar to the recommended Reaper Miniatures paints. Thoughts?


  • I have a ton to say on this subject but will save most of my comments for upcoming videos I am working on. Reaper is a much, MUCH better paint for out purposes. Vallejo is a wonderful product but is a vinyl based acrylic paint. It is the vinyl that produces the "sheen" when worked. This has been discussed by many in our hobby over the years. My techniques require after painting processes that will bring the vinyl shine out in the Vallejo. Reaper in not vinyl based. I have spent a considerable amount of time with the folks at Reaper including the owner Ed Pugh and have received quite an education in acrylic paints. For now I strongly recommend not stocking up on Vallejo paints. I will have some great information on Reaper paints coming very soon....
  • Most of my paints are Vallejo with some Reaper. I'm satisfied with the results, but always open to new ideas.
  • Glad you happy with your vallejo paint Bryan... Your modeling quality certainly attests to the fact that you know what you're doing with them!
  • Thanks Brett.

    Do you know what the difference is between the Reaper regular line vs their high density line? I was looking into them some more because it's been a while since I looked at them.

    All of the Reaper colors I have now are metallic and I'd like to try some of the other colors to see what I think of them.
  • The Reaper HD line provides dense pigment coverage like vallejo without the worry about a plastic "sheen" appearing from the vinyl in the vallejo. The regular Reaper line is more translucent (by design). I use both with excellent results and am very happy with the quality and massive selection of colors. I am working on a list that will be very helpful in selecting colors from Reaper.
  • I have experienced, negatively I might add, the "sheen" that develops with the Vallejo paints when I work them as Brett describes.. I look forward to a nice quality, predictable, and versatile paint line and sounds like Reaper is just that...Ken
  • Did you discuss Vallejo airbrush or metalic paints? Are the vinyl also?
  • I do not want to be a spokesman for vallejo in any way. They make a super quality product that modelers have used successfully for many years. If you use vallejo and are happy with the results by all means continue! For my weathering techniques they are not suitable. This was brought to my attention many years ago by Kevin O'Neill. He switched from Floquil to vallejo and was not happy with the shine that appeared on his details after weathering them with chalk and alcohol. This is why when I switched away from Floquil (happily before they were pulled from the market) I moved to craft store paints. Reaper paints perform way better than craft store paints without the vallejo sheen.
  • Good commentary, thanks to all for the input. The background here is that I am a custom painter and an airbrush dealer. One year at I-Hobby I was given a 75 color set of Model Air, and a smaller set of Model Color to try out. These both sat for a time and I have recently finally tried them. If the consensus is that they are not suitable for this type of project, I don't feel the need to rediscover that for myself. I will try them on castings like 55 gallon drums and other things that are to appear in "new" condition and see how they work there. I've also bought the recommended Reaper Miniatures paints, and will await the forthcoming list of their recommended colors.
  • Brett has a general guide to Reaper colors already posted here:

    If anyone has experimented with other colors of ink a similar list of colors/brands would be useful.
  • I filled the matal colors already, and today I was taking a stab at other colors but since Brett said (above) he was working on a list I figured I'd wait. I also have plenty of craft paints on hand. Thanks!
  • Dang it. I went online to order just a few colors to paint a bulldozer. 33 bottles later...

    Don't forget to get the Adamantium. It's on Brett's list. Kevin turned me on to it years ago. It looks like wrought iron.
  • If you can wait hang in there to order any Reaper. Just saying...

    That adamantium black makes an incredibly realistic oil stain...
  • Sounds like a hint. Two hints actually! I'll wait. I can't start anything for a couple of weeks anyway. Getting ready to head off to the Amherst show in Springfield MA next week.
  • I have slowly migrated from craft paints to the Vallejo Model Color paint because it goes on the castings very easily especially with a little water on the brush. I guess I haven't noticed the sheen because I apply chalks to just about everything I paint. I'm sure the chalk gets rid of the sheen. I also have the Reaper metal paints and absolutely love them, especially as a dry brush over flat black. In view of the comments in this section, I will definitely move towards the other Reaper colors as I use up the Model Colors.

    Whether you use Vallejo or Reaper, I found a great paint bottle holder for $20 which works very well. Phil

  • I like that. Keeping things organized is kind of a bitch for me, epsecially when you have so many types of paint. For me: Craft, Scalecoat, Floquil, Polyscale, Modelmaster, Tru-Color, Star Brand, Tamiya, Vallejo and now Reaper, not to mention those tubes of oil and acrylic! My shelves are starting to look like the aftermath of an earthquake in a California art supply store!
  • The hardest part of this organizer is putting it together. It's laser cut and tight, but once put together I seriously doubt it will come apart. Phil
  • I like that organizer a lot.
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