Twin Mills staining

Ojaste

I was looking through the Twin Mills Construction Manual and it mentions using a water-based stain based on PolyScale paints. The kit was developed in the early 2000's and there had been updates to products and processes for colouring strip lumber. I was wondering if anyone have used any other new techniques to stain the lumber? For example, dye based stains, acrylic paints or something else.

Marty

BrianM

Marty,

I'm on the road on business so I do not have my notes handy. However, if my memory serves me correctly, at Brett's EXPO 2013 clinic he taught us attendees how to "stain" strip lumber by first texturing/distressing the wood, then scraping dust from one or more appropriate color(s) pastel chalk randomly over the strip wood pieces using a single-edge razor blade. The texture (fine vs. coarse) of the chalk dust was readily controlled by the angle of the blade against the chalk stick. This was followed by brushing the chalk powder into the wood grain and blowing off any surplus. It was simple, quick and resulted in some really realistic variations in color, shade and "aging". During the clinic Brett told us that he found this method gave much better management over color and shade variations on strip wood than trying to sprinkle/randomly spread powdered chalk.

Hopefully some of the "old hands" will chip in with more help.

Good luck!

Ojaste

Thanks Brian,

Sounds like an option, but if think it would be tedious for the Twin Mills 1028 feet of strip wood.

Bill

Hi Marty-
I can relate to the daunting task ahead you.

Personally, I think the method outlined in the manual is still the most efficient in terms of time and quality. I would suggest using quality acrylics (like PolyScale) over regular craft store bottled paint for one reason. The cheaper ones seem to separate a bit more than the better ones.
Also, some of those bags will have LOTS of strips and I wish I would have rotated and mixed up the stain solution more often than I did during the soaking period. Large clumps of boards piled up together and soaked for an extended time in separated color. The result was a pinkish hue on a batch. Fortunately, that batch was hidden by the white peeling paint so it worked out in the end.

If you are really wanting to try something other than the recipe in the manual, you might want to go with a shoe dye and alcohol bath. Mix up a solution of it in some deep aluminum containers from the dollar store and drop in the strips for various lengths of time (30 seconds to a few minutes--some even longer). It will speed up the process considerably. But, what you lose with that method are the boards that end up with a grungy "mottled" look which only results from soaking. And those boards end up being some of my favorites for added character. Personal preference really, but again, the method from the manual is still sound.

Hope that helps. I'm looking forward to your build of this kit, so please make sure to post your progress!
Bill

Karl.A

The method really isn't too tedious at all Marty. It goes quite quickly when you get going on it, plus you will have several different finishes and effects you will be doing for the different aspects of the kit to break the process up. It will also be done over an extended period of time as you work through the manual.
I just used the same method on the O scale sawmill, which is comparable, twice. It really moves right along and the results were very satisfying.

On the other hand, the polyscale paints should still be available for some time to come online, several suppliers still have stocks so you could stick with that. This is definitely a great method that has resulted in many best of show awards for this incredible kit and it's builders.

I'll be looking forward to following along with your build whichever path you take. As Bill says, and as you know, it's a lot of wood so no method is going to be 'quick'.
The best results will come from taking your time and not trying to rush and/or cut corners. The danger of this will be a resulting structure with little variety and interest in colour. Spend the time it needs to get the best result, regardless of which method.

Karl.A

Ojaste

Bill, Karl thanks for the feedback. One of the challenges I have is getting any of the right colours of PolyS paint here in Toronto and it can't/won't be shipped across the border. The supplies are tapped out for the most common colours and is forcing me to look at alternatives.

I like the Hunterline dyes and will experiment with them. How about using the Higgins inks (I.e. Brown) as a substitute? Can artist's paint (Micheal's basis) used as a substitute?

I have not read too far ahead in the construction manual, but I did not see any mention of colouring the strip wood during the build. I like the chalking method and it might work if I colour the wood as I need it. I need to think about that.