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2 part epoxy

i've made no secret about my dislike of using 2 part epoxy. that being said, with me having a sawmill kit with my name on it, i realize that with all the machinery, i am going to need to embrace the epoxy. can one of you guys please give me some instruction into the best way of applying the epoxy without getting it all over the place. and the best time to apply it, because my experience with the product hasn't been neat or controlled and it needs to be. thanks in advance for any insight into this sh*tty but necessary adhesive.

Comments

  • I don't remember the last time I used epoxy to build a kit. I have it but I've managed to avoid using it.

    I use loctite super glue Ultragel for most metal fastening applications.

    I discovered something else by accident. If you use a drop of Ultragel and a drop of Elmer's glue all on top of it it seems to bond quickly over a larger area like epoxy.

    It works for me. Experiment and it might work for you.
  • thanks mitch, i have loctite gel. maybe i'll give that a shot for the machinery. in the meantime though,, i have to put two tractors back together. do you think it will work on the resin castings?
  • Sure. I do a lot of things without thinking about it. I must use it on the resin castings too.

    I suggest you might take a couple of resin castings you have around, like two barrels, and glue them together and judge the results.

    With larger castings you might try the Elmer's glue all and supergel combination. You should hold the pieces together for 20 seconds? then let go. It works for me.
  • edited April 3
    I can I only tell you what I do, maybe it will help. I squeeze out the 2 parts of epoxy close together on a sheet of wax paper and then mix together with a toothpick. I then wipe off the toothpick and use it to apply the epoxy. I use the epoxy that comes in 2 separate containers, not the syringe plunger type. I got my epoxy at Hobby Lobby, can only find the plunger type in hardware or building centers around here.
    I find that blackened metal doesn't glue together well with CA (at least for me) and I much prefer epoxy for that. I've had a few pieces break apart with CA and have had to sand the blackening off to get good adhesion.
  • The key for me has been working with a small batch of epoxy....mix just what you need....apply less that you think you will need for the area to prevent ooze out.....the tooth pick method Jim speaks of works well...less is usually more with epoxy....and you don't accidently glue your fingers together....
  • i guess i just find working with epoxy to be terribly messy and a pain in the ass.
  • Kevin, I'm with you on epoxy, it's easy to make a mess and get it all over everything. I find it necessary however to glue some things together. I have not had a lot of luck using CA. It just doesn't seem to hold for me. I use the toothpick method as described. A little goes a long way. I also find it easier to get a quicker bond if I wait a minute or two before applying it to let it start to set up a bit.
  • TomMich said:

    Kevin, I'm with you on epoxy, it's easy to make a mess and get it all over everything. I find it necessary however to glue some things together. I have not had a lot of luck using CA. It just doesn't seem to hold for me. I use the toothpick method as described. A little goes a long way. I also find it easier to get a quicker bond if I wait a minute or two before applying it to let it start to set up a bit.

    i know. the method i've always used was squeeze a little of both out on a post it, mix it with a toothpick and then grab another toothpick and apply it; it's still always a big mess and i always end up squeezing out way more than i need. so its a big waste. i dunno, i just hate working with the stuff. earlier today i took loctite ultra gel and glued the bottoms of two resin barrels together and i tested it about an hour ago and it seems like a strong bond. maybe i'll just head over to ace and pick up a couple more bottles of it. just so i have it.


  • Glad you tried it.

    If you use the white glue then use Elmer's glue all and not the school glue or something else.
  • There are situations where the epoxy works best. There will always be excess with the epoxy but you will get good at estimating how much you need.

    One such situation will be that double husk saw frame. Blacken and polish the metal then file the area where 2 parts will meet…be precise here. Test fit. Mix and apply epoxy and secure the pieces. Give it a couple minutes then you can pick off any extra that oozes out.
  • I heard to use epoxy on white metal parts on quite a few other Forums over the years
  • yeah, epoxy is a pia to use. BUT.... Cyanoacrylate is a very poor adhesive for white metal to white metal bonding, no matter what you mix it with for long term stability. Epoxy properly applied will outlast your grandchildren! I have models I built over 25+ years ago and the Cyanoacrylate bond has degraded.
  • I use a certain amount of Epoxy in every build I have done. In the appropriate application, as described already, it can’t be beat.
  • oh i use it. i just don't like it.
  • Hah! I am not sure anybody likes it!

    One thing I have found is fresh epoxy seems a bit easier to handle. Stuff you've had on your shelf might be more difficult to use.
  • I find that the easiest way to apply it is to use a pin. Mix the epoxy then just take a straight pin and it will pick up a very small amount place where you need it.
    You don't need a lot it will bond perfectly and no mess.

    I think one of the problems is people think they need more than they do.

    Jerry
  • Very well stated Jerry! Just the tip!
  • thanks jerry. i don't know why i didn't think of using a pin. i'll have to give that a try.
  • If you are doing multiple glue ups...and have a syringe with a metal needle tip....it works well...applies small amount with control...and the stuff in the syringe doesn't cure as fast....
  • edited April 16
    Epoxy may take a little extra time,
    But then again, doesn't everything we do.

    It's the best adhesive for the metal/metal situation.

    It gets easier, less of a hassle over time and the more you use it, like everything.

    Yes, a one-off bond is a bit of a chore, but when you are building something like the sawmill machinery, or workshop machines or even the metal tractor from Bluesky you get used to it and it just works so well.
    Even a one off joint isnt so bad, you just need patience.

    Brett's instructions in the manuals will guide you through the use, such as waiting until its "stringy" before you apply and make the bond, leave it alone once you put it together and dont 'wiggle' it. Also let it get to the rubbery stage and you can cleanly remove any excess/ooze with a tooth pick.

    A couple of extra tips for you with Epoxy...

    1) If you microwave the two parts for 10 seconds it will make the two parts thinner/more watery before mixing.
    2) If you get 'sticky' fingerprints or areas on the parts just let it set and the rubbing alcohol we use on a cloth (or Q-tip) will dissolve it and clean it off after your joint is set.

    As has been said previously, I also, apply a drop of each part on a post-it, mix with a toothpick and apply with a pin.

    Epoxy takes a little patience to learn, but, it's still quicker than building something twice.


  • As Dave Revelia use to say. I can teach you how to do it. But you still need to have the patience!!

    Jerry
  • I just did a one off as Karl said for the "glass" top for a gas pump. Squeezed out a drop about the size of a pencil point of the epoxy. I then did the hardener. I always like to do the hardener second. If I get to much hardener it just sets faster.
  • well, heheheh.....
    as to the virtues of 2-part epoxy; well i gotta say.... i had one helluva time getting two parts of the cat (tractor...i'm not torturing animals) apart. they'd been epoxied for months, but after the disaster with the two tractors, i needed to remove this piece (brett is sending me a replacement) because, due to its size it would be impossible to get all of the old epoxy off of it. i had to jury rig a way to soak it in alcohol for a few days to weaken it. the alcohol evaporated before the joint weakened twice. i am impressed.
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