mineral spirits method

hey fellas, as you know, i'm still a newby at this and need a little advise. i'm building an abandoned 2-stall outhouse for the rear of norton's fish camp. (idaho hotel) two days ago i hit my siding boards with mineral spirits and let it dry out in the garage. about an hour ago i hit it with the mineral spririts again.
my question is two-part:
1. should i let the mineral spirits completely dry for a couple of days before painting?
2. when i paint the boards do i paint for full coverage?

any help here will be greatly appreciated. i tried googling the answer and all i got was kathy millat using terp.
the four walls are framed out and aged and i want to start on the siding.


  • edited April 2020
    When I did mine, I applied mineral spirits. Once that coat did not glisten (just a few minutes) I applied another coat. When that coat didn't glisten I applied a coat of paint. Once it was dry to the touch (15-20min) applied another coat. Once that was dry to the touch, go at it with the tape.

    I would take several boards at a time...about the width of the scotch tape. Press it on firmly, smooth up and down a couple times then remove. If I still wanted to take off a little more I did it as a spot treatment.
  • thanks bryan, i'm heading downstairs....
  • And if you want a certain accent in the peeling, rub the tape with a toothpick.
  • In the above referenced method are you guys using water based paint or solvent based paint?
  • In the above referenced method are you guys using water based paint or solvent based paint?


  • admission: i applied two 'coats' of mineral spririts and two coats of acrylic paint. like a dope, i left the boards alone until the following morning, and by that time it was too late. the tape wouldn't lift anything so i threw the boards away,grained and stained 16 more, detailed them (saw banding and knots), and now they're gonna sit on the bench untl tomorrow night. tomorrow night i will hit them with 2 coats of mineral spirits and then paint. and i won't wait until the next day to hit them with the tape. stay tuned......
  • Pick those boards up again out of the trash bin and work them with an X-acto knife. Works fine.
  • Wet them a bit with water after the exacto also. Let water soak in for a minute or 2, dry with papertowel and hit with tape.
  • Indeed, the water will loosen the paint from the wood just enough to let the tape do it,s work. In modeling, there is NO waiste. :smile:
  • That is very helpful and encouraging! There is always a way to salvage something. The uglier the better.
  • here's how my boards turned out:
    outhouse boards1
    outhouse boards 2

    and here are the outhouse walls sided:

    outhouse walls sided

    i followed bryan's method and detailed the boards, then hit them with the silverwood and after that dried i hit them with mineral spirits twice, and white wash twice, then i "atacked" them with scotch tape.

    i'm building the doors out of 1x4s witha 2x6 bracer using the same method as the siding boards......
    i'm only gonna do the interior of one side, because i don't want both doors hanging open, but one of them will be.
  • Hey Kevin, the peeled paint looks great
  • Peeling paint perfect.
  • thanks steve and rick.
    i never would have expected a damn outhouse to be a weeklong project, but that's what it's shaping up to be.
    i got the dividing wall (between the stalls) and one commode done. not gonna do the other one cuz the door's gonna be closed.
    i painted a styrene tube black for the stink stack.
  • Kevin,

    The student becomes the teacher! Great looking boards. Thanks for asking for more information about this method. We will all benefit from it.

    Later, Dave S.
  • cool, but credit where credit is due. i got the information trom bryan.
  • Well Kevin, as you become a more proficient modeler and you want to do all details and proper finish, it takes longer to build what you htought was a simple model.
  • I agree with that statement. Nice work on the peeling paint. We must not forget that these photos always show a much bigger picture than in reality. So , well done Kevin.
  • Keb, best I've ever seen. UNFAIR!
  • Looks great Kevin.
  • steve, robert, eric and tom, thanks.
    eric, i don't believe you for a minute.... :)
  • Keb, I'm rarely ever lying when it comes to praise. Believe it! Besides, how could it be better?
  • the four walls ready to be glued, a partition wall to separate the stalls with a sh*tter glued to it, some cedar sheets for the shingles, the concrete pad the outhouse will sit on, and the foam base the concrete will be embedded in, with lots of tall grass and weeds around it.outhouse walls ready for glue
  • Your walls came out great. This will be a treat when finished. Rick
  • Looks really good.
  • Mold to the north!
  • the walls glued together and on the base.outhouse walls glued together 1

    outhouse walls glued together 2
    outhouse walls glued together 3
    outhouse walls glued together 4
    next up is the roof, and then i start with the grass/weeds on the base.
  • Turned out GREAT!
  • That's coming out really nice..….great entry for that peanut butter jar lid category....
  • thanks tom.
    rick, that's what i was thinking when i was gluing it together, 'cept that's on a different forum......
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